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- 2019 CX-5 GTR
Going by what others have mentioned, it seems to be the TAU doing the filtering of frequency below 60hz, across all speakers.
Amplifier install on 2016 CX-5 Bose with PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter
- Thread starter Dnut999
- Start date
Going by what others have mentioned, it seems to be the TAU doing the filtering of frequency below 60hz, across all speakers.
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- CX5
1. What's a TAU sir? Hehe!
2. Then if it's filtering across all speakers, you mean it also include the sub in the spare tire?
3. Do you think it's (electronic or active) filtering or it's just the normal roll-off of the drivers.
4. So do you think adding a sub to produce those 50hy below frequencies are useless?
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- CX5
I already installed my Infinity Basslink DC. Signal coming from the speaker level of the stock Bose sub. I do not advice using the stock Bose sub with this sub as the lowest cutoff freq of the Basslink is 50hz. The stock Bose sub does around 40hz. Playing them together sounded horrible. But with the Basslink only, it blended well with the rest of the system. Footprint too is very minimal.
To this might sound like a really stupid question. Ive already replaces my speakers but are still running of the head unit. I dont have a bose system just 6 speakers. If I use the PAC and install and amp I presume Ill have to run fresh cables from the amp back to the speakers inside the doors? Or can they be run back to the unit behind the glove box somehow?
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- CX5
Either.
So where do I run the speaker cables from the amp into? Is there a wiring loom I need to splice somewhere near where I plugged the PAC in? I dont quite understand how the wiring works between that box behind the glove box and the speakers. To connect it all together
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- CX5
Before anything else you still have to describe your system, where you placed your amp etc.
Is that in response to my question? I have no setup yet. Just 6 speaker system. Im simply asking where the original speaker wires terminate around the dash area and if I have splice into them or if I need to run brand new wires from the amp to the speakers and totally disregard the old speaker wires.
Kind of defeats purpose of the PAC if I have to splice the cables anyway to connect the amp and speakers up
Kind of defeats purpose of the PAC if I have to splice the cables anyway to connect the amp and speakers up
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I got the PAC adapter because I only wanted to amplify a subwoofer.
But since you want to amplify the door speakers also, I think it would be easier to use a PAC and run the amp wires all the way to the door speakers. Other than the ease of the installation, Im not sure why you would want to use the stock speaker wire to handle the extra power coming from your amplifier.
As for splicing the stock wires, I don't know if there is a good spot to do it. My best bet would to be to splice the wires after the TAU unit. Theres also a chance the CX5's in Austrialia might not even have a TAU unit at all.
But since you want to amplify the door speakers also, I think it would be easier to use a PAC and run the amp wires all the way to the door speakers. Other than the ease of the installation, Im not sure why you would want to use the stock speaker wire to handle the extra power coming from your amplifier.
As for splicing the stock wires, I don't know if there is a good spot to do it. My best bet would to be to splice the wires after the TAU unit. Theres also a chance the CX5's in Austrialia might not even have a TAU unit at all.
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Quick question about using the PAC with a bose audio system. The signal coming from the head unit is a full profile audio signal correct? I know the bose amp cuts off high / low frequencies depending on which speakers it is sending signal to, but I need the speaker signal coming through the head unit, and then the PAC, to be full profile.
My plan is to use the PAC to pull out a front / rear audio signal. Send the rear signal to a powered subwoofer amp under one seat, and then send the front signal to a 4 channel amp under the other seat, which I'm going to split the signal going into the amp inputs and then send amped audio signals to the front door speakers and the front two side dash speakers, all of which will also be upgraded. So I plan to bypass the bose amp all together for the front side dash and front doors, and then let the bose amp still send signal to the front center dash speaker, the rear doors, and rear pillars.
My plan is to use the PAC to pull out a front / rear audio signal. Send the rear signal to a powered subwoofer amp under one seat, and then send the front signal to a 4 channel amp under the other seat, which I'm going to split the signal going into the amp inputs and then send amped audio signals to the front door speakers and the front two side dash speakers, all of which will also be upgraded. So I plan to bypass the bose amp all together for the front side dash and front doors, and then let the bose amp still send signal to the front center dash speaker, the rear doors, and rear pillars.
The signal from the bose headunit is sadly not full profile, it has a really steep bass rolloff around 45hz. You can search the threads for a more complete answer.
Basically, you'll need an audio restorer to get the low end bass for your subs. I picked this up
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
and it seems to work pretty well, as long as you keep the bass boost at 0. Turning up the boost seems to distort the bass.
