Questions about sway bars

BigBlueDart

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2012 Mazda2 Touring MT
So, I posted in another thread that my CS rear torsion bar busted a weld. This seems to be a common issue for folks who have gotten this product. As I consider how to replace this I've got just a few questions:

1. Should I avoid the Corksport bar as faulty, or is this a problem that similar bars are going to have (like DDM Works)?

2. I still have the stock front sway bar. Would the CS front sway bar be an upgrade worth getting for me (spirited daily driver, hope for occasional non-competitive autocross/track day)? Would it be best to pair this with the CS rear torsion bar, or would it work just as well with the DDM Works bar?

This is not meant to be a fine-tuned STF or track build, by any means. I'm just looking for something that will be easily controllable on the road and respond well. I am not lowered right now, but plan to do so. Right now I'm thinking that will happen with the CS springs and struts.
 
Just a note about SCCA Autocross: For Street class (aka stock) you can only change one sway bar. A rear stiffener counts. Do more than that and you are bumped into STF.

Also, I like my CS rear bar. I'll be awarded the local HS class trophy next month, and I've got pics showing my car on three wheels frequently on course - so I drive very spiritedly.
 
I've heard from those that know more than me in this regard that aluminum is not the ideal material for a torsion bar...and since the CS bar is aluminum, I'm guessing that has something to do with the breakages. I've broken my CS bar as well. If I had to spend money on a torsion bar, I'd get the steel DDM works torsion bar. I also have the CS front bar, which I like.
 
Yeah, my understanding is that aluminum welds are more brittle. I didn't realize that the CS and DDM products were different in that regard, so thanks for the knowledge. So, do you think that the DDM rear bar would pair well with the CS front bar? Would it be worth it for a non-competitive driver such as myself, or is a stiffer front sway bar more something for someone trying to fine tune his suspension and shave off another half second?
 
I was under the impression CS changed the material they used for the bar a while back? I could be wrong though
 
I think you will like the addition of both bars. The DDM bar will work just fine with the CS fsb. Some of the more serious autocross guys actually run extra stiff springs and stock or no front bar to help with wheelspin out of a corner. Since I originally had softer springs (RB) I wanted the bars on both ends to help reduce the body roll. The front bar helped even more than I had expected, and actually helps provoke more oversteer (in addition to much sharper turn-in). The only downer to the front bar is that the installation is a bit tedious.
 
DDMWorks bar is great and I highly recommend it.

Just do one bar unless you want bumped to STF(and do all the other stuff needed to keep up).
 
I don't intend to race competitively, so what classification I'm in doesn't matter to me. If I ever manage to make it to an autocross it will just be to drive around some cones screaming like a teenage girl.
 
How is the CS rear torsion bar in the winter, driving on snow?
Or do most people take it off for the winter in snowy climes?
 
I never take mine off. But we haven't had much snow this year. For DD, I use all-season tires.
 
I kept my DDMWorks bar on during winter when I lived in Ohio.

And I still had 700/550# springs when we got ~4in of snow and I drove 50mi home in it from Newport News to VA Beach a month or so ago.

Use snow tires.

Go slow(ish). You'll be fine.
 

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