Amplifier install on 2016 CX-5 Bose with PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter

No problem Jrod. The hardest part was just trying to cut a hole big enough for the 4 gauge power wire to go through that thick rubber grommet. If I were try it again, I wouldnt have used a knife. Instead I would used a drill or a spade bit to make a hole in the grommet. Just be careful not to damage the other wires. Then you can use a coat hanger to fish the wire through the firewall.

That sounds like a good plan. Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
Last edited:
Alright guys, let's say I want to be completely lazy and get the kenwood sw11-it's draw is 8.5 amps and comes with all its own wiring. If I just use an add a fuse is there any need to go directly to the battery?
Also the power wire that comes with it is only a 10 watt fuse.
Page 8 gives the specs first page has install details.

http://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20130404104400/Manuals/113/113KSCSW11_DL.PDF

The add a fuse would just be for your remote turn on. You would still need power and ground. So yes, you would still need to connect to the battery. And the fuse on the power wire is gonna be a 10 amp, not 10 watt. But it should be a fairly easy installation, and looks like all the wires and fuses needed are included. Except that add a fuse you mentioned.
 
The add a fuse would just be for your remote turn on. You would still need power and ground. So yes, you would still need to connect to the battery. And the fuse on the power wire is gonna be a 10 amp, not 10 watt. But it should be a fairly easy installation, and looks like all the wires and fuses needed are included. Except that add a fuse you mentioned.

That isn't true. The sw11 is one of at least two models that crutchfield carries that supports powering from the fuse box as a supported configuration. The CX-5 has an open 15A fuse that powers on/off with the car, so you just need a fuse tap and you can ground anywhere. Pioneer TS-WH500A also supports this, but it doesn't fit under the seat as nicely as the kenwood.

A few weeks ago I tested the PAC adapter with the sw11 just by running the wires in the open and everything worked. At some point I will actually install it for real.
 
That isn't true. The sw11 is one of at least two models that crutchfield carries that supports powering from the fuse box as a supported configuration. The CX-5 has an open 15A fuse that powers on/off with the car, so you just need a fuse tap and you can ground anywhere. Pioneer TS-WH500A also supports this, but it doesn't fit under the seat as nicely as the kenwood.

A few weeks ago I tested the PAC adapter with the sw11 just by running the wires in the open and everything worked. At some point I will actually install it for real.

Let me know how that Sw11 sounds and how the install goes, I'm thinking of picking one up as well to give a bit more base. I like the idea of it under the seat and not taking up any cargo space or having to build a custom box. I like the all in one solution even if it has it's limitations. Maybe do a write up and share with us how you go about getting that thing in
 
That isn't true. The sw11 is one of at least two models that crutchfield carries that supports powering from the fuse box as a supported configuration. The CX-5 has an open 15A fuse that powers on/off with the car, so you just need a fuse tap and you can ground anywhere. Pioneer TS-WH500A also supports this, but it doesn't fit under the seat as nicely as the kenwood.

A few weeks ago I tested the PAC adapter with the sw11 just by running the wires in the open and everything worked. At some point I will actually install it for real.

I wasn't aware anything supported powering off the fuse box. That's good to know. I personally would still run to battery. I wouldnt want to risk any damage to the fuse box. But that's just me. It's how I've always powered an amp.
 
Let me know how that Sw11 sounds and how the install goes, I'm thinking of picking one up as well to give a bit more base. I like the idea of it under the seat and not taking up any cargo space or having to build a custom box. I like the all in one solution even if it has it's limitations. Maybe do a write up and share with us how you go about getting that thing in

I will definitely write something up unless someone else gets to it first. My initial impressions were mixed, but it was good enough that I figured what the heck.

I wasn't aware anything supported powering off the fuse box. That's good to know. I personally would still run to battery. I wouldnt want to risk any damage to the fuse box. But that's just me. It's how I've always powered an amp.

Well, I will be using a 10A fuse on the tap, tapped into a fuse terminal that is supposed to be able to handle 15A. This subwoofer is pretty small so I am not expecting a problem.
 
I think you're right about the Bose roll off being at 45Hz or lower. Yesterday I had just remember that my amplifier has a bass boost equalizer at 45Hz. I turned up the bass boost and readjusted my amplifier gain. Sadly the bass boost didn't help neither as my subwoofer was still lacking the thump that I was looking for. Not sure what else I can do to fix this since the frequency roll off seems to happen at the head unit.

