2.5L Oil level fluctuation

yrwei52 said:
You have no oil raising issue on your diesel CX-5 because you drive a lot at constant highway speed ⋯ :)
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Nice bit of selective quoting. The "highway" part of the daily work trip was no more than 15 minutes each way. And frequently in peak hour traffic, we weren't doing highway speeds. During the day the car was used for almost exclusively short local trips. So let's not overstate the extent of its highway speed driving time.

My brothers car does vast majority of its driving around the suburbs and, as I said, since the Mazda upgrade was done, no oil dilution issues.

It's rare to hear of that issue here in Aus these days. Mazda does still advise monitoring oil levels and talking to your dealer if oil exceeds the X level.

The DPF regen cycle seems to happen about once per tank of diesel. Maybe slightly more often. Maybe every 500km..?

In my new CX5, which is my personal car not a company car since I've now retired, so far driven only about 8000kms and all good. Not nearly so much "highway" driving time as my former company CX5.

I think the issue, which was quite prevalent when the diesel CX5 was released here in 2012, is basically resolved.
 
Moonlighter said:
⋯ I think the issue, which was quite prevalent when the diesel CX5 was released here in 2012, is basically resolved.
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I'm happy to see Mazda has resolved the oil raising issue caused by Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) systems Regeneration and I believe that's why Mazda has decided to release the SkyActiv-D into US market with a newly added more expensive urea injection system.
 
Just checked my oil after a couple long drives over the last few days. Wanted to see if oil level would drop.

It rose. It's now closer to the twist than it is the full dot. Still smells like gas.

As someone who doesn't know a lot about cars, I don't like this one bit.

Haven't talked to service department. Need to, I guess.

Just wondering if this issue cannot be resolved, which from the look of this thread it cannot, should I let the car go before it's value drops any more?
 
yrwei52 said:
I'm happy to see Mazda has resolved the oil raising issue caused by Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) systems Regeneration and I believe that's why Mazda has decided to release the SkyActiv-D into US market with a newly added more expensive urea injection system.
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I don't think these are related. The SkyActiv-D rising oil issue was resolved quite a while ago. The SkyActiv-D for the US market was not able to get a good balance of economy, power while passing US emission regulation. This is why Mazda added the urea after treatment system, which happened at a much later time.
 
mashburned said:
Just checked my oil after a couple long drives over the last few days. Wanted to see if oil level would drop.

It rose. It's now closer to the twist than it is the full dot. Still smells like gas.

As someone who doesn't know a lot about cars, I don't like this one bit.

Haven't talked to service department. Need to, I guess.

Just wondering if this issue cannot be resolved, which from the look of this thread it cannot, should I let the car go before it's value drops any more?
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Update on mine I drained almost a half a quart to get it back to the full line. It was warm last weekend so I took it for a nice long cruise I usually drive it in sport mode around town to keep the rpm's up. Got home checked the oil after and it was still right at full. This week it's been cold I do lots of stop and go on my commute to work decided to check it today when I got home and it had dropped between half and full on the dipstick. Guess I'll just keep an eye on it for now and keep driving it hard In sport mode
 
Mazda sent me a castrol coupon as well as special invite to check out the new Mazdas lol.

I appreciate that, and I don't feel like this is a huge short term issue. I just know the resale value is not wonderful and I don't feel comfortable keeping this car for 10+ years as I initially planned I would.

But seems like all this damn EPA stuff has put a squeeze on the auto industry as a whole to implement new, less proven tech to try and maximize mpg at the cost of durability. I like Mazdas innovation and there dedication to vehicles that are fun to drive.
 
garycar said:
Re: My 2013 Mazda CX5 gas engine oil rising issue - This past week my wife has been driving the daily short trips with the vehicle in manual mode. She keeps the revs up and has not been shifting it into 6th gear. This along with the cover I put on the front seems to help. The oil seems to only be rising slightly each day during these cold days here in the great white north. For others with the same issue as I have, maybe give this a try.
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garycar, did you DIY the cover or was it a commercially available one? I purchased my '16 CX5 GT eighteen months ago and have put only ~12000 km in that time, with most trips being back and forth to work at a commute of 14 km round trip. Changed the oil at ~8000 km and took out 4350cc and put in 4500cc of Castrol Edge with Titanium in July of last year. Changed it again today at 12629 km, 4650 out, 4500 in and installed a Fumoto drain valve. Thinking that a rad cover for the winter would be a good option, or I could start plugging in my block heater on cold days.
 
