Change out Allen Wrench drain plug

I don't care for the drain plug on the CX-5 so picked up the following hex head bolt in the last order from MedCenterMazda.

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-plug-washer.html

Not exactly a significant upgrade. I have metric Allen sockets AND metric hex head sockets so no big preference here. But yeah, I can understand not wanting to use one of those bent Allen wrenches. But I do like the tighter, more secure fit of Allen sockets over regular hex sockets. It gives you a bit more control when re-inserting the drain plug. So I'll be sticking with the Allen-style drain plug.

But if it came with an old school drain plug, I would just make do with that. No real point in changing unless you don't have Allen sockets.
 
Not exactly a significant upgrade. I have metric Allen sockets AND metric hex head sockets so no big preference here. But yeah, I can understand not wanting to use one of those bent Allen wrenches. But I do like the tighter, more secure fit of Allen sockets over regular hex sockets. It gives you a bit more control when re-inserting the drain plug. So I'll be sticking with the Allen-style drain plug.

But if it came with an old school drain plug, I would just make do with that. No real point in changing unless you don't have Allen sockets.

You use a socket or allen key to re-insert the drain plug? I use my fingers.


I personally wouldn't change it. The SkyActive oil pan was designed to accommodate an allen key head drain plug for proper weight distribution and heat dispassion.(nana)
 
Last edited:
You use a socket or allen key to re-insert the drain plug? I use my fingers.

Yeah, the OEM plug is kind of flat and has a thin, large diameter rim so it's quicker and easier to spin in with an allen socket and it keeps my fingers clean from used motor oil. An old school hex drain plug I have to use my fingers because a socket doesn't hold it with any feel and you could cross-thread it or have trouble getting the threads to engage with the sloppy fit of a standard socket.


The SkyActive oil pan was designed to accommodate an allen key head drain plug for proper weight distribution and heat dispassion.(nana)

Heat dispassion? You sound pretty passionate about this. I just use what the vehicle comes with. Always worked for me!
 
I have tools for both, but I prefer the hex head over the socket head, thanks for posting, old-school.
 
Yeah, the OEM plug is kind of flat and has a thin, large diameter rim so it's quicker and easier to spin in with an allen socket and it keeps my fingers clean from used motor oil. An old school hex drain plug I have to use my fingers because a socket doesn't hold it with any feel and you could cross-thread it or have trouble getting the threads to engage with the sloppy fit of a standard socket.




Heat dispassion? You sound pretty passionate about this. I just use what the vehicle comes with. Always worked for me!

I have only changed the oil once and haven't really had any issues getting the plug back in or making a mess.

And yes dispassion, auto-correct got the best of me for being in a rush. (thought) What I mean to say was dissipation.
 
Funny thread. Weight distribution and heat dissipation of 27g drain plug. ok... I don't pretend to be an engineer, but I'll keep an eye out for overheating, underheating, and dangerous handling.

Always, always start any bolt or nut that I can reach with fingers. The cost, in time and frustration of a cross thread is just not worth short cuts... I have a tough time seeing any significance between Allen socket or bolt in this regard. I guess I'm just sloppy, but I don't worry to much about getting evil, metal contaminated oil on my fingers. I probably have cancer by now, been changing oil since I was 7.

The Allen socket bothers me for a few reasons. The fit with any of my sockets or Allen wrenches is less than the snug fit I've come to expect with Allen type fittings and the purchase is shallower than I think it ought to be for an important fitting. My Hex socket set is shorter than my Allen set giving a little better angle of attack up against the filter.

Just passing it along. As always YMMV!
 
Last edited:
I just use a drain valve. No screwing, no oil on my hand no risk of a stripped anything.
 
I just use a drain valve. No screwing, no oil on my hand no risk of a stripped anything.
Doesn't the Fumoto drain valve prevent the complete oil drain due to its long thread? Take your oil pan down and you'll see the problem. ;)

I'll keep using the Allen-style drain plug as I have little concern of rounding the plug as my old-school USA-made Sears Craftsman 8MM Allen is pretty much snug fit.
 
