Mazda CX-5 Touring won't start?

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speedyboy13

:
2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Today before heading to work, my car wouldn't start.

The brake pedal was locked and there was no sound of the engine starting at all. The car's audio and lights turned on, so it's not a battery issue right? Does the radio and lights turn on still even if the battery is dead?

I finally got the car to start after waiting an hour.

Has this happened to anyone else? It's possible that I left my car in accessory mode but my manual says that it automatically turns off after 25 minutes...

My car only has 350 miles on it so a bit concerned.

Thanks for the input.


Note*** I just read that pressing the start button twice (without foot on the brake) turns the car ignition mode to on. Could this of been my problem perhaps?
 
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Was the brake pedal fully depressed when pushing the start and held until the engine was fully started? If you release the pedal too early, it won't start and/or will cut off. This happens to new owners sometimes.

Where was the key fob? If the fob is in a location where it can't be reliably scanned, it won't start. The manual warns about the cupholder (I've actually never had problems with the cupholder) but other possibilities include being in a bag or pack near a source of interference. Does the dash show any strange key lights?
 
The brake pedal was pushed down all the way. And the key fob was in my pocket, as it always is. The dash would show the ACC lights for a few seconds but then turn off. I did not notice any strange key lights on.

The biggest question I have is why the brake was very tight/locked? Doesn't this usually happen when the battery is dead?

Also, I just went in my car to test out scenarios that could of happened. There is no way I left it in ACC mode because the car beeps continuously when you get out.
 
I'm confused. You said that the brake pedal was pushed all the way down, but also said that it was very tight/locked. I think of those as being mutually exclusive. If you pump the pedal when the car is not on, it tightens and seems "locked", but you would not describe that as all the way down. This is caused by hydraulics and has nothing to do with the battery. Since the car is new and you did eventually get it started, I'd just wait and see if it happens again. Could be something you were doing that you've now stopped doing. Otherwise take it back to the dealer.
 
Read the owners manual about the advanced push button start. The key light in the dash and the light in the push button give you the status of the system by the color of the lights displayed.
 
robertmazda said:
I'm confused. You said that the brake pedal was pushed all the way down, but also said that it was very tight/locked. I think of those as being mutually exclusive. If you pump the pedal when the car is not on, it tightens and seems "locked", but you would not describe that as all the way down. This is caused by hydraulics and has nothing to do with the battery. Since the car is new and you did eventually get it started, I'd just wait and see if it happens again. Could be something you were doing that you've now stopped doing. Otherwise take it back to the dealer.
Click to expand...


Sorry. The pedal was tight/locked and it was pushed down as far as it does while being locked. After doing more research I think its because the car wasn't recognizing my key or that the battery was dead.

From what it sounds like, the cars audio and lights still turn on when the car's battery is dead. Can anyone confirm this?
 
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speedyboy13 said:
Sorry. The pedal was tight/locked and it was pushed down as far as it does while being locked. After doing more research I think its because the car wasn't recognizing my key or that the battery was dead.

From what it sounds like, the cars audio and lights still turn on when the car's battery is dead. Can anyone confirm this?
Click to expand...

Very nebulous description. When diagnosing an issue it pays to be very specific and say exactly what you mean so there is no ambiguity.

Your statements are confusing in part because I can't imagine there is anyone who believes the lights will turn on when the battery is dead. It is possible for the battery to have enough power to illuminate some lights but still have not enough power to run the ECU or crank the engine.

If this happens again, make sure to look at the warning lights on the dash. It will let you know whether it senses and recognizes your key. It's impossible to say for sure based only on your description but perhaps you drained the battery too low to start the vehicle but, after sitting for a while, the battery provided enough voltage and current for a successful start.
 
speedyboy13 said:
Sorry. The pedal was tight/locked and it was pushed down as far as it does while being locked. After doing more research I think its because the car wasn't recognizing my key or that the battery was dead.

From what it sounds like, the cars audio and lights still turn on when the car's battery is dead. Can anyone confirm this?
Click to expand...


