Lube those caliper bolt pins!

L

Lbear

:
2017 CX5 AWD Touring
Rotated the tires on my 2016 CX5 and removed the caliper pin bolts on all 4 corners. They had very little to no lube on them. Looks like the factory skimped on the lube.

I removed the bolts and used synthetic brake lube on them. It's pretty simple and took my about 5 minutes per caliper. It's cheap and easy maintenance and will prolong brake life and provide smoother and even braking.

Torqued the front bolts to 25 ft.lbs and the rears to 20 ft.lbs

05359.jpg
 
I thought silicone grease is for the pins due to it wont absorb water and its ez on the rubber booties. and the hi pressure/temp synthetic brake grease is for the back of the shims and the guide clips?? was the grease that was in there clear? mine is only a week old and I already have a "to-do" list! I like workin on cars actually. one thing that made me mad on my 2003 honda was the rear toe adjustments were seized, I had to cut the trailing arm to get it apart, bushings cam bolts etc .... why the hell couldnt they in the manufacturing line gob on some silver anti seize??? I want to disassemble my suspension while I can and anti seize everything, but thats nutz. maybe some of that wax based anti corrosion before the corrosion sets it. LPS3 or this is good stuff, leaves a waxy film

https://www.zoro.com/crc-outdoor-co...LQ2ThPvlGKqZJIpB5TAIiBoCdDTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

i just ordered this, gunna do some rustproofin, hillbilly style

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
Last edited:
ctbale said:
I thought silicone grease is for the pins due to it wont absorb water and its ez on the rubber booties.
Click to expand...

The CRC is meant for the pins. It also has Moly! Just like the Mazda OEM oil. The factory pins did not slide easily.

"A specially developed synthetic grease with a high-tech formula for use in disc & drum brake systems. High temperature grease is plastic & rubber safe. Use on metal to metal contact points and sliding surfaces. Resists moisture and will not washout. "

Base Type Synthetic base with Molybdenum Disulfide, PTFE and Graphite
Plastic Safe Yes
Evaporation Rate Slow
Working Temp (F) -30 to 600F
Working Temp (C) -45.5 to 232C
 
Brakes on my 2015 car also squeak, my 2013 car didn't.

Twice now the dealer has fob me off saying there ok, its in again today for that job along with two more, I don't see why I should get my hands dirty on a car only around 4 months old.

Other two jobs I've been knocked back on previously were the dip led lights being too low, brakes squeak, and now I'm asking for the rear view camera to be sorted, its ok in the day but dire at night, my 2013 car camera was good, but again the xenon's on the last car had a low dip beam.
 
xtrailman said:
Brakes on my 2015 car also squeak, my 2013 car didn't.

Twice now the dealer has fob me off saying there ok, its in again today for that job along with two more, I don't see why I should get my hands dirty on a car only around 4 months old.

Other two jobs I've been knocked back on previously were the dip led lights being too low, brakes squeak, and now I'm asking for the rear view camera to be sorted, its ok in the day but dire at night, my 2013 car camera was good, but again the xenon's on the last car had a low dip beam.
Click to expand...
Several people did have problem on LED headlights here in the US as the light beams are too low. One member here found the problem is the load sensor on the rear suspension installed wrongly in the factory! But you should have Mazda i-ActivSense Adaptive LED Headlamps(ALH) which have totally different setup from our US LED headlights.
 
I've never used "brake lube" in 30 years. Putting lube near brake pads seems like a bad idea.
 
CC58 said:
I've never used "brake lube" in 30 years. Putting lube near brake pads seems like a bad idea.
Click to expand...

Uh, no, it's recommended. High temp brake grease stays put. You just apply a thin coating, not a blob!
 
CC58 said:
I've never used "brake lube" in 30 years. Putting lube near brake pads seems like a bad idea.
Click to expand...

You don't put it on the pad that makes contact with the rotor. It's applied to the pins and where the pad contacts the caliper.
 
yrwei52 said:
Several people did have problem on LED headlights here in the US as the light beams are too low. One member here found the problem is the load sensor on the rear suspension installed wrongly in the factory! But you should have Mazda i-ActivSense Adaptive LED Headlamps(ALH) which have totally different setup from our US LED headlights.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately in the UK ALH is part of a 800 extra package, not standard. In hindsight I wish I have bought the pack.
 
xtrailman said:
Unfortunately in the UK ALH is part of a 800 extra package, not standard. In hindsight I wish I have bought the pack.
Click to expand...
I would get ALH if it's available in the US! And your LED headlights are mechanical adjusted like the US version? Which means you might have wrongly installed load sensor?
 
yrwei52 said:
I would get ALH if it's available in the US! And your LED headlights are mechanical adjusted like the US version? Which means you might have wrongly installed load sensor?
Click to expand...