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- CX5
Are you sure it's not full range? The roll off (45hz down) you are listening to is probably the woofer's and it's enclosure inherent limitations.
Yes, there have been a few discussions on this already.
My image dynamics idqv2 10" definitely doesn't get as low as it used to in my old mazda3s 2011 (non bose) and '98 honda crv . I was able mitigate some of that with the bass restorer.
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Its on page 3 of this very thread lol
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...OEM-MAZ2-adapter/page3&highlight=bass+rolloff
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- CX5
I don't have a "page 3" as I am using Tapatalk.
Hi everyone, I know this is an old thread, but Im hoping someone here can help.
Using Dnut999s guide, I spent a few hours yesterday installing a powered subwoofer under the drivers seat (amp is built-in). I ran all the wiring (pretty sure correctly), but I should have taken pics.
I have the 2016.5 CX-5 GT with Bose.
After turning the car on, I didnt get any sound at all, from any of the other speakers. I suspect that the problem is the PAC. Im positive I hooked up the PAC harness correctly, but no sound from any speakers.
After disconnecting the PAC, and reconnecting the stock white harness back into the TAU, the sound from all the speakers works again.
Could I possibly have a dead PAC?
I didnt tweak the little arrows on the inside.
( I also might connected the RCA wires to the 2 incorrect back speaker outputs, but Im not sure if that would affect all the cars other speakers)
How do I know if the PAC is powering-on?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Using Dnut999s guide, I spent a few hours yesterday installing a powered subwoofer under the drivers seat (amp is built-in). I ran all the wiring (pretty sure correctly), but I should have taken pics.
I have the 2016.5 CX-5 GT with Bose.
After turning the car on, I didnt get any sound at all, from any of the other speakers. I suspect that the problem is the PAC. Im positive I hooked up the PAC harness correctly, but no sound from any speakers.
After disconnecting the PAC, and reconnecting the stock white harness back into the TAU, the sound from all the speakers works again.
Could I possibly have a dead PAC?
I didnt tweak the little arrows on the inside.
( I also might connected the RCA wires to the 2 incorrect back speaker outputs, but Im not sure if that would affect all the cars other speakers)
How do I know if the PAC is powering-on?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Sounds like a dead PAC or your PAC connections were loose. Shouldn't need to tweak the arrows in order to hear sound from your original speakers.
Thanks for the response. As mentioned before, this is my first audio install.
I suspect that I havent powered the PAC correctly.
Based on research Ive done, my problem is most likely the little blue cable on the PAC.
I had first connected it to a screw to the chassis as a ground... (silly to think about now).
Ive seen two different competing uses for it.
1. Either splice into the red cable on the factory harness to power up the PAC (or)
2. Run another cable from the powered sub to the blue little cable - which is the ON signal that activates the powered sub?
Im stumped.
I suspect that I havent powered the PAC correctly.
Based on research Ive done, my problem is most likely the little blue cable on the PAC.
I had first connected it to a screw to the chassis as a ground... (silly to think about now).
Ive seen two different competing uses for it.
1. Either splice into the red cable on the factory harness to power up the PAC (or)
2. Run another cable from the powered sub to the blue little cable - which is the ON signal that activates the powered sub?
Im stumped.
The RCAs on the PAC only output to an external amplifier. The line out converter on the PAC should have nothing to do with your speakers no longer working when plugged in.
The remainder of the harness is a 1 to 1 wiring pass thru for the OEM system with take-offs to give you additional outputs at the PAC.
The blue wire is most often a remote turn on. A 12v signal on that wire is what actually turns the amps on. Cutting that wire may have cut the signal turn on for the OEM bose amp in addition to not giving you a turn on for your sub.
If in doubt you will need to start testing and verifying with a multi-meter. A vehicle harness schematic would likely be helpful. If this is all too much I'd suggest taking it to a pro audio shop before you cause some expensive damage. Randomly grounding wires without being certain of the purpose is not a good / safe practice.
The remainder of the harness is a 1 to 1 wiring pass thru for the OEM system with take-offs to give you additional outputs at the PAC.
The blue wire is most often a remote turn on. A 12v signal on that wire is what actually turns the amps on. Cutting that wire may have cut the signal turn on for the OEM bose amp in addition to not giving you a turn on for your sub.
If in doubt you will need to start testing and verifying with a multi-meter. A vehicle harness schematic would likely be helpful. If this is all too much I'd suggest taking it to a pro audio shop before you cause some expensive damage. Randomly grounding wires without being certain of the purpose is not a good / safe practice.