I guess I'm just sloppy, but I don't worry to much about getting evil, metal contaminated oil on my fingers. I probably have cancer by now, been changing oil since I was 7.

Yeah, I was a sloppy mechanic in a previous life (20 years ago). Then I did two spring tours of backcountry Mexico in a topless 1969 Nissan Patrol 4x4. I had the misfortune of three flat tires during those two trips but they turned into fortune just for the experience of watching 2 different local tire specialists. Both were middle aged men who did the work outside right next to miniature garages which were actually just small tool sheds attached to the side of their tiny houses. There was just enough room in the garages for one person to use a small bench with a vice.

My Patrol had old school split rims which the Mexican tire guys were intimately familiar with. I would unbolt the flat from the spare tire mount on the back of the Patrol and show the local rural tire specialist where the thorn was. The rural tire specialists I met in two different states both wore clean jeans and very nicely tailored long-sleeved white western style dress shirts. Spotless. Gleaming white. Both had a slightly used rag tucked in the back pocket of their jeans. Both seemed interested in the immediate problem and had an air of honest expertise. Both looked at the puncture for a moment, pointed out that it was a split-rim and quoted me a price in pesos (about $4-$5). I nodded my consent and both times they rolled it to a flat spot of dusty gravel a few feet from their permanently open tool sheds attached to their tiny houses. They both pulled a small tool from their front pockets and unscrewed the valve stem. Then they both selected one of their larger long handled sledges and a medium tire pry bar. They both stood on one edge of the flat tire and with a quick flurry of about 15 expertly guided hard blows in quick succession while simultaneously rotating around the perimeter of the tire they were standing on, they had broken the bead and freed the split ring. From there it was a simple matter to pry the tire off and patch the hole. Re-mounting was even easier and just as quick. Then, while standing behind the upright tires, they would fill the tire to about 50 lbs. using conveniently mounted air hoses and present the finished product with a calm smile that showed the pride and confidence they had in their work. I was amazed.

Both times the entire process took only 10-12 minutes. After every sub-operation they would tug the rag out of their back pockets and wipe their hands of with a quick but relaxed flurry of motion before tucking the rag back in their pockets. Although it was warm and sunny both times, neither one ever showed a bead of sweat. And their white western dress shirts did not get so much as a smudge on them and their hands, when finished, were almost as clean as before they started.

Ever since then I wondered how I could do inherently dirty jobs in a more clean manner. By becoming more aware of the motions required to complete any job in a satisfactory manner, I've found I can do the job using less time, less energy and stay cleaner at the same time. I will never perfect it to the degree of the two tire masters that inspired my quest but it is still rewarding to aspire to do it easier, more efficiently and to stay cleaner while doing it.

Personal satisfaction is the best reason to stay clean and efficient while you work. Of course avoiding the extra risk of cancer from used motor oil is not a bad result either.
 
Doesn't the Fumoto drain valve prevent the complete oil drain due to its long thread? Take your oil pan down and you'll see the problem. ;)

I'll keep using the Allen-style drain plug as I have little concern of rounding the plug as my old-school USA-made Sears Craftsman 8MM Allen is pretty much snug fit.

While it does stick into the pan a bit it is no cause for concern; it's about the same distance as the OEM plug is in the picture. I took the oil pan off to install a modified version with a turbo return on it. I use magnets on my pan/filter and there were no frags under the thread. That was after about a 10k interval and I "hoon" my engine every time I drive. The OEM drain won't even fully drain the bottom of the pain on a level surface. Also considering the balance shaft is immersed in oil, and there is a cover under it you pretty much won't be draining all oil anyhow. tbh just drain the oil with the front at a higher incline than the rear regardless of what type of plug you use.

