eskimo0101
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda CX-9 Touring AWD
Thanks to member @Avidien we have a thoroughly documented procedure for using a pump to suction out the PTU oil and refill it:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-9-transfer-case-gear-oil-(photos)&highlight=
This is a great help but it falls short on a few levels.
1. You're not getting all the fluid out because the suction line can't reach the very bottom. If your fluid has turned to sludge like most have by 20-30k miles you're not getting much fluid out at all.
2. Without a drain plug it's not at all convenient or recommended to try flushing the sludge out using kerosene or some other solvent.
3. Any metal shaving in the PTU will likely remain there.
4. It's a huge PITA dealing with the pump and lines full of horrible smelling gear oil.
Everyone agrees that the ideal solution for our PTU issues would have been if Ford included a drain plug from the factory so fluid changes would be a standard easy to do procedure like pretty much every other vehicle on the road. The users on the Ford Edge forum have taken that theory to heart and come up with a nice DIY for adding the plug yourself. You can find the thread here:
http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures
Their user threeputtpar did an amazing job documenting adding the drain plug but instead of requiring everyone here to sign up there to see the pictures I'm going to copy/paste his work here.
Copy/paste of his post below:
Here's the list of tools and parts I needed/used:
3/8"-18 NPT hex head pipe plug from Grainger ($3)
NPT tap and die set with 3/8"-18 from Harbor Freight ($12 with coupon)
5/16" drill bit for pilot hole and 9/16" bit for final hole
Cordless drill
16mm socket with 3" extension and long handle ratchet
8MM hex head bit and 6" extension
Center punch and hammer
New fluid and fluid pump
Here's the start of the pilot hole:
And were getting part way into the case:
The pilot hole has broken through:
I didn't get any pics of the final hole size drilled or the tapping of it as I was concentrated on not breaking off the tap in the case, so here's the final product:
He did add that he recommended using a hammer drill, but I'm not a fan of that suggestion. Hammer drills are for drilling concrete/brick, not metal. Drilling metal you should be using sharp bits, slow speeds and proper drilling oil. The other thing I'll add is to use lots of heavy grease on your tap and clean it often during the tapping process. That will capture the metal shavings so they don't end up in the PTU. When you're done I would suggest dumping some lighter oil, like 5w30 through the PTU to help flush out any shavings that might have found their way inside. I'm going to order the parts for this procedure and do it later this spring.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-9-transfer-case-gear-oil-(photos)&highlight=
This is a great help but it falls short on a few levels.
1. You're not getting all the fluid out because the suction line can't reach the very bottom. If your fluid has turned to sludge like most have by 20-30k miles you're not getting much fluid out at all.
2. Without a drain plug it's not at all convenient or recommended to try flushing the sludge out using kerosene or some other solvent.
3. Any metal shaving in the PTU will likely remain there.
4. It's a huge PITA dealing with the pump and lines full of horrible smelling gear oil.
Everyone agrees that the ideal solution for our PTU issues would have been if Ford included a drain plug from the factory so fluid changes would be a standard easy to do procedure like pretty much every other vehicle on the road. The users on the Ford Edge forum have taken that theory to heart and come up with a nice DIY for adding the plug yourself. You can find the thread here:
http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures
Their user threeputtpar did an amazing job documenting adding the drain plug but instead of requiring everyone here to sign up there to see the pictures I'm going to copy/paste his work here.
Copy/paste of his post below:
Here's the list of tools and parts I needed/used:
3/8"-18 NPT hex head pipe plug from Grainger ($3)
NPT tap and die set with 3/8"-18 from Harbor Freight ($12 with coupon)
5/16" drill bit for pilot hole and 9/16" bit for final hole
Cordless drill
16mm socket with 3" extension and long handle ratchet
8MM hex head bit and 6" extension
Center punch and hammer
New fluid and fluid pump
Here's the start of the pilot hole:
And were getting part way into the case:
The pilot hole has broken through:
I didn't get any pics of the final hole size drilled or the tapping of it as I was concentrated on not breaking off the tap in the case, so here's the final product:
He did add that he recommended using a hammer drill, but I'm not a fan of that suggestion. Hammer drills are for drilling concrete/brick, not metal. Drilling metal you should be using sharp bits, slow speeds and proper drilling oil. The other thing I'll add is to use lots of heavy grease on your tap and clean it often during the tapping process. That will capture the metal shavings so they don't end up in the PTU. When you're done I would suggest dumping some lighter oil, like 5w30 through the PTU to help flush out any shavings that might have found their way inside. I'm going to order the parts for this procedure and do it later this spring.
Last edited: