So I decided to make up a “How-To” for the power steering pump rebuild due to the fact that I haven’t seen any info specific to our cars, and mine is leaking and needs new seals. This is not an all-comprehensive guide, but hopefully helps someone. I also pulled all the torque values directly from the FSM.
Tools:
This is not the tools required to pull the pump, this is assuming it’s already out of the car.
12mm Socket
17mm Socket
11/16 Socket
T27 Torx
Couple of Standard screwdrivers
Scribe, or pick
Hammer
Small needle nose pliers
Small syringe (optional)
Torque Wrench
Parts:
Kit I used was a Gates rebuild kit part number: 348541
Teardown:
This part is kind of messy. My pump was covered in dirt and ATF, so be sure to wear some gloves. It’s also handy to have a fresh bottle of Dextron III to re-lube the rungs and parts as you put it back together.
I started by removing the back bracket that is held on with two 12mm bolts.
Next step was to pull the suction pipe. The funny little screw uses a T27 Torx bit to get it out.
Next I removed the pressure switch. This requires the 17mm socket.
After all the outside parts are taken off, on to the inside. These are all precision-machined parts and be very carful when disassembling to note where everything goes. I recommend doing this in a relatively clean workspace and using lint free towels or similar rag so not to get fuzzies and dirt in the pump components.
Remove the back cover with a 12mm socket and four bolts. Carefully separate the housing. Inside you will see the main O-ring and side plate.
Remove the side plate by gently prying up on it with a flat screwdriver. It only goes on one way and should be matched back. There is a small “G” mark on the cam ring that matches one on the side plate.
The next part is the trickiest. There is a rather tight split backup ring that need removed. I used two smaller screw drivers to pry it off, but if you have a good set of pliers meant for this, by all means, use them. Take your time and ease the ring off the pulley shaft.
Remove the cam ring. It’s important to note that the “G” or whatever mark is one your pump, is positioned correctly when re installing. The mark faces to your left if you have the fluid openings facing away from you.
Remove the rotor and veins. Carful to not lose any of the little veins, if possible, keep them in their locations. If one falls out, they slide back in with the rounded edge facing out and the flat side to the center of the rotor.
There is a plate after the rotor that is holding in one of the two plunger/spring combos. Carefully slide it off, and take note of which side faces the front pump body, and which the rotor.
Take out the plunger/spring combos and lay them down how the were removed. They only go one way, so they are simple to remember. One is larger than the other. Make sure the springs seat into the cup side of the little pistons.
The pulley shaft should slide right out of the front pump body now. I also removed the front bracket with the three 12mm bolts just to aid in cleaning everything up nicely…Not required though.
Reassembly:
I recommend taking the O-rings off one at a time and matching them with the new ones before installing to ensure proper sizing. Use some new ATF to lube them up before installing. Use a scribe, or pick to pull the old ones off, and gently place the new ones on by hand, no sharp objects! Don’t want to risk tearing the new rings. Also, all the torque values are at the bottom of the write-up for simplicity.
First thing to tackle is the main pump housing oil seal. I used a flat screwdriver and pried up on the seal. Be very careful not to gouge the housing. Use a little ATF to lube up the new seal and a 11/16” socket to use as a pressure point. A little trick I used to make sure the pump was even and flat was to thread the bolts back into the housing making a little table out of it essentially. Tap the new seal in flush with the housing using the socket and hammer.
Next, I did the friction ring seal on the side plate.
O-rings on the suction tube and pressure switch.
Last, did the pump body O-ring.
Put everything together in reverse order.
-Front bracket
-Pulley shaft
-Springs and plunger/pistons
-Bottom plate
-Rotor and veins
-Cam Ring
-Install backup split ring on pulley shaft
-Side plate
-Back half of pump housing
-Pressure switch
-Suction tube
-Rear bracket
Be sure to pay attention to the "G" mark, it has to go a specific way as mentioned earlier.
Make sure everything is torqued and you didn’t pinch the main body seal when putting the halves together and your all finished! After reinstalling into the vehicle, pour some ATF into the pump and spin it a little to get it into the pump, it will probably make a bit of a mess, but you don’t want to dry start the pump.
