Mazda CX-5 Touring won't start?

The brake stiffening up is normal. There is a vacuum reservoir that holds a very limited volume of vacuum to assist with the brakes when the engine is not generating a vacuum (wide open throttle, not running....). It allows a limited number of brake applications before being exhausted, which is one of the reasons to not shut off an engine if the throttle is jammed (use neutral) Try applying the power assisted brakes in any car with the engine off and you will find that after a couple applications the brake is much stiffer though fully functional.

If the problem is associated with the brakes it is likely the switch isn't adjusted correctly and the brakes pedal needs to be pressed too far before the car starts.
 
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Thanks for the input! So what am I supposed to do when the brake is completely tight when entering the car? It will not press down at all and it needs to be to sense the key.

Many people online have been saying it is because of the cold weather...The two times this happened to me was when the car was parked outside without being driven for to days. I feel like there has to be something fixed so this doesn't happen. I drove my 97 honda for 7 years before this and never experienced it once.
 
Thanks for the input! So what am I supposed to do when the brake is completely tight when entering the car? It will not press down at all and it needs to be to sense the key.

Many people online have been saying it is because of the cold weather...The two times this happened to me was when the car was parked outside without being driven for to days. I feel like there has to be something fixed so this doesn't happen. I drove my 97 honda for 7 years before this and never experienced it once.


There is clearly something wrong with your car and the dealer needs to fix it. What will help the dealer is a very detailed report. Example.

measuring the brake pedal travel with a ruler I get ( fill in) This is measured from rest to pressing the pedal as hard as possible with one foot.
When the car will start, the pedal travels ( fill in ) inches before the green light comes on. My CX-5 pedal travels 1/4 in before the light goes on.
It might also be useful to know if you sit in the car and press the pedal for about a minute, will it finally move far enough to turn on the green start light and allow you to start the car?
 
I pumped the brake a couple times to completely use the vacuum reserve. Then I slowly pressed the brake to see when the start button turned green. It turned green just as the brake started to give some resistance (about 1/4 inch as fdew mentioned). It was also at the same time the brake lights came on ( I could see the reflection in the mirror). So, if your pressing the brakes minimally the brake lights should come on at the same time the start turns green. If you have to press the brake so it travels significantly ( > 1/2 inch) before the brake light goes on the switch is misadjusted. If your brake lights go on, but the start button doesn't turn green there is something else wrong.

I looked at the wiring diagram and the wire from the brake switch goes directly to the rear lights and the start stop module. But I noticed that on the way to the start/stop module it goes through the neutral safety switch on the transmission. Is it possible that the transmission isn't completely in park ? Could be misadjusted, if you wiggle it a bit does it start ? The car doesn't have to be running for the gearshift to be unlocked, just press the start button until it is in "run" position.
 
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I pumped the brake a couple times to completely use the vacuum reserve. Then I slowly pressed the brake to see when the start button turned green. It turned green just as the brake started to give some resistance (about 1/4 inch as fdew mentioned). It was also at the same time the brake lights came on ( I could see the reflection in the mirror). So, if your pressing the brakes minimally the brake lights should come on at the same time the start turns green. If you have to press the brake so it travels significantly ( > 1/2 inch) before the brake light goes on the switch is misadjusted. If your brake lights go on, but the start button doesn't turn green there is something else wrong.

I looked at the wiring diagram and the wire from the brake switch goes directly to the rear lights and the start stop module. But I noticed that on the way to the start/stop module it goes through the neutral safety switch on the transmission. Is it possible that the transmission isn't completely in park ? Could be misadjusted, if you wiggle it a bit does it start ? The car doesn't have to be running for the gearshift to be unlocked, just press the start button until it is in "run" position.


The poster said his brake was abnormally stiff after sitting all night. This isn't an uncommon problem or unique to the cx-5 (although on a new car it is, and for this forum it also is). This is usually caused by a slow leak of the brake booster vacuum reserve overnight. The dealer should be very familiar with ways to test and repair this, and it will be covered under warranty.
 
Thanks for the input! So what am I supposed to do when the brake is completely tight when entering the car? It will not press down at all and it needs to be to sense the key.

Many people online have been saying it is because of the cold weather...The two times this happened to me was when the car was parked outside without being driven for to days. I feel like there has to be something fixed so this doesn't happen. I drove my 97 honda for 7 years before this and never experienced it once.


