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Thread: Replacing front and rear struts - what else to replace while in there?

  1. #1
    2010 Sport Phoenix42's Avatar


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    Replacing front and rear struts - what else to replace while in there?

    Picked up a set of FSD over the summer for my 2010 Mazda5 - after 60k it is getting a little soft & bouncy. What should I also replace while I have things apart? Not interesting in lowing the ride height. Just don't want to open it back up next year to replace a bump stop or mount.
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    "The One And Only" Davicho's Avatar

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    Since you are not interested in lowering then all I can recommend is to replace your rear brakes if you need them since you have the wheels off, otherwise just replace the upper shock mount along with the shock. There is very little effort needed to replace the rear shocks.
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    2010 Sport Phoenix42's Avatar


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    Thanks!

    Any thoughts on the fronts, should the mounts also be replaced there? I'm also planning on replacing the bump stops front and back.
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    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix42 View Post
    Thanks!

    Any thoughts on the fronts, should the mounts also be replaced there? I'm also planning on replacing the bump stops front and back.
    Judging by the quality products and care you are already performing, you can do the front upper mounts also. This is not a frugal act, and some will say it is not needed, just like the rear upper mounts. However if you lean towards the do it once, do it right philosophy, I would do them. They are part rubber isolators, they have been through a lot of stress and vibrations, and will not offer the same level of NVH dampening as a new one will. Not to mention if you are in a salted area, there can be some corrosion to the metals.

    I look forward to hearing your feedback. I really enjoyed the Koni FSD's on mine, they gave both the ride comfort and handling performance I wanted. About the only thing that would get me to upgrade from them, would have been a driver adjustable electronic shock system like Mazda used from the Mid 80's to mid 90's.

    My buddy is a dealer mechanic, and he used a wonderful wall mounted strut spring compressor to do the job for my fronts. MUCH MUCH safer and quicker than attempting to do by hand with the scary spring compressing sticks. Even if you are doing the work yourself, I feel it is worth it having a shop do this step for you, it takes a mechanic less than 10 minutes for swapping the springs on the 2 struts.
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  5. #5
    Mazda5 the Anti-Van thaxman's Avatar


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    I would check end links and swaybar bushings. I realize that by '10 the bad bushings have pretty much been gone through, but a bad bushing will chew up an endlink faster than you think.
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    2010 Sport Phoenix42's Avatar


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    Struts went in yesterday. After 60k the rears had minimal rebound, so anything would be better. Hardest part was getting the fronts out - we had to shorten the spring compressors. With the FSD lane changes have minimal body roll, more like driving a car then a mini-van, I'm looking forward to out next long drive being nice and smooth.

    After all the work I hope my wife appreciates them Definitely will be putting in a set on my hatchback3 the next time they are on sale.
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  7. #7
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    Are you saying you had to compress the front coils before removing. I'm stuck here thinking this may be the solution but have rented coil compressors that won't fit up in there.

  8. #8
    2010 Sport Phoenix42's Avatar


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    The spring compressors are cheap enough to buy https://smile.amazon.com/ABN-MacPher.../dp/B00SX5RSA4 - I had to replace my buddies.

    I'm delighted with how the FSDs handle, but there is a noise in the rear suspension somewhere low down, that we've not been able to resolve. I'm debating putting stocks back in there
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  9. #9
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix42 View Post
    The spring compressors are cheap enough to buy https://smile.amazon.com/ABN-MacPher.../dp/B00SX5RSA4 - I had to replace my buddies.

    I'm delighted with how the FSDs handle, but there is a noise in the rear suspension somewhere low down, that we've not been able to resolve. I'm debating putting stocks back in there
    The lower shock mount on the rear must be torqued to spec or you will get a rattle...
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    The lower shock mount on the rear must be torqued to spec or you will get a rattle...
    +1 I Do not have a big torque wrench. Tightened up the job, got a decent rattle and clunk! Tightened somewhat past my comfort zone on a 1/2in wrench - fixed.

  11. #11
    2010 Sport Phoenix42's Avatar


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    Thanks mazdadude and Primergy, I'll give that a try.

    Found it
    Tighten bottom 17mm bolt (56.35-74.49 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)
    Tighten top 2-12mm bolts (15.7-21.2 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)

    from: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...ks-Replacement
    Last edited by Phoenix42; 07-22-2016 at 09:17 AM.
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  12. #12
    2010 Sport Phoenix42's Avatar


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    Life gets in the way, it took until this month till I was able to get over to my buddy's house. All that it took was cranking down on that bottom bolt some more, I think to about 80ft/lb. We did pop out the shock and measured the width at the bolt hole, and the FSD is a millimeter or two thinner then OEM, so I suspect this is a factor. While in there this time, we did replace the front end links which solved a small clunk. Car i much happier now

    I also put FSDs on my 2008 Mazda3 hatchback over the winter, it very much needed the front end links as well. Both cars ride great on the FSDs.
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