Okay so I readjusted my amps settings this weekend:

Set my low pass filter to about 90Hz

Set Subsonic Filter to about 36Hz

2 things I learned this weekend- 1. The remote knob acts as a remote "gain" control. I thought they were separate adjustments. Glad they are the same thing. Set at 33% range. 2. Placement of sub makes a measurable difference. For cars with trunks it may be louder when aimed at trunk and set near trunk. In hatchbacks I believe bass would sound louder if facing up to bounce off the rear window.

After making adjustments I notice higher quality bass. I might adjust the bass boost (45Hz) setting to no more that say 2dB. This set up does not produce overpowering bass. Instead bass to compliment the existing sound. That said there are some songs I have in which the bass sort of takes over.


No problem Jrod. The hardest part was just trying to cut a hole big enough for the 4 gauge power wire to go through that thick rubber grommet. If I were try it again, I wouldnt have used a knife. Instead I would used a drill or a spade bit to make a hole in the grommet. Just be careful not to damage the other wires. Then you can use a coat hanger to fish the wire through the firewall.

There's a nipple sticking out on the boot (in the engine bay side). If you cut that off it aligns to the hole in the cabin side. I know because when I ran a hangar through the cabin side hole it perceived right through the boot. I think Mazda designed it that way.
 
Last edited:
That isn't true. The sw11 is one of at least two models that crutchfield carries that supports powering from the fuse box as a supported configuration. The CX-5 has an open 15A fuse that powers on/off with the car, so you just need a fuse tap and you can ground anywhere. Pioneer TS-WH500A also supports this, but it doesn't fit under the seat as nicely as the kenwood.

A few weeks ago I tested the PAC adapter with the sw11 just by running the wires in the open and everything worked. At some point I will actually install it for real.

Thanks for confirming that Mack. I also spoke to Crutchfield who said that as well. When I looked at the crutchfield manual it looked to me that you could wire the SW11 into the fusebox. So of course its good to know I can still read an electrical diagram :)

That being said Mack can you send me a link to the proper add a fuse that I need to buy. Too many choices: small,mini, medium.

Mack that is also awesome advice in regards to not needing to hookup remote wire. Which isnt a big deal since im getting the PAC OEM MAZ2.$30.41
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Now for all of you on the fence, heres a hell of a deal with ABT(yes Kenwood authorized) Free Shipping ,No tax unless your a FIB(If your reading this in WI you should be laughing by now). $138.16 ACT FAST!
http://www.abt.com/resources/pages/search.php?keywords=sw11

This has got to be the easiest way to install a powered subwoofer into a CX5

-Mack what was your initial impression of the SW11 when you hooked it up?

-Mack please include a link for that add a fuse holder (Amazon Preferred).

Then we have the complete listing for anyone on the fence.
 
When I was testing it, I used the tap pictured in this guide which is a low profile mini fuse tap http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123829094-Hardwiring-a-Valentine-1. However, it didn't seem to fit right although I didn't really try and force it, so I think I actually need one of these used in this guide which is just a regular mini fuse tap http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123851749-Hardwiring-a-Dashcam-(2016-sport) .

In terms of how it sounded, It sounded better, but it wasn't earth shattering or anything like that. I also got a good deal on the Kenwood so that helps, as I would have been disappointed if I had paid full price.
 
Nice!!!! I'm next. I wrote Mazda USA several times and finally got out of them that the "tuning" (EQ) in the Blose system is in the power amp. I assumed the LF roll-off, if any, was also. Maybe not, but it is so steep and deep, you won't easily restore it externally. There is very little music below 41 Hz (low E on a bass) other than pipe organ music, oh yeah Fallout Boy, so I wouldn't fret over it.

This is a graph of mine.

attachment.php
 
Thank you for this very helpful thread! Considering doing the Kenwood powered subwoofer as well, and this PAC just makes it that much easier. I just want to add a bit of actual bass oomph instead of the sometimes inadequate factory mid-bass. Had an older Clarion amp'd subwoofer in my Miata so I have a good idea of the limitations of such units.

I have two questions:

--is the "Centerpoint" processing also occurring at the Bose amp, as I suspect it probably would be? So, that setting in the HU would not have any effect on the signal being fed to the PAC interface and onto the amplifier, correct?

--I assume that the HU F/R fader setting WILL affect the signal being fed through the interface etc, correct?
 
Last edited:
Dnut999, how did you mount your amplifier? Did you use the typically provided metal screws/brackets directly into the car body?

