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Thread: Cody's Blazing Yellow MSP

  1. #46
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    2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege

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    Quote Originally Posted by hornsfan10609 View Post
    The Mishimoto aluminum radiators are on sale, or were recently for $155. You would have to upgrade to a front mount though, which is completely worth it. For the suspension noise I would double check the nut that secures the strut mount to the spring/strut. It is difficult to get them tight, I used a spring compressor and tightened it around the odd shaped washer to keep it still and it allowed me to tighten the nut. I had a knocking noise when I installed lowering springs and tightening that nut more made it go away.
    Quote Originally Posted by 323 View Post
    oh yeah i forgot about that. if you have an impact, that helps as you'll see the nut tighten down more.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I looked at the rear suspension again and, as I raise and lower the car with the jack, the noise comes from where the lateral links bolt up in the center. I used an impact gun on the top strut nuts so those should be ok. As far as the radiator goes, I wish I had been able to get one of the Mishimotos on sale. My dad needed a radiator for his P5 as well. $155 is a steal! How will the car feel with a FMIC on stock boost? Will the extra length of the pipes make it lose throttle response?

    EDIT: I saw some people on the facebook page running aluminum 3 row Civic radiators along with the SMIC. The only downside is that it is narrow and you can only use one fan. This would probably make my A/C less efficient. I would also have to make custom mounting brackets. I would rather not do all of that. I emailed Partsgeek.com about the leaky Nissens. We'll see if they send me a replacement that I can use until I come up with a better solution....
    Last edited by e30addict; 12-12-2016 at 06:04 PM.
    2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - 244k miles on chassis
    1991 BMW 318is - 270k miles - Project car

  2. #47
    SELECT * FROM DonutBox 323's Avatar

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    no you won't notice much throttle response loss. with my smic, my car seemed to always heatsoak and run super duper lame after about 20 minutes but that could've just been me with other underlying problems.
    03 MSP, 03 P5

  3. #48
    Certified Mazda Tech hornsfan10609's Avatar

    2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2

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    I don't notice much of a difference in throttle response either. Since I have turned the boost up to 16psi I have noticed a bit more boost lag but my BOV is vented to atmosphere so it has to build boost up every shift and lags more than a recirculated setup would. In Texas where it was 75 degrees today and consistently 100 degrees in the summer there is no other option for a modified car with forced induction than a FMIC.
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  4. #49
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    2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege

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    Quote Originally Posted by 323 View Post
    no you won't notice much throttle response loss. with my smic, my car seemed to always heatsoak and run super duper lame after about 20 minutes but that could've just been me with other underlying problems.
    Quote Originally Posted by hornsfan10609 View Post
    I don't notice much of a difference in throttle response either. Since I have turned the boost up to 16psi I have noticed a bit more boost lag but my BOV is vented to atmosphere so it has to build boost up every shift and lags more than a recirculated setup would. In Texas where it was 75 degrees today and consistently 100 degrees in the summer there is no other option for a modified car with forced induction than a FMIC.
    Well, that's good to hear. I'll remember that down the road if and when the replacement radiator starts leaking.... If I do go the FMIC route, I'll have to figure out how to keep the BPV. I see the CX Racing kit on ebay uses a blow off valve.
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  5. #50
    Certified Mazda Tech hornsfan10609's Avatar

    2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2

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    The BPV is too small, there is no reason not to upgrade to a BOV. Most people just get the ebay universal piping kit and cut the pipes to fit. Then you will just need a BOV and a short pipe with the proper flange welded on it.
    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...w-To-Ebay-FMIC
    It's a long thread but it has everything you need to know inside it.
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  6. #51
    Swollen Member Natey's Avatar
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    I'll betcha the clunk is the swaybar where it bolts to the subframe.

    I learned something about those civic radiators. Thanks!
    NPOT (Norcal Protege Options Team)
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  7. #52
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    Update: Installed the replacement Nissens radiator on Christmas Eve. Then, the car did that weird thing where if I don't drive it for about a week, it runs like crap. I got in one day and it would barely idle, died at stoplights, and hit fuel cut regularly. I did some investigating and found out the coil packs were bad so I replaced the coils, wires, and plugs all at once. It runs much better now but still hits fuel cut. So, I put the air compressor to the wastegate actuator and discovered it was not working consistently. It would open about 2 times when pressurized, then the 3rd time wouldn't do anything. Oddly enough, my dad has the turbo out of his Lotus Elan right now so we tested his actuator too. It works so much better than mine lol. So, needless to say I ordered a new wastegate actuator. I decided to go with the Turbosmart. We'll see how that goes. I've read it's easier to take the turbo out to do it. What are you guys' experiences with this?

    Here's a pic for now. It's a rainy weekend here in Georgia.

    Last edited by e30addict; 01-21-2017 at 01:03 PM. Reason: But
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  8. #53
    Certified Mazda Tech hornsfan10609's Avatar

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    Remove the turbo to install the WG, it's damn near impossible otherwise.
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  9. #54
    Registered Member cartracer12's Avatar

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    I've done two wastegates without removing the turbo, even with the vehicle in the hoist it sucks.

    Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

  10. #55
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    Last weekend I put the car back together. Pulling out the turbo really wasn't hard at all. It only took about 2 hours to remove it. I had to wait a little longer to put everything back together because I had Advance Auto order a new exhaust manifold gasket along with a new downpipe gasket. After getting it back together, I was still having problems with hesitation. I went out for a test drive and it shut off at a stop sign. Then, it seemed like the starter got stuck. I pushed it into a gas station and finally got it to start. I got it back home and swapped the cam position sensor with dad's car and also tightened up my air intake hose to the turbo and the MAF. I forgot to tighten those!! I went for another test drive and the hesitation was gone but it now hit fuel cut at high boost. At this point I was pissed. My dad suggested I swap out my MAF so I got out the spare and cleaned it and threw it on the car. After this, the car ran GREAT!! It runs perfectly now. No fuel cut, no hesitation. I couldn't be happier with it.







    Last edited by e30addict; 02-12-2017 at 06:10 PM.
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  11. #56
    Certified Mazda Tech hornsfan10609's Avatar

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    Hmm, MAF may have been dirty. Glad it's running well.
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  12. #57
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    Gave her a good wash and vacuum today and also tightened up my shifter since it was rattling. It continues to run well. Idle is a little shaky at times but no more major issues.




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  13. #58
    Dunna dunna dunna.... batmang's Avatar

    2003 Mazdaspeed Protege

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    It's looking good man... LOVE the color.
    2003 Blazing Yellow Mica Mazdaspeed Protégé

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by batmang View Post
    It's looking good man... LOVE the color.
    Thanks!
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  15. #60
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    Well, I blew up my diff the other day. This is something I really didn't want to happen but at 246k on the car, I can't say I'm surprised. I've already sourced a replacement diff from Brian of Signature Products. He'll be welding it for reinforcement as well. Has anybody replaced their diff before? I looked at the thread on how to do it and its kind of overwhelming.

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