jurgenk said:
garycar, did you DIY the cover or was it a commercially available one? I purchased my '16 CX5 GT eighteen months ago and have put only ~12000 km in that time, with most trips being back and forth to work at a commute of 14 km round trip. Changed the oil at ~8000 km and took out 4350cc and put in 4500cc of Castrol Edge with Titanium in July of last year. Changed it again today at 12629 km, 4650 out, 4500 in and installed a Fumoto drain valve. Thinking that a rad cover for the winter would be a good option, or I could start plugging in my block heater on cold days.
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Hi Brad. I actually just cut a piece of carpet the shape of the upper grille and attached it to the grille with 4 zip ties. This along with driving it in manual, keeping the revs high and not allowing it to go into 6th gear in short trips has made a big difference for ours during the cold months. The engine oil gets hotter faster and burns off the fuel and the oil level does not rise near as much as it used to. Gary
 
Thanks Gary and I will attempt to do similar at some point as it certainly makes sense if driving in a cold climate.
 
Here's my 2 bits since I'm the one who started this thread.
This issue is only present if you live in a cold climate. Starting and idling the vehicle, longer warm up times, all add to the problem.
I've done a few oil samples and the winter months are terrible (as high as 11% fuel contamination). During the spring/summer the oil does not move up or down and the sample has been tested fine.
During the winter, my oil level definitely rises, I have tried blocking part of the rad off. Tried running premium fuel. So far anything I try does not help the problem.

The only fix I found is to NOT check the oil.
 
mashburned said:
Mazda sent me a castrol coupon as well as special invite to check out the new Mazdas lol.

I appreciate that, and I don't feel like this is a huge short term issue. I just know the resale value is not wonderful and I don't feel comfortable keeping this car for 10+ years as I initially planned I would.

But seems like all this damn EPA stuff has put a squeeze on the auto industry as a whole to implement new, less proven tech to try and maximize mpg at the cost of durability. I like Mazdas innovation and there dedication to vehicles that are fun to drive.
Click to expand...

Everything has to start somewhere. Remember when DI was unproven? FI, for that matter, and we got those abomination TBI systems? The early years of engine ECU's?

Now look at us. I drive a boring little grocery getter with a 4-popper and no forced induction, 8.5" off the ground, and it will go as fast as a 327ci Z28 camaro from back in the day, AND out handle and FAR! out-brake it.
All while lasting 100K+ miles, sipping on 87 octane, getting 23mpg combined user, and pumping music and AC/HEAT into the cabin.

Yeah, there are always teething issues. Those are problems for people who have to have "the latest and greatest". Just buy it after a few years and it's usually mostly worked out and you can reap the benefits of their sour experiences, lol! Like the CX-5 for example. It was a gutless dog when it was introduced. Then we got the 2.5L and it was competitive/did very well within its class, and we bought, and are happy and it's just fine for the most.

Also, that said, I bet the transmissions fail before the engines do. I've never seen a modern transmission outlast a modern engine. Usually you get 1-3 transmissions per engine. That's been my experience, anyway.
 
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Sekmor said:
Here's my 2 bits since I'm the one who started this thread.
This issue is only present if you live in a cold climate. Starting and idling the vehicle, longer warm up times, all add to the problem.
I've done a few oil samples and the winter months are terrible (as high as 11% fuel contamination). During the spring/summer the oil does not move up or down and the sample has been tested fine.
During the winter, my oil level definitely rises, I have tried blocking part of the rad off. Tried running premium fuel. So far anything I try does not help the problem.

The only fix I found is to NOT check the oil.
Click to expand...

I just don't check mine. I checked it after nearing the end of the first few oil changes at 5K mile intervals, and it wasn't burning off and I wasn't scared it would spin a bearing because of low oil levels, and now I just don't really look at it. Hell with it. I have yet to hear of a CX5 suffering fatal fuel dilution.
 
this happens because of direct injection. the fuel dilutes your engine oil and breaks it down.

because of this, I recommend using a 5w30 or 5w40 oil and use something that does not shear easily, like motul or shell rotella.
 
GJ-Molestor said:
this happens because of direct injection. the fuel dilutes your engine oil and breaks it down.

because of this, I recommend using a 5w30 or 5w40 oil and use something that does not shear easily, like motul or shell rotella.
Click to expand...
 