I ordered the Kenwood SW11 powered subwoofer, the PAC module, etc, but can't find any CX-5 specific info online on what's under the floor covering under the seats. Obviously, screws are more secure, but the Kenwood subwoofer is only about 6.25 lbs and I'm thinking that the Velcro Industrial Strength product line might be adequate, of course depending on how well the Velcro adheres to the floor "carpeting" itself to start. I know that Velcro is frowned upon for the potential to fail or loosen, but given the underseat mounting and the relatively low weight, I suspect there's less risk there even during an accident.

I cut out cardboard to match the SW11 dimensions of 11"W x 2-3/4"H x 7-1/2"D (a bit surprised at how small the footprint is visually using my mockup). It may just fit left to right length-wise next to the vent, which is my preferred mounting direction. Front to back means more of the woofer will stick out and also interfere with the back OEM floor mat. I am on the shorter side, so my driver's seat is set forward, which is another reason why more will be hidden in the left to right placement.

Too bad there isn't enough room to fit it under the back seats (I assume), as that would be an entirely hidden installation even if it means longer cabling/wiring.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for this very helpful thread! Considering doing the Kenwood powered subwoofer as well, and this PAC just makes it that much easier. I just want to add a bit of actual bass oomph instead of the sometimes inadequate factory mid-bass. Had an older Clarion amp'd subwoofer in my Miata so I have a good idea of the limitations of such units.

I have two questions:

--is the "Centerpoint" processing also occurring at the Bose amp, as I suspect it probably would be? So, that setting in the HU would not have any effect on the signal being fed to the PAC interface and onto the amplifier, correct?

--I assume that the HU F/R fader setting WILL affect the signal being fed through the interface etc, correct?

I doubt the centerpoint would have an affect on the signal to the PAC. I dont notice any difference bass difference wether the centerpoint is turned on or not. I usually leave the centerpoint off anyways.

As for the fader, my subwoofer amplifier is connected to the front speaker signal on the PAC. If I would to turn the fader all the way to the rear, my subwoofer would have no sound.
 
Dnut999, how did you mount your amplifier? Did you use the typically provided metal screws/brackets directly into the car body?

I ordered the Kenwood SW11 powered subwoofer, the PAC module, etc, but can't find any CX-5 specific info online on what's under the floor covering under the seats. Obviously, screws are more secure, but the Kenwood subwoofer is only about 6.25 lbs and I'm thinking that the Velcro Industrial Strength product line might be adequate, of course depending on how well the Velcro adheres to the floor "carpeting" itself to start. I know that Velcro is frowned upon for the potential to fail or loosen, but given the underseat mounting and the relatively low weight, I suspect there's less risk there even during an accident.

I cut out cardboard to match the SW11 dimensions of 11"W x 2-3/4"H x 7-1/2"D (a bit surprised at how small the footprint is visually using my mockup). It may just fit left to right length-wise next to the vent, which is my preferred mounting direction. Front to back means more of the woofer will stick out and also interfere with the back OEM floor mat. I am on the shorter side, so my driver's seat is set forward, which is another reason why more will be hidden in the left to right placement.

Too bad there isn't enough room to fit it under the back seats (I assume), as that would be an entirely hidden installation even if it means longer cabling/wiring.

I didnt feel the need to mount my amplifier under the seat. It's heavy enough that it wouldn't slide around on the carpet. I also like be able to pull out the amplifier from under the seat to make adjustments if needed. I had a buddy who velcroed his amplifier to the carpet in a different car and it held up fine.

Looking forward to see how your install turns out and post up some pics if you can.
 
Dnut999, thank you for the responses, I appreciate it! The subwoofer and the other parts should be delivered Tues, so I'll probably try to get it done after work one evening next week or no later than next weekend.
 
Dnut999, thank you for the responses, I appreciate it! The subwoofer and the other parts should be delivered Tues, so I'll probably try to get it done after work one evening next week or no later than next weekend.
Keep us posted on how it goes. I'm highly considering this as my next mod. Now I just need to get my roof rack painted and installed.
 
Potentially dumb question time, as I'm having a hard time deciphering the wiring diagrams: does the TAU wiring harness that the PAC module taps into terminate on the other end at the Bose amp under the front passenger seat? If so, is that the same exact connector, and can then the PAC be inserted there instead? Just thinking that while the power connection for SW11 sub would still need to be routed forward, you'd eliminate the longer run for the RCA cables from the PAC to the subwoofer when attached to the TAU itself. And it is just as easy to get to the Bose amp as it is to the TAU.
 
Thats a great question. I didnt take the amp cover off but from what I can tell, the connectors on the bose amp are too small for the PAC harness. That would of been nice it we were able to connect the PAC from there.

GF0hieC.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back