OEM drain is above lowest level already (water in the extra pan I bought)
rIkD8Qu.jpg


turbo drain fitting. (sandwich type an-10 fitting)
iCbIt14.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yeah, the OEM plug is kind of flat and has a thin, large diameter rim so it's quicker and easier to spin in with an allen socket and it keeps my fingers clean from used motor oil. An old school hex drain plug I have to use my fingers because a socket doesn't hold it with any feel and you could cross-thread it or have trouble getting the threads to engage with the sloppy fit of a standard socket.

Could it be that he said what you were planning to say? (boom01)


Heat dispassion? You sound pretty passionate about this. I just use what the vehicle comes with. Always worked for me!
 
While it does stick into the pan a bit it is no cause for concern; it's about the same distance as the OEM plug is in the picture. I took the oil pan off to install a modified version with a turbo return on it. I use magnets on my pan/filter and there were no frags under the thread. That was after about a 10k interval and I "hoon" my engine every time I drive. The OEM drain won't even fully drain the bottom of the pain on a level surface. Also considering the balance shaft is immersed in oil, and there is a cover under it you pretty much won't be draining all oil anyhow. tbh just drain the oil with the front at a higher incline than the rear regardless of what type of plug you use.
Ha I knew I can always expect some more info from you and thanks for the photos on oil pan. By looking from the shape of the OEM oil pan, I thought the drain hole is almost the lowest point but of course I can't see the inside. While Fumoto drain valve sticks into the pan when you drain the old oil but the OEM plug, although it has the same length, is out. This definitely means you'll have more old oil left in the pan if you use Fumoto drain valve. This is something I don't like as I'd like to have used oil drained out as much as I can.
 
Personal satisfaction is the best reason to stay clean and efficient while you work.

LOL... I don't know what to say here. I appreciate good craftsmen too. But I've seen highly skilled and very well paid millwrights and electricians get unbelievably dirty on a daily basis.

I'm satisfied if I don't dump a quart of dirty oil on the floor or drip clean oil on the engine cover. But I've never really worried about getting my hands dirty. In fact being from a rather proletariat up bringing kind grew up with dirt under my fingernails. Seemed like normal everyday life, not something to look down on.

Too each his own I guess.
 
Last edited:
I swapped out my Allen style for the Hex head bolt style as well at my last oil change.
 
I'm satisfied if I don't dump a quart of dirty oil on the floor or drip clean oil on the engine cover. But I've never really worried about getting my hands dirty. In fact being from a rather proletariat up bringing kind grew up with dirt under my fingernails. Seemed like normal everyday life, not something to look down on.

Too each his own I guess.

Yes, everyone is different. I suppose I unconsciously emulate the habits of the most skilled mechanics I've had the pleasure of knowing and working around in my life. And I've known and worked around some really amazing mechanics, both motorcycle and auto.

The most masterful of them had well-organized spotless shops and an uncanny ability to always appear surprisingly clean. They had an inner enthusiasm for their work and a sparkle in their eye and rarely ran into roadblocks or had a failure. This may not hold true in every case, but the ones with smudges on their faces, oil/dirt ground into their hands, under their nails and all over their coveralls were almost always of lower caliber with less skills and tended to view their job as penance for past sins.
 
Regardless of what you have (I do use a Fumoto).. the most thorough drain is on ramps or lifted in the front.
 
LOL... I don't know what to say here. I appreciate good craftsmen too. But I've seen highly skilled and very well paid millwrights and electricians get unbelievably dirty on a daily basis.

I'm satisfied if I don't dump a quart of dirty oil on the floor or drip clean oil on the engine cover. But I've never really worried about getting my hands dirty. In fact being from a rather proletariat up bringing kind grew up with dirt under my fingernails. Seemed like normal everyday life, not something to look down on.

Too each his own I guess.
In tech school the instructor was trying to change the image of the professional mechanic, made us wear white lab coats...unbelievably wrong color for working on cars no matter how clean/proficient/professional your are..
 
If I am changing my oil, I tend to not get dirty unless somehow I place the drain pan incorrectly and it splashes. Not sure how others get very dirty and or oily during this process, my finger tips are usually the only things oily.
 
Back