You might have to stand on the brake until the key light comes on. Then drive it to the dealer and tell them that after sitting overnight, the brake becomes difficult to move but is fine after the engine starts. They shouldn't have to repeat this for themselves in order to test for vacuum leaks, but you need to be specific in your description (don't just say "it wont start", there's 50+ reasons it might not start but very few reasons why the brake is stiff in the morning)

Plenty of Hondas have check valves and gaskets leak in their brake boosters too. It's not a rare problem and is relatively easy to fix once diagnosed.
 
Thanks Craigo,

I mentioned to the dealer that I think it is a leak in the vacuum. I am waiting to hear back. I had the car towed there, but of course, it started right up when they got the car.

They also mentioned that the new CX-5 has had complaints about some faulty parts having to do with the start button. The dealership is checking if that is the issue and if it is, mazda will send the new parts.
 
Thanks Craigo,

I mentioned to the dealer that I think it is a leak in the vacuum. I am waiting to hear back. I had the car towed there, but of course, it started right up when they got the car.

They also mentioned that the new CX-5 has had complaints about some faulty parts having to do with the start button. The dealership is checking if that is the issue and if it is, mazda will send the new parts.

Hopefully they will commit to keeping it overnight to duplicate the problem?

2016 models have the new electronic Parking e-brake. Can you feel the parking brake system activate and deactivate in the brake pedal?
 
Yep they have had it for two nights and have not replicated the problem. I do feel the e brake working when the brake is not tight.

I just got a call from them and they are replacing the push start button system. I'm not really sure why, because there was no problem found with it, but I guess I'll see if that helps!
 
Yep they have had it for two nights and have not replicated the problem. I do feel the e brake working when the brake is not tight.

I just got a call from them and they are replacing the push start button system. I'm not really sure why, because there was no problem found with it, but I guess I'll see if that helps!
Do you have anybody in your household that could be entering the vehicle, pressing the pedal while playing, listening to music, making out, etc.?
 
Yep they have had it for two nights and have not replicated the problem. I do feel the e brake working when the brake is not tight.

I just got a call from them and they are replacing the push start button system. I'm not really sure why, because there was no problem found with it, but I guess I'll see if that helps!


That wouldn't explain or help why your brake pedal is too stiff to push. Are they aware of that?
 
Update: Got my car from the shop today. They were unable to identify anything wrong with the car. They did check the vacuum/brake booster.

They are ordering a new push start button because that is what Mazda tech told them to do. I guess 6 cars in the country have had failed push start buttons...

I'll keep you guys updated if this happens to my car again and also if the new button helps.
 
Can someone point me to where the vacuum hose is on the cx-5? I am trying to do some tests at home and not sure exactly which is the hose.
 
Can someone point me to where the vacuum hose is on the cx-5? I am trying to do some tests at home and not sure exactly which is the hose.

Start on the firewall, find the big black power brake booster attached to the firewall underneath the brake fluid reservoir. Vacuum line is attached to this booster, as well as a one way check valve to prevent vacuum loss.
 
This same problem started happening to my 2014 CX-5 touring this morning (a cold morning). Ignition light is green, and brake pedal cannot be pushed down very far (feels like it's stuck). When I do push the button, there's just a click and basically all the error lights on the dash turn on. Did anyone manage to come up with a home remedy? If not, I guess I'll be calling for a tow.
 
Nevermind. I'm dumb. It was a dead battery. I didn't think this was the case because lights, nav, were working. But I noticed the horn sound was really weak when I locked it, so I got a jump and it started fine. Sorry for creating noise around this issue.
 
Can someone point me to where the vacuum hose is on the cx-5? I am trying to do some tests at home and not sure exactly which is the hose.

There are a couple. I'd use the one on the intake manifold below the throttle body. Its not inline with the pcv so its more consistent. Ill get a pic later. You can easily reroite these lines with some 3/8 hose from autozone, vacuum tees and clamp
I wouldn't reference anything or piggy back off the brake booster. And defintely dont put a turbo vacuum line over there.
 
Have the same issue with my 2013 CX-5!!!

Happened to me again today :/

My brake was already stiff when I got in the car and it would not sense the key. Having it towed in..

My Mazda does the same thing. Can't press pedal and nothing electrical works!!! Can go out 1-5 hours later and it can start right up. Had it in Mazda service and they could not duplicate the problem, so they
can't find anything to fix. About to trade it in to Mazda and let them deal with it. Can't trust it past the driveway.
 
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