stricmic000
Member
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- mazda 2 2014 red/touring+bluetooth
Ive been looking for a few days and found nothing at all for numbers for alingments for mazda 2 for autox PLEASE HELP!!
Autocross Alingment?
- Thread starter stricmic000
- Start date
flatlander937
Member
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- '11 Mazda2 Sport
2 degrees will make your tires bald in about 1000 miles.
Maybe you meant 0.20?
If stock or close to it, run a bit of toe out(0.20 to 0.30 total toe out).
Also you can loosen your strut bolts and upper mounts, push the wheel inwards to get as much negative camber as possible before tightening up. Do this BEFORE setting toe.
If modded then -2.5 deg camber is about right and not really bad for daily driving. I'd run a bit less toe out though, about 0.10 to 0.15 or so total toe.
I do my alignment at home, generally set from 1 to 2mm of toe out with 2.5 or so negative camber.
Rear is all not adjustable.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ber-bolt-install-tip-string-alignment-at-home
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stricmic000
Member
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- mazda 2 2014 red/touring+bluetooth
So, the front toe is adjustable, the front caster and camber is not? and the rear is essentially a solid axle?
flatlander937
Member
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- '11 Mazda2 Sport
Front camber is adjustable but only with whatever slop exists in the stock strut to knuckle bolt holes, and upper strut mount to strut tower holes.
IIRC in my build thread I posted what I got when I first the car.
Caster is basically fixed unless you buy offset lower control arm bushings from Whiteline.
Rear is all non-adjustable because its a twist beam. I don't know of anybody who has successfully used angled shims under the hub bearings to change specs withOUT interrupting the ABS signal as it moves the hub tone ring too far from the sensor.
If you get it on an alignment rack and find toe isn't close to even left to right, you could loosen the rear beam mount bolts and attempt to push it to the limits to correct the thrust angle.
IIRC in my build thread I posted what I got when I first the car.
Caster is basically fixed unless you buy offset lower control arm bushings from Whiteline.
Rear is all non-adjustable because its a twist beam. I don't know of anybody who has successfully used angled shims under the hub bearings to change specs withOUT interrupting the ABS signal as it moves the hub tone ring too far from the sensor.
If you get it on an alignment rack and find toe isn't close to even left to right, you could loosen the rear beam mount bolts and attempt to push it to the limits to correct the thrust angle.
stricmic000
Member
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- mazda 2 2014 red/touring+bluetooth
Damn, I doubt ill be very accurate adjusting the slack in the suspension this car is my dd still. I guess ill just double check the toe and call it good thats a bummer cause everything on my miata was adjustable it was great
flatlander937
Member
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- '11 Mazda2 Sport
Just force it all to max negative camber then set toe. That's as good as it'll get stock.
Or add camber bolts first. At max negative camber.
That's essentially what you need for a strut equipped car. Even -2.5 deg won't kill tires if you run close to zero toe. I daily drive mine 100mi/day like that. Have put 18k on my car since July.
And all my suspension is homemade/fabricated. I guarantee my bolt holes are nowhere near as accurate as stock stuff (laugh) I eyeball camber mostly then set toe.
Or add camber bolts first. At max negative camber.
That's essentially what you need for a strut equipped car. Even -2.5 deg won't kill tires if you run close to zero toe. I daily drive mine 100mi/day like that. Have put 18k on my car since July.
And all my suspension is homemade/fabricated. I guarantee my bolt holes are nowhere near as accurate as stock stuff (laugh) I eyeball camber mostly then set toe.
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stricmic000
Member
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- mazda 2 2014 red/touring+bluetooth
I will look into camber bolts that seems like a good idea
stricmic000
Member
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- mazda 2 2014 red/touring+bluetooth
I had 1.8 degrees camber on my miata and it was a nightmare on the highway i need to find a balance that lets me do long highway drives without wearing me out
Does anybody know the factory alingment specs?
Does anybody know the factory alingment specs?
stricmic000
Member
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- mazda 2 2014 red/touring+bluetooth
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...odel=Mazda2&autoYear=2014&autoModClar=Touring
My local les schaub has these in stock im gonna have them do an alingment for me and put these in because my steering wheel isent centered and i dunno how to fix that
My local les schaub has these in stock im gonna have them do an alingment for me and put these in because my steering wheel isent centered and i dunno how to fix that
flatlander937
Member
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- '11 Mazda2 Sport
Camber won't cause any real problems on the highway. I'd venture to guess your Miata either had a bit much for out and/or not enough caster if it was squirrelly.
The 2 has a strut front end... Since it doesn't gain camber in bump like a double a-arm(like your Miata), it needs more static negative camber to compensate for body roll to maintain a good contact patch.
As I said I drive 100 highway miles daily with about -2.5 deg camber, 1mm toe out, and on 700/550lb spring rates. It's not carry or anything and if you put 1mm toe in, it numbs the steering a lot.
FYI centering the steering wheel is done by adjusting the toe rods differently left to right. If its left off center when driving straight, then you need to shorten the left tie rod, and lengthen the right.
The 2 has a strut front end... Since it doesn't gain camber in bump like a double a-arm(like your Miata), it needs more static negative camber to compensate for body roll to maintain a good contact patch.
As I said I drive 100 highway miles daily with about -2.5 deg camber, 1mm toe out, and on 700/550lb spring rates. It's not carry or anything and if you put 1mm toe in, it numbs the steering a lot.
FYI centering the steering wheel is done by adjusting the toe rods differently left to right. If its left off center when driving straight, then you need to shorten the left tie rod, and lengthen the right.
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I had -2.75 deg before I started to notice uneven wear when I had my wrx. The H&R bolts are a bit more stout than the spc/ingalls bolts, though I haven't had problems with either in the past (though I hear of more complaints with the ingalls/spc type).
And the factory specs don't matter, they all suck. Hell, when my wife's frontier was aligned the other day it had POSITIVE camber and was still within spec (turns out it's lifted a bit from the po). Put the bolts in, zero the toe, set camber to max (or at least -2 deg), and enjoy. I may be wrong, but with the stock setup the most camber I could get was close to -1 deg.
And the factory specs don't matter, they all suck. Hell, when my wife's frontier was aligned the other day it had POSITIVE camber and was still within spec (turns out it's lifted a bit from the po). Put the bolts in, zero the toe, set camber to max (or at least -2 deg), and enjoy. I may be wrong, but with the stock setup the most camber I could get was close to -1 deg.
