110V outlet
- Thread starter bmninada
- Start date
"Reasonable wattage"??
Reasonable wattage would be defined by the intended usage. Without knowing that, "reasonable" is meaningless. However, without installing a battery separate from your primary starting battery, any inverter installed would run the risk of leaving you stranded if it were used incorrectly.
Since I've never seen a car that came with factory installed 110v outlet, I'm not sure what you are looking for in terms of aesthetics. Most inverters have a 110 outlet incorporated into the case. You could probably mount an inverter under one of the front seats but this could be inconvenient from the perspective of plugging power cords into it. In any case, this kind of install needs to be engineered properly from an electrical perspective with regard to wire gauge/distance/amperage/fuses, etc. It's not a job for a beginner without proper guidance.
A number of cars had them including the Pontiac Vibe
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
My dads f150 has a 110 in it.
Most of the vehicles with factory outlets range from 150-400W max, and use modified sine wave inverters that are not good on tools and electronics. Pure sine wave is better. To me 'useful' starts around 2000 watts of pure sine wave, but that's a relatively big piece of equipment and will cost ~$300 before installation. I'm also not certain if the CX5 alternator is rated for this kind of use - usually I see this on trucks/commercial vans/rv's
Keep in mind the cigarette lighter style of 12V outlets usually has a 15 amp fuse which is only 180 watts. Factor in losses in the inverter and that means you can run up to about 150 watts worth of devices through that inverter, if you go that route.
EDIT: CX5 alternator is 100 amps. 400 watts is about all you'll want to pull through it and its battery. For bigger loads, buy a generator like one of the Honda EU's. Pure sine wave and easy to transport. The 2000 watt version is man-portable.
Keep in mind the cigarette lighter style of 12V outlets usually has a 15 amp fuse which is only 180 watts. Factor in losses in the inverter and that means you can run up to about 150 watts worth of devices through that inverter, if you go that route.
EDIT: CX5 alternator is 100 amps. 400 watts is about all you'll want to pull through it and its battery. For bigger loads, buy a generator like one of the Honda EU's. Pure sine wave and easy to transport. The 2000 watt version is man-portable.
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I'm diehard EU2000i fan but wouldn't scoff at a Yamaha series either. I have a couple of them... need more capacity attach them together. Sorry... I know generators isn't what the thread is about but I couldn't help myself.
Converted mine to run as tri-fuel (unleaded, propane or natural gas)
Don't apologize! It's good to mention potential solutions that may be more practical depending upon the intended application. The OP didn't disclose the intended application. A Honda EU2000i would be perfect for serving up quick shots of espresso in ski area parking lots. Very festive! I have a Francis Francis Y3 and it cranks out delicious shots with minimal effort:
Since it's less than 4 inches wide, it would fit nicely in the back of a CX-5.
Cool. Does the rated power output drop much on propane? Have you needed more than 2000W (but less than 4000W) before or is the daisy-chain option more for emergency/disaster scenarios?
Got espresso? Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm..............
I've heard about 10% reduction in power with propane/NG. Elevation of course plays a role in power reduction above 4K feet with stock jetting. If you used one with your espresso maker I'd just use gas.
I have lots of short term outages and got tired of draining the gas so recently cut over to the propane option. It is also nice not having to keep treated fuel around.
I know Honda is slow for changes but the units sold today are almost the same as those sold in 2001. Well engineered, dependable and very serviceable. They even make it easier to drain the carb of gas with a screw valve on the carb bowl with a fuel line that runs to the outside for draining into another container.
The double up is for disaster scenarios if needed. I can easily drive an old plasma TV, internet, freezer, refrigerator and lighting with a single EU2000i. Here is a guy paralleling 4 of them.
Christmas : could not respond. I apologize ; it was foolish of me not to mention wattage!! Blame it on Santa and the darn cookies my 7 year old demanded!!
Yes: Looking for something around 150 watt max. Basically to charge a laptop and/or few other small electronic sundries which take more than the usual 5V to charge.
Jeep Cherokee has 110V.
I looked at Amazon, Bestec model for 300W. The reason I started this thread is exactly the point highlighted.
(a) Can the alternator support it? If yes, what should be a fail-safe wattage before kingdom come or fuse blown?
(b) Location: The truck 12V outlet would like to use, primarily because need it in my back-seat.
(c) Yes: The all important question: sine wave - pure? Is that really that important? If yes: what should I look for.
Yes: Looking for something around 150 watt max. Basically to charge a laptop and/or few other small electronic sundries which take more than the usual 5V to charge.
Jeep Cherokee has 110V.
I looked at Amazon, Bestec model for 300W. The reason I started this thread is exactly the point highlighted.
(a) Can the alternator support it? If yes, what should be a fail-safe wattage before kingdom come or fuse blown?
(b) Location: The truck 12V outlet would like to use, primarily because need it in my back-seat.
(c) Yes: The all important question: sine wave - pure? Is that really that important? If yes: what should I look for.
You won't be able to support 300 watts through the console outlet. It's got a 15 amp fuse (no, don't put a higher one in...fire risk) and that's only about 150 watts after inverter losses. It needs to be connected directly to the battery by routing wires. Some of those inverters come with the 12V outlet adapter, but they'll only operate at lower watts so its kind of waste if that's how you'll install it.
If you only need 150 watts then get an inverter sized about that and run it to the console. Yes, get pure sine wave. Look for description. If it says "modified sine wave", it is not pure and may damage electronics. The Bestek don't even say that and they are extremely cheap. $30? You can bet it put outs garbage power. This is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Eventually I will be installing an inverter in mine too. I had it for over a year, but I have not installed it yet.
I pick up broken flat TVs and it would be nice, if I could try them out before I hand over the cash.
I was thinking, that I should install it,in the rear side pocket, on the right side(passenger).
I just have to extend my amp cable to the back. I have an open output for this already.
I pick up broken flat TVs and it would be nice, if I could try them out before I hand over the cash.
I was thinking, that I should install it,in the rear side pocket, on the right side(passenger).
I just have to extend my amp cable to the back. I have an open output for this already.
To run high amperage 12V any distance you need large gauge copper wires to avoid serious loss. On the other hand, 110v cable is much smaller, cheaper, lighter and has less loss per foot. So, it might make sense to mount the inverter closer to the battery with a 110v outlet mounted in the cargo area.
Excellent point. I'll look at the owner manual to check the Amp ratings for the outlet in the trunk and match up to the amp required to charge the electronic sundries I intend to charge. If the wiring supports it, great. Else, I'd definitely look at hooking up a 150W inverter near the battery and running wires off it.
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- 2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD, Moonroof/ Bose and Tech package
If I were to want to put 2 110v outlets in, could I use one inverter and run the cables from it? Shouldn't have problems with that right? I am planning on putting one on the back side of the center console, should be enough space there, saw someone do aftermarket vents there, and then one in the far back. Has anyone created a how to for this?
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- 2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD, Moonroof/ Bose and Tech package
Thinking about doing this too, I would like to put an inverter in the engine bay and then run wire to the back side of the center console, and to the rear of the car.
Is this possible to do? I am thinking of putting everything in to handle a max of 400W, though I do not think I will ever get close to that.
I am thinking I should have an auto kill when the car is not running, is this possible and how would I accomplish that? I do not think a relay can handle the amps for it.
Is this possible to do? I am thinking of putting everything in to handle a max of 400W, though I do not think I will ever get close to that.
I am thinking I should have an auto kill when the car is not running, is this possible and how would I accomplish that? I do not think a relay can handle the amps for it.