Torque Values:
Front/Rear Bracket 14-19 ft lbs(18-26 N-M)
Pump Body Bolts 19-21 ft lbs(17-22 N-M)
Pressure Switch 13-16 ft lbs(17-22 N-M)
Suction Pipe 31-35 in lbs(3.5-4.0 N-M)
Tools:
This is not the tools required to pull the pump, this is assuming it’s already out of the car.
12mm Socket
17mm Socket
11/16 Socket
T27 Torx
Couple of Standard screwdrivers
Scribe, or pick
Hammer
Small needle nose pliers
Small syringe (optional)
Torque Wrench
Parts:
Kit I used was a Gates rebuild kit part number: 348541
Teardown:
This part is kind of messy. My pump was covered in dirt and ATF, so be sure to wear some gloves. It’s also handy to have a fresh bottle of Dextron III to re-lube the rungs and parts as you put it back together.
I started by removing the back bracket that is held on with two 12mm bolts.
Next step was to pull the suction pipe. The funny little screw uses a T27 Torx bit to get it out.
Next I removed the pressure switch. This requires the 17mm socket.
After all the outside parts are taken off, on to the inside. These are all precision-machined parts and be very carful when disassembling to note where everything goes. I recommend doing this in a relatively clean workspace and using lint free towels or similar rag so not to get fuzzies and dirt in the pump components.
Remove the back cover with a 12mm socket and four bolts. Carefully separate the housing. Inside you will see the main O-ring and side plate.
Remove the side plate by gently prying up on it with a flat screwdriver. It only goes on one way and should be matched back. There is a small “G” mark on the cam ring that matches one on the side plate.
The next part is the trickiest. There is a rather tight split backup ring that need removed. I used two smaller screw drivers to pry it off, but if you have a good set of pliers meant for this, by all means, use them. Take your time and ease the ring off the pulley shaft.
Remove the cam ring. It’s important to note that the “G” or whatever mark is one your pump, is positioned correctly when re installing. The mark faces to your left if you have the fluid openings facing away from you.
Remove the rotor and veins. Carful to not lose any of the little veins, if possible, keep them in their locations. If one falls out, they slide back in with the rounded edge facing out and the flat side to the center of the rotor.
There is a plate after the rotor that is holding in one of the two plunger/spring combos. Carefully slide it off, and take note of which side faces the front pump body, and which the rotor.
Take out the plunger/spring combos and lay them down how the were removed. They only go one way, so they are simple to remember. One is larger than the other. Make sure the springs seat into the cup side of the little pistons.
The pulley shaft should slide right out of the front pump body now. I also removed the front bracket with the three 12mm bolts just to aid in cleaning everything up nicely…Not required though.
Reassembly:
I recommend taking the O-rings off one at a time and matching them with the new ones before installing to ensure proper sizing. Use some new ATF to lube them up before installing. Use a scribe, or pick to pull the old ones off, and gently place the new ones on by hand, no sharp objects! Don’t want to risk tearing the new rings. Also, all the torque values are at the bottom of the write-up for simplicity.
First thing to tackle is the main pump housing oil seal. I used a flat screwdriver and pried up on the seal. Be very careful not to gouge the housing. Use a little ATF to lube up the new seal and a 11/16” socket to use as a pressure point. A little trick I used to make sure the pump was even and flat was to thread the bolts back into the housing making a little table out of it essentially. Tap the new seal in flush with the housing using the socket and hammer.
Next, I did the friction ring seal on the side plate.
O-rings on the suction tube and pressure switch.
Last, did the pump body O-ring.
Put everything together in reverse order.
-Front bracket
-Pulley shaft
-Springs and plunger/pistons
-Bottom plate
-Rotor and veins
-Cam Ring
-Install backup split ring on pulley shaft
-Side plate
-Back half of pump housing
-Pressure switch
-Suction tube
-Rear bracket
Be sure to pay attention to the "G" mark, it has to go a specific way as mentioned earlier.
Make sure everything is torqued and you didn’t pinch the main body seal when putting the halves together and your all finished! After reinstalling into the vehicle, pour some ATF into the pump and spin it a little to get it into the pump, it will probably make a bit of a mess, but you don’t want to dry start the pump.
Torque Values:
Front/Rear Bracket 14-19 ft lbs(18-26 N-M)
Pump Body Bolts 19-21 ft lbs(17-22 N-M)
Pressure Switch 13-16 ft lbs(17-22 N-M)
Suction Pipe 31-35 in lbs(3.5-4.0 N-M)
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