hmm you by be right. All I know is next time I'm going to do it myself.
Small Oil leak for me too... :-(
- Thread starter Kedis82ZE8
- Start date
hmm you by be right. All I know is next time I'm going to do it myself.
Unless they have some adapters that connect to the dipstick and drain holes... not likely though
Here is writeup for a '13 Mazda 3 for dropping the pan
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...at-transmission-fluid-change.html#post1545882
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...at-transmission-fluid-change.html#post1545882
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- Plano, Texas, USA
That would be funny to see the ATF fluid is leaking everywhere while the tech is trying to hook up the ATF flushing machine to drain hole.
I believe even factory service manual has only mentioned drop-pan method to change the SkyActiv tranny's ATF.
Every 30k miles I'm going to drain/fill twice. Single change with 1 week apart.
Friend of mine did it for 3 weeks. He reported by the 2rd tranny oil change it was considerably cleaner. New looking by the 3rd change. Probably cost him a bit more than $100 but that's cheap (to me) compared to German cars.
Friend of mine did it for 3 weeks. He reported by the 2rd tranny oil change it was considerably cleaner. New looking by the 3rd change. Probably cost him a bit more than $100 but that's cheap (to me) compared to German cars.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I really believe doing drain-and-fill ATF change at 30K-mile interval is an overkill. Especially doing it twice within a week like you mentioned. Mazda doesn't even give us a maintenance interval on transmission ATF change like my old Honda CR-V does which specifies 75K-mile interval and only single drain-and-fill according to owner's manual. The transmission now has about 178K miles without problems (knock on wood).
Each drain-and-fill requires about 4 quarts of Mazda Type FZ ATF which costs about $50. So it'd cost $150 for your friend doing drain-and-fill three times.
Personally I'd do transmission ATF drain-and-fill on CX-5 at 50K miles at the earliest. The same for gear oil change on front transfer case and rear differential.
I did a drain and fill (took 4 quarts) right at 50K miles. The 4 quarts I drained were a dark brown color. I'll do a second drain and fill when I hit 75K. The good news is it's almost as easy as changing your engine oil. Only extra steps for me were removing the air filter housing on top for easier access and the splash shield on the bottom. After that just remove the drain bolt, wait 30 minutes, button everything up and oh don't forget to replace the tranny fluid too. I did warm the tranny fluid up to 122F before I did the drain per my heat gun reading.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
There is no gasket there. That is just a cover and inside there is a large (exposed) sprocket
The twice in a week method ensures more of the old stuff is gone (alternative to flush) as some old oil is in the torque converter and some sludged on the pan. I recall someone dropping their pan on a skyactiv tranny and found sludge that needed to be wiped by hand. Pretty sure they had -50k miles on the oil. Two things to point out in my car. I live in Phoenix, AZ where temps reach 114+ no problem in the summer. June -Sept the average temps during the day is 100+. I didn't count June as it ONLY average 95 degrees.
https://www.currentresults.com/Weather/Arizona/Places/phoenix-temperatures-by-month-average.php
Imagine the temps of the black asphalt with my tranny a few inches from it? In other words I live in an extreme environment. My friend has no problems paying $150 for ATF changes as his Evo is rather the money pit. Dude changes his Evo tranny fluid every year on that thing.
So for me that costs what $100? $100 every 30k miles to service my transmission is even cheap for me. In reference if changing the engine oil every 5k miles at say $50 per change for 30k miles = $300. So spending $100 for the tranny fluid in that same time period is 1/3 the cost. Works for me.
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
It's sweat from all that horsepower! Seriously...reminds me of my Jeep ownership experience
I plan to take it in tomorrow morning so will report back initial findings.
Dealership is thinking this is a leak from the transmission. They are putting some dye in and want me to put on 500 or so miles.
If it is transmission... depending on seal it could be simple fix or transmission replacement according to service rep.
If it is transmission... depending on seal it could be simple fix or transmission replacement according to service rep.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
If the leak is from front end of transmission, it can't be simple. Either front input shaft seal or torque converter somehow leaks...
I spoke with mechanic while he was putting dye in oil and he thought if AT most likely front input shaft seal.. it will probably be a couple weeks to rack up some miles.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Your dealer let you get into the service area? It's impossible in our area we can get into service area and talk to mechanic working on our car.
I was wondering if the input shaft seal is indeed the culprit, is it possible the problem is related to the shaft bearing which was involved in an early TSB? I don't think you heard any slight whining noise, right?
The mechanic had pulled my vehicle out of their service bay area over into a nearby parking area by their shop so I walked over to talk to him while he was finishing up on my car.
Mine hasn't exhibited any noises or vibrations at all. Had I not dropped the splash shield I would be oblivious to it.....
Mine hasn't exhibited any noises or vibrations at all. Had I not dropped the splash shield I would be oblivious to it.....
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Looks like I do need move up my planned schedule to change gear oil in transfer case and rear differential for possible low factory fill, and ATF drain-and-fill to have a reason to drop the belly pan and check the possible leak like yours at the same time.
About 600 miles since dealer visit. I am scheduled to take in next Wednesday for further troubleshooting. Remember they put dye in the oil.
A small amount of residue since that time but in this area nearby next to the oil or transmission cooler (I can't remember which).... it almost looks like there are some cracks from factory over-tightening? Thoughts on that part?
A small amount of residue since that time but in this area nearby next to the oil or transmission cooler (I can't remember which).... it almost looks like there are some cracks from factory over-tightening? Thoughts on that part?
C
CX5_Pete
Holy cow.
Its hard to tell from the pic, but is the area dry? Sometimes it's normal to have shallow surface cracks from castings, but that looks like it might propagate a little bit deeper.
Its hard to tell from the pic, but is the area dry? Sometimes it's normal to have shallow surface cracks from castings, but that looks like it might propagate a little bit deeper.
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