Got the car back today, they say lights are on the top of the allowed limit, I'm not convinced. Also said the brakes are ok, no there not, so my next step is to record the noise and email it to Mazda.
 
CC58 said:
I've never used "brake lube" in 30 years. Putting lube near brake pads seems like a bad idea.
Click to expand...

The lube is placed on the caliper bolt pins, not on the pads and not on the rotors. Every competent mechanic uses it.

The caliper pins slide back and forth with the caliper and if they stick then the pads will not retract when you release the brake pedal. This will make the brake pad stick on the rotor and wear out your brakes prematurely and also reduce your MPG since the brakes are always braking even when your foot is off the pedal.
 
Without reading these comments on this forum, I would never have thought to check the pins. Not like we are having problems, but I plan to do the preventive maintenance when I do the winter/summer tire swap.
But is this a new problem in the brake world or only with mazda? Honestly I don't remember ever doing this with our 2 previous vehicles that had 4 wheel discs. Both were sold with app 200,000 kms on the clock, and both were on the original rotors and pads.
Frick, if our CX5 don't get 100,000 kms out of a set of brakes I'm going to be a little disappointed.
 
Sekmor said:
Without reading these comments on this forum, I would never have thought to check the pins. Not like we are having problems, but I plan to do the preventive maintenance when I do the winter/summer tire swap.
But is this a new problem in the brake world or only with mazda? Honestly I don't remember ever doing this with our 2 previous vehicles that had 4 wheel discs. Both were sold with app 200,000 kms on the clock, and both were on the original rotors and pads.
Frick, if our CX5 don't get 100,000 kms out of a set of brakes I'm going to be a little disappointed.
Click to expand...


Newer cars like the Mazda CX5 have a unique braking system. The rear brakes are applied with equal or greater pressure than the front brakes. Most older cars would wear out the fronts faster than the rears but the vehicle would "dive" when braking. When the CX5 brakes the vehicle doesn't "dive" in hard braking. It will remain steady and not nose dive. This braking system on the CX5 will wear out the rears a lot faster since the rotors are smaller than the fronts but they are required to put equal braking pressure like the fronts, sometimes more.

As far as the lube goes. Mazda seems to have put a quick slap of lube on the caliper pin bolts. Not enough to keep the pins sliding freely. The risk of the pins sticking is there and this can cause premature pad wear.
 
Last edited:
Lbear said:
Newer cars like the Mazda CX5 have a unique braking system. The rear brakes are applied with equal or greater pressure than the front brakes. Most older cars would wear out the fronts faster than the rears but the vehicle would "dive" when braking. When the CX5 brakes the vehicle doesn't "dive" in hard braking. It will remain steady and not nose dive. This braking system on the CX5 will wear out the rears a lot faster since the rotors are smaller than the fronts but they are required to put equal braking pressure like the fronts, sometimes more.

As far as the lube goes. Mazda seems to have put a quick slap of lube on the caliper pin bolts. Not enough to keep the pins sliding freely. The risk of the pins sticking is there and this can cause premature pad wear.
Click to expand...

That's interesting! I wonder if other brands do that. I did notice when I was washing the wheels, the rears had a lot more brake dust than the front. People have also mentioned short pad life with the cx-5. I guess zoom-zoom comes at a cost...
 
CX5_Pete said:
That's interesting! I wonder if other brands do that. I did notice when I was washing the wheels, the rears had a lot more brake dust than the front. People have also mentioned short pad life with the cx-5. I guess zoom-zoom comes at a cost...
Click to expand...

EBD doesn't make brakes wear faster, it just transfers more wear to the rear. If you never brake hard the fronts will last a really long time.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Replacing my CX-5 front brake rotors
Replies
8
Views
2K
madar
M
W
What's involved in lubing the slider pins?
Replies
1
Views
927
theblooms
theblooms
C
2016 CX-5 Rear Caliper TSB
Replies
10
Views
2K
skid00skid0
S

Latest posts

Back