A green key icon will illuminate if the car can read the fob when the brake pedal is pushed. Still not sure about this 'locked' brake. Was the pedal back to normal when you returned later?
 
craigo said:
A green key icon will illuminate if the car can read the fob when the brake pedal is pushed. Still not sure about this 'locked' brake. Was the pedal back to normal when you returned later?
Click to expand...

Yep. The brake pedal was back to normal once the car started. After multiple unsuccessful attempts to start my car, I sat in my seat for about 5 minutes reading the manual. I then tried again (brake was not locked anymore) and the car started.
 
speedyboy13 said:
Yep. The brake pedal was back to normal once the car started. After multiple unsuccessful attempts to start my car, I sat in my seat for about 5 minutes reading the manual. I then tried again (brake was not locked anymore) and the car started.
Click to expand...

I'm most curious about this brake pedal. It's a critical part of the start sequence, so an issue with that can cause an issue with starting, and have nothing to do with the key or battery.

- You got in your car and the brake pedal was fully depressed without you stepping on it (right?). This is not normal. How long had it been since you previously drove the car? Could you have done anything unusual like step on the pedal multiple times after turning the engine off?

- You pressed the pedal a few times while trying to start and a few minutes later it had returned to normal?
 
Seems like you pumped the brake while the engine was off or something happened that the end result was similar to it . When the the brake gets pumped and the car is off it starts to stiffen and won't depress easily or hardly move sometimes as the fluid has filled and activated the brakes.

When the brake system/pedal becomes "locked" it becomes difficult to depress the pedal enough for the ecu/sensor to recognize its pressed and trigger to start the motor .

After sometime the fluid drained back enough for you to push the brake pedal down enough for the sensor and ecu to recognize and allow the motor to start .


I'm assuming this is what happened .
 
4g63T,

This is very well what could of happened. It makes the most sense of all the scenarios. Although I do remember the brake still being stiff when it finally started..
 
speedyboy13 said:
4g63T,

This is very well what could of happened. It makes the most sense of all the scenarios. Although I do remember the brake still being stiff when it finally started..
Click to expand...

It probably got just soft enough to trigger the sensor for the ecu to start the motor but still stiff to the feel. Next time it happens just push down harder on the pedal and remember not to pump or push down on the pedal too many times when the motor is off.
 
Happened to me again today :/

My brake was already stiff when I got in the car and it would not sense the key. Having it towed in..
 
Here is a video of my car not starting:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csNrhn6YLGQ

Perhaps could of filmed into things a bit closer..

Of course the dealer called me today and said the car started no problem. They will look into it more tomorrow.

Also, I found this post on reddit, which is the exact same issue I am having:

https://www.reddit.com/r/mazda/comments/2u50k0/need_help_diagnosing_mazda_cx5_starting_issue/

I messaged the guy, and he thinks it's because the car get's too cold and the hydraulics stiffen up. I think that's definitely not the case. No way these cars can't handle some cold weather.
 
Vacuum leak in the brake booster. Cool weather can tighten things up to the point a small leak opens, leaving you without reserve for the power assist, making it difficult to push the pedal. Not common at all, probably a small error in the manufacture of a part.
 
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Interesting. As I have been doing more research, this seems like it could be the problem. Is there any way to tell if there is a leak without taking it to the shop?
 
First try the other key. If that has the same reaction bring the key to the push button as if the battery was dead in the key fob . (both fobs, check manual) If this does not work check to see if your brake lights are on when stepping on the brake. There has to be a connection between the brake light circuit and the starting circuit. Could be a weak battery in the fob or the other brake problem listed above. Then check to see if it is in park or go from park to neutral doing the starting procedure both places. If I were you I would take it back let them keep it for awhile so someone there will get stranded. Please keep us informed of the outcome. Remember usually lemon laws state you have to take it back to the dealer a certain amount of times or they have to have it in the shop for let say 30 days. I would read the law then start making records. Make sure you get a record every time it goes to the shop.
 
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Sounds good Tom. I will definitely keep you posted. I honestly think it is the vacuum. Because I can't try any of those solutions (moving to neutral/drive, etc or push down the brake to see if the brake light is on) because the brake is stiff and won't push down. So whatever is causing the break to stiffen up, is the problem.
 
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