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Thread: Change automatic transmission fluid?

  1. #31
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unobtanium View Post
    $15 a quart, and 12 quarts. This is what the Mazda dealership quoted me. $312, IIRC. I'm going to have it done here in a few weeks because it's still under warranty, and "why not?" If it doesn't kill it, it will help it. If it kills it, I get a new one for free, soo....
    If one was doing a flush but not for a drain/refill. IIRC Chris mentioned only about 5-6 quarts comes out on a drain.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kedis82ZE8 View Post
    If one was doing a flush but not for a drain/refill. IIRC Chris mentioned only about 5-6 quarts comes out on a drain.
    The dealership that is doing it has a machine by BG (*?) and they remove the trans lines, hook it up, and it pulls out 12 quarts, and puts in 12 quarts. Whether the 12 it pulls out is 6 of the new it put in, I have no idea. That just is what it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Unobtanium View Post
    The dealership that is doing it has a machine by BG (*?) and they remove the trans lines, hook it up, and it pulls out 12 quarts, and puts in 12 quarts. Whether the 12 it pulls out is 6 of the new it put in, I have no idea. That just is what it is.
    Oh ok... I was just referencing home DIY method
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4G63T View Post
    Doesn't make sense how metal shavings is good for the transmission on those BMWs . I'm thinking something else is a culprit of changing the oil at high mileage causing the transmission to fail .

    Hypothesis :
    Maybe as time and repeated heat cycles and changing weather and wear particles the oil viscosity gets thicker ? As mileage gets higher with the oil, the gears begin to wear more then they should and the tolerance is not as tight as it was , requiring thicker oil . And when people put in the "correct" oil viscosity , at that high mileage the required viscosity is too thin for it now .

    But when changing the oil early consistently , the gears don't wear as fast or as much . So the recommended oil viscosity is sufficient for the still "tight" gear tolerances .


    Oil over time, changing weather cycles, normal friction heat cycles, water condensation mixing etc... loses it's properties to lubricate and protect etc... Gear Oil does not get better over time and usage.

    What you guys think ?
    Metal shavings are not good for ANY transmission lol. Make sure not to miss the point. The point of the matter at least for BMW transmissions was to take the lessor of two evils. A high mileage BMW with no transmission servicing ever done (thick fluid and metal shavings and all) is the lessor evil to a high mileage BMW that will (just now) have transmission fluids changed. The solution therefore are earlier scheduled changes as to prevent extensive metal shavings in the first place.



    Quote Originally Posted by Unobtanium View Post
    $15 a quart, and 12 quarts. This is what the Mazda dealership quoted me. $312, IIRC. I'm going to have it done here in a few weeks because it's still under warranty, and "why not?" If it doesn't kill it, it will help it. If it kills it, I get a new one for free, soo....
    Someone wrote to Mazda corporate about transmission fluid servicing because it is not covered in the manual. The response back was to refer to a local dealership to have them assess and to follow their recommendations. My go to dealership recommends changing it at around 40k miles.


    Quote Originally Posted by Unobtanium View Post
    The dealership that is doing it has a machine by BG (*?) and they remove the trans lines, hook it up, and it pulls out 12 quarts, and puts in 12 quarts. Whether the 12 it pulls out is 6 of the new it put in, I have no idea. That just is what it is.
    That's interesting. I actually did a flush/fill through our dealership. Came to $199 after coupon. My cousin went a different route with his used mazda3. He drain/filled the fluid. Ended up spending about half of what I paid.

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    The BG thing you're referring to is FLUSH, not drain and fill. You can do a poor man's flush also but changing the fluid and then removing the return line from the torque converter, starting the car and let the fluid drain out from the converter. In this process one needs to have careful measure of how much goes out and how much to put in. This process is definitely GENTLIER than the BG Flush method. Most of the metal shavings remain in the car, especially the tranny pan.
    In my other cars, every 3rd. flush like above I drop the tranny pan, clean it out, put on a new gasket and re-seal it.

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    I think if you stay on top of the fluid services, a full fluid exchange is not required. That is just my .02 cents

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4G63T View Post
    Doesn't make sense how metal shavings is good for the transmission on those BMWs . I'm thinking something else is a culprit of changing the oil at high mileage causing the transmission to fail .

    Hypothesis :
    Maybe as time and repeated heat cycles and changing weather and wear particles the oil viscosity gets thicker ? As mileage gets higher with the oil, the gears begin to wear more then they should and the tolerance is not as tight as it was , requiring thicker oil . And when people put in the "correct" oil viscosity , at that high mileage the required viscosity is too thin for it now .

    But when changing the oil early consistently , the gears don't wear as fast or as much . So the recommended oil viscosity is sufficient for the still "tight" gear tolerances .


    Oil over time, changing weather cycles, normal friction heat cycles, water condensation mixing etc... loses it's properties to lubricate and protect etc... Gear Oil does not get better over time and usage.

    What you guys think ?
    I don't think it's the gears/bearings wearing out that cause the majority of automatic transmission failures.
    Usually a solenoid starts acting funny and is slow to apply/release the fluid pressure from one of the many "clutches" within the transmission causing accelerated wear. Once one of the clutches is slipping it's only a matter of time before you loose a gear or 3.

    The other problem might be something blocking one of the fluid passages also leading to insufficient fluid pressure and clutch slippage.

  8. #38
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    When I changed transmission fluid in my Tahoe, I used quick-connect fitting that goes into the fluid cooler (part of radiator). It is very easy to take the cooler line out, plug the fitting in, put the clear hose from the fitting into a bucket, start the engine. Wait until 1gal pumps out, then stop and add fresh fluid. Carry on until all the old fluid is replaced by the fresh one.
    I also dropped the pan to replace a filter.
    Now, CX-5 doesn't have a transmission filter, does it? So with the above method it is not very necessary to drop the pan, maybe to clean the magnet.
    I'd prefer to do it this way when time comes to CX-5, no mess, very easy, all the fluid gets exchanged, and no flush involved from who knows what "machine"...
    I wonder if the transmission cooler lines are as easy to disconnect from the radiator? Too cold to go take a look myself, does anyone know?

  9. #39
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    Here is video from this thread

    changing fluid & dropping pan in a 2.0L CX-5

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    Is that a transmission filter at around 4:50?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kedis82ZE8 View Post
    Is that a transmission filter at around 4:50?
    Damn sure it is, thanks! So there's the filter and sealed fluid cooler with no way to pump all the fluid out. Oh well, it is what it is...

  12. #42
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    I was surprised myself as it seems most vehicles aside from large SUVs and trucks use screens these days.

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    Not complaining... I think this is a good thing.

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    Last edited by Kedis82ZE8; 01-21-2016 at 09:17 PM.
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  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kedis82ZE8 View Post
    I was surprised myself as it seems most vehicles aside from large SUVs and trucks use screens these days.

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    Not complaining... I think this is a good thing.

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    All cars I know of use filters. My jeep even had 2. Thay transmission is in all of Chrysler heavy vehicles, and the nag1 in all their v8 cars also has filters.

  14. #44
    i-ACTIV AWD Aficionado Kedis82ZE8's Avatar
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    Like I said... more of the large bore American steel use filters...not really aware of any small displacement or Japanese cars that use filters but do use screens.

    Not aware of any Nissans including the 370 that use filters either.
    Last edited by Kedis82ZE8; 01-21-2016 at 10:15 PM.
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  15. #45
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    Arrow Change automatic transmission fluid?

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