Cody's Blazing Yellow MSP

It's actually relatively easy to replace the diff. Once you have the trans out you remove the two bolts that hold the gear sets in place on the case, and the bolt with the ball and spring behind it then remove the end cap and two lock nuts on the gear shafts, once you pull the 5th gear sprockets off you can unbolt the case and separate it. Once the case is off you can pull the gear shafts up a bit and rotate/slide the diff out. Not much to it really. Be sure to install new bearings on the new diff and clean up the magnet inside the case. If the trans is original you may want to consider a rebuild or replacing it with a lower mileage unit. You can find a JY trans for anywhere from $100-200 complete. Rebuild kits start around $800.
 
Thanks for the input! I hope it really is that easy. I just need to stay organized.

I did get a chance to pull the trans today. Wasn't too bad but I did have a few challenges considering this is the first time I've pulled a trans from a fwd car. Dad was here to help so that was good.


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I ordered the parts for the LSD install a while ago (bearings, gear shaft nuts, axle seals, input shaft seal, pilot bearing, and new flywheel bolts). The dealership I ordered from was taking FOREVER to ship this stuff. They kept giving me the runaround and making up dates for when they would receive the stuff from Mazda. I finally cancelled my order and ordered the LSD install kit from Crossover Auto Performance. I should have it by tomorrow. I also ordered a new TOB, flywheel bolts, and pilot bearing from ebay and Rockauto as well. I should have everything by the end of this week.

I started pulling the trans apart today. I got the case off and, because the diff was sheared, I was able to slide it out without taking the gear shafts out.

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Progress has been REALLY slow on this project. As soon as my parts came, I went on vacation for a week. Last Monday, I took the diff to Napa and had the bearings pressed on and then started putting it all back together. Things were going well until my dad snapped the plastic oil passage for 5th gear. I was hoping not to break that but it's not a big deal. That should be here Tuesday.

I am very anxious to get this thing back together. I really miss driving it. The BMW is nice but there's just something about the MSP - it's so much fun and it's newer and has better paint. Speaking of paint, as soon as the MSP gets fixed, the BMW is getting torn apart for paint and a motor swap.

New diff in
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Sweet, another Cody with a MSP! Not too far either, should meet up someday, maybe go to the tail of the dragon or something

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Ive never been, and my mom lives like 45 mins away from it, also never had a car i cared to take on it until i just got this MSP

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Give me a holla when you guys wanna meet up for the dragon's tail.I live in WNC and never drove it,just been a passenger in a friends 911 once.
 
After a lot of hassle, the car is back on the road. When I first installed the transmission, the car wouldn't move in gear. I removed and disassembled the entire transmission. The only thing I could think of that was wrong was maybe I had the shift forks, rod, or sleeve in the wrong spot. Long story short, I put the transmission back in the car (but not completely) and there was still a disconnect between the engine and transmission. Removing the drain plug showed me that the ring gear was spinning and taking the 5th gear pan off showed me that the primary shaft/input shaft was moving. Why wouldn't spinning the wheels turn the engine? The throwout bearing that RockAuto sent was wrong. It was hanging up between the input shaft and the bellhousing/case. After installing my old (but still good) throwout bearing, everything works as it should.

It feels good to drive this car again. I've missed it. OH and remember the issue I had with the clutch pedal being heavy? I fixed that too. Apparently, the mechanic who installed the clutch didn't lube the throwout bearing and/or input shaft. I did, and the pedal is so much easier to push!

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A few months ago, I bought brand new AXR Clunk Fix bushings and brackets for the rear sway bar off a forum member. I finally got around to installing those today. I installed the AWR poly bushings last year and those have been fine. But, I was hoping to get rid of some noises coming from the rear suspension and thought I'd try this first. Unfortunately, they didn't get rid of the knocking noise coming from the right rear. On the plus side, they should last a LONG time and make the car handle better. Kind of hard to tell though because the car handles so well already! Everything was torqued to spec and I even painted over the bare metal where the old bushings used to be. OCD OVERDRIVE!

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These cars are plagued with noises, but the rear struts are the likely causes.
I think you're right. The previous owner told me the struts had been replaced. The trailing arms and lateral links look original and could be making noise BUT it's a knocking noise only on the passenger side. I'm thinking maybe the strut is bad.

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I think you're right. The previous owner told me the struts had been replaced. The trailing arms and lateral links look original and could be making noise BUT it's a knocking noise only on the passenger side. I'm thinking maybe the strut is bad.

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You should look towards the strut mounts. If you search the forum you'll find the answer. I wish I could give you an exact answer but it's been years
 
Lately I've been trying to knock out some little things on the car that have been bothering me. The main thing has been the idle. It has a rough idle on warm starts that I can't figure out. The idle will dip down to about 500 rpm and won't rev for a few seconds. After maybe 15-20 seconds it will correct itself and everything is normal. I bought another MAF from the junkyard as well as 2 extra IACs plus I already tried a spare IAC that we had. I also cleaned the throttle body. Hopefully IAC number 4 will work. I haven't driven the car since swapping it out yesterday.

This weekend I also adjusted my parking brake, and bled/flushed the brakes. The old fluid looked like syrup or Coke. Lastly, I sealed the surface rust that was forming on the back of the driver front and passenger front doors as well as the inside part of the trunklid. The rust converter is actually really nice. It dries clear. I went overboard with the tape. You definitely don't want to get it on the exterior paint but when it dries it kind of looks like hot glue but not as thick.

Random pics below... My dad bought a trailer for his p5 too.

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