alternator and time belt tension
- Thread starter CmazdaX9
- Start date
To clarify, your timing belt is not associated with your alternator. It is entirely concealed and tension is non adjustable; it is set by a tensioner. This is no the belt you're working on.
The serpentine belt (or alternator belt) has to be over tightened to stop it from squealing. Going by a best practice or factory setting will not stop squealing on this engine. It is a poorly designed system. Trial and error is the only way to stop it. Still squealing? Tighten it more. But I only recommend doing this on a new belt. Some claim they've destroy alternator bearings and water pump bearings by over tensioning. I have not had this issue, but I set tension on new belt that wasn't worn or glazed.
The serpentine belt (or alternator belt) has to be over tightened to stop it from squealing. Going by a best practice or factory setting will not stop squealing on this engine. It is a poorly designed system. Trial and error is the only way to stop it. Still squealing? Tighten it more. But I only recommend doing this on a new belt. Some claim they've destroy alternator bearings and water pump bearings by over tensioning. I have not had this issue, but I set tension on new belt that wasn't worn or glazed.
This is how the FSM says to check your belt deflection...
I personally find it difficult to reach and even see in there at an angle to try and measure 10 mm... not to mention trying to guesstimate pushing my finger down with 22 lbs. of force...
I just reach in and twist the belt as mentioned.
PS... I cheat a little and don't bother loosening the bottom pivot bolt on the alternator. The adjuster bolt has enough power to move it. You can help it along a bit by pushing on it. I've wedged a hammer handle in there to help it along.
That way you don't have to lift or crawl under your car.
One guy here on the forum striped that bottom bolt and opened up a huge can of worms.
I personally find it difficult to reach and even see in there at an angle to try and measure 10 mm... not to mention trying to guesstimate pushing my finger down with 22 lbs. of force...
I just reach in and twist the belt as mentioned.
PS... I cheat a little and don't bother loosening the bottom pivot bolt on the alternator. The adjuster bolt has enough power to move it. You can help it along a bit by pushing on it. I've wedged a hammer handle in there to help it along.
That way you don't have to lift or crawl under your car.
One guy here on the forum striped that bottom bolt and opened up a huge can of worms.
Last edited:
thanks for reply, sorry made a mistake about belts it the alternator and water pump belts ,not the timing belt that I need to adjust
Hi Paul, had to rebuild the 2 front fenders and the 2 rear wheel arches because of rust not perfect yet but trying my best
HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL & GOD BLESS
Hi Paul, had to rebuild the 2 front fenders and the 2 rear wheel arches because of rust not perfect yet but trying my best
HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL & GOD BLESS
Last edited:
I just had new belts put in yesterday but are squealing like there is no tomorrow. I'm trying not to drive the car as I don't want to glaze the belts. a few minutes of terrible squealing cause the belts to glaze?
So did you have to remove anything to reach that adjuster bolt? I guess I am worried about overtightening it as I really have no experience with this. I had new belts put in yesterday but they have been squealing pretty bad so I'm hoping they aren't already glazed.
Can you tell me how you just adjusted the adjustment bolt? The more detail the better lol. Any way of knowing that it is overtight?
Thanks man! Cheers
dave
Can you tell me how you just adjusted the adjustment bolt? The more detail the better lol. Any way of knowing that it is overtight?
Thanks man! Cheers
dave
This is how the FSM says to check your belt deflection...
I personally find it difficult to reach and even see in there at an angle to try and measure 10 mm... not to mention trying to guesstimate pushing my finger down with 22 lbs. of force...
I just reach in and twist the belt as mentioned.
PS... I cheat a little and don't bother loosening the bottom pivot bolt on the alternator. The adjuster bolt has enough power to move it. You can help it along a bit by pushing on it. I've wedged a hammer handle in there to help it along.
That way you don't have to lift or crawl under your car.
One guy here on the forum striped that bottom bolt and opened up a huge can of worms.
Loosen lock bolt "A"... Tighten adjuster bolt "C"... And ignore pivot bolt "B"...
I wedged a hammer handle between the alternator and the engine to push it.
You have to do it blind but you can do it from the top. Just reach in behind to get to the adjuster bolt.
A bit of a side note... When I was turning the adjuster bolt my wrench spun up and hit the positive lug of the alternator and blew the main fuse. That's a PITA because you have to remove the fuse box in the engine bay and unbolt the fuse under it.
Then I did it again because I forgot about doing it the first time so I put a rubber grommet on the alternator lug like there was supposed to be...
I wedged a hammer handle between the alternator and the engine to push it.
You have to do it blind but you can do it from the top. Just reach in behind to get to the adjuster bolt.
A bit of a side note... When I was turning the adjuster bolt my wrench spun up and hit the positive lug of the alternator and blew the main fuse. That's a PITA because you have to remove the fuse box in the engine bay and unbolt the fuse under it.
Then I did it again because I forgot about doing it the first time so I put a rubber grommet on the alternator lug like there was supposed to be...
Just go ahead and increase the tension. Continue driving until you can, but the sooner the better. Glazing really isn't the issue here. The serpentine system just isn't designed properly.
Latest posts
-
2016~2023 CX-9 DIY Cylinder head replacement (workshop/service manual)
- Latest: Silly Wabbit
-
-