Silver P5 getting a turbo

hey all. update on the P5 so far. So I've put over 1000 miles on the build. Got what either seems to be valve tap, quiet rod knock, or piston slap (not sure). Car idles and runs fine. The alternator went a few weeks ago, and I replaced it with one from Autozone. THAT one went bad last week and I swapped it out. It seems the voltage regulator on these stupid things never get replaced when they "remanufacture" them. The alternator on my car is causing the lights to brighten up at 5k+ rpm then dim when the rpms drop. Also the battery light comes on when that happens. I also found out that I installed my adjustable FPR backwards, which is why I'm seeing 90psi of fuel. (Time to flip around). I also made a downpipe for it since the cops don't like fire-spitting cars (150$ ticket fml). I used the honda downpipe (that originally I though would fit, but didn't) to make the angles between the turbo and the coolant hard pipes. I flipped my thermostat and used a rigged combination of a u-shaped coolant hose and a 3" by 3/4" galvanized pipe to couple it to the existing coolant hose. Oil pressure is 15-20 at idle. Pressure is at 45-60 when the engine is still warming up when driving, but drops to 30-40 at the most after the engine is hot and driving. Originally the valve cover, despite new, was spitting out oil behind the camshaft gears. I had to remove, then apply a ton of red RTV to make a super tight seal on the valve cover. So far I don't see any leaks. The only major issue I'm having is the exhaust. I lent out my MIG welder, and I'm doomed to using the factory header-back exhaust, which makes this car 2.5" to 2" from the oil pan section to the muffler - making it comfortably quiet, believe it or not, but restricting the flow of the exhaust drastically. I'm ashamed to say I resorted to using snake-flex pipes to connect the downpipe, which fell 2' short, to the 2" exhaust. Aside from that, I'm a happy camper. I'm getting 10psi regulated, and I'm getting the turkey-BOV combo sound that makes my ears drool.
 
Hey all, some new info on the build as of yay. I hooked up the boost gauge to the vacuum port on the throttle body, this way the gauge recognizes how much boost the actual intake manifold is receiving (I might have a boost leak). I can max out at 15psi but the car will seem to "choke" at that boost in mid-high rpm. I just keep it at 10. Speaking of which, I ran the vacuum tee inside the driving compartment so I can control the boost levels via the wastegate. I ran the source from the turbo itself to the tee inside the car, then from the tee to the wastegate open port (the bottom one that helps the spring open). I also made the entire exhaust 2.5", coming from what used to be a 2.5" downpipe to a 2" factory exhaust. It definitely breathes better with it. Once I made the downpipe (when I was doing the initial build) I just used a 2.5" flex pipe (the 10$ kind) to do up and over the cross member between the 2 tires, then I used 2 pieces of 2.5" x 18" tailpipe extension from autozone, a 12" cherry bomb resonator, 2 of the 2.5" flex pipes to go under the gas tank area and up and over the rear control arm, and another piece of tailpipe extension to the muffler, which is a thrush glasspack (the factory looking mufflers). It has a deep smooth quiet like tone, but sounds nice when you rev and push it. I also wrapped the headers in exhaust wrap to keep the engine bay temp down. I bought a turbo blanket but it doesn't fit between the coolant hard pipe behind the turbo, as the downpipe flange literally sits on it. Car is currently running 5w40 synthetic pentosin oil (Got it for 2$ a gallon @ autozone, clearance ftw). I have a small pre-turbo exhaust leak. My top left most header bolt is stripped so I'm spitting exhaust out the corner. I'ma retap that soon. Also I put the stage 2 6 puck Autocom clutch in with a new oem flywheel. Definitely feel the grip without that OEM clutch slip. When I first did it, it was a really hard clutch to use. after 2 weeks of use, it felt more like a regular clutch for in-city driving. But aside from that, I can burnout in 1st, 2nd, and chirp in 3rd.
 
The valve cover requires dabs of RTV at the corners of the cam caps behind the cam gears, per the shop manual. And the alternator's voltage is regulated by the ECU, you may have a loose ground or the cheap alternators are not working properly. How do you plan to run the WGA? It doesn't look like it will clear the hood
 
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