Gas will make any weight oil go into solution. It's the old like dissolves like from chemistry. Polar likes polar and hydrocarbons, like gas and oil are non-polar, so they dissolve well into each other. I've had and built many high hp, high boost, petrol DI engines, and while they had some fuel dilution, it's nothing like the problem Mazda has. I know first hand! I also would never use an oil that thick over the 0w20 recommended. The engine clearances, materials of construction, etc were designed for that weight oil, primarily for fuel economy and a 10W60 (just for arguments sake) would go into solution with the gas, just as fast as the recommended oil. Mazda has a serious tuning problem in cold weather, causing major over fueling and fuel dilution. I know first hand from last winter, when my wife started working from home and taking short trips in cold weather. I had to take at least a 70 or 80 mile freeway trip at 75 or so every week just to keep the oil level in a safe region.
 
mazdman said:
Gas will make any weight oil go into solution. It's the old like dissolves like from chemistry. Polar likes polar and hydrocarbons, like gas and oil are non-polar, so they dissolve well into each other. I've had and built many high hp, high boost, petrol DI engines, and while they had some fuel dilution, it's nothing like the problem Mazda has. I know first hand! I also would never use an oil that thick over the 0w20 recommended. The engine clearances, materials of construction, etc were designed for that weight oil, primarily for fuel economy and a 10W60 (just for arguments sake) would go into solution with the gas, just as fast as the recommended oil. Mazda has a serious tuning problem in cold weather, causing major over fueling and fuel dilution. I know first hand from last winter, when my wife started working from home and taking short trips in cold weather. I had to take at least a 70 or 80 mile freeway trip at 75 or so every week just to keep the oil level in a safe region.
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The clearances were not designed for 0w20. Thats simply CAFE requirements only in North America, everywhere else in the world the skyactiv motor uses 5w30. In the Australian owners manual it specifies that up to 10w50 is okay, so there is simply no way that the engine was designed around 0w20.

Your average mediocre quality 5w30 oil will eventually break down and become something closer to 0w20/30 toward the end of your oil change, but for the first couple thousand miles the oil will be thicker (thus filling your valvetrain, bearings better) and providing more protection. Because of the fuel shear we experience because of direct injection, I think a thicker oil thats resistant to breaking down with some detergents is optimal. Motul is extremely strong oil, as is shell rotella but with more detergents being a diesel oil which is what you want especially for extended drain intervals. At the very least, I would run this quality detergent based diesel oil through my engine once in a while just to keep things clean.

Ive been using 5w30/40 in my engine year-round even through the winter, and it really isnt any harder on the engine during cold starts yet the engine runs quieter and smoother once its up to temp.
 
Just a little update on my fuel dilution in the oil, since this has been a problem since new......as of now, the mileage is at 62,000 kms.

During the late summer, we had the car in for multiple warranty issues and one was the dilution problem was looked at again. I now have about 4000 kms on the latest oil change and things have improved. The last couple months it's been normal winter driving, cold, more idling, driving slower, etc. I checked the oil the other day, and it's exactly on the full line, no fuel odor, even looks like new oil. That has never happened before since new, so I was a little surprised.
Looking at the work order for this problem, all it says is the ECM was updated, so whatever settings that changed is unknown.

FWIW, I also started using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. Not sure if that's a factor since I believe any good quality synthetic oil should do the trick.
 
Sekmor said:
Just a little update on my fuel dilution in the oil, since this has been a problem since new......as of now, the mileage is at 62,000 kms.

During the late summer, we had the car in for multiple warranty issues and one was the dilution problem was looked at again. I now have about 4000 kms on the latest oil change and things have improved. The last couple months it's been normal winter driving, cold, more idling, driving slower, etc. I checked the oil the other day, and it's exactly on the full line, no fuel odor, even looks like new oil. That has never happened before since new, so I was a little surprised.
Looking at the work order for this problem, all it says is the ECM was updated, so whatever settings that changed is unknown.

FWIW, I also started using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. Not sure if that's a factor since I believe any good quality synthetic oil should do the trick.
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Pennzoil platinum is certainly one of the better oils you can put into your cars and likely why your situation improved. If you use 5w30 like someone else mentioned then even better. I recommend limiting the amount of idling you do and try to increase your frequency of highway trips. Do you change your oil every 8k km?
 
Yep. After I started used 5w30 about 4 months ago, my oil is consistently more brown and less black when i check it, and when I last changed it. 0w20 was always black far before my oil change.
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
Yep. After I started used 5w30 about 4 months ago, my oil is consistently more brown and less black when i check it, and when I last changed it. 0w20 was always black far before my oil change.
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Any difference in MPGs, engine sound, vibration?
 
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