Amp install on 2016 GT with Bose.

Im planning install a sub amp to my cx-5 but then I noticed something about our Bose system. When the Fade is set all the way to the rear, there is still some bass coming from the front door 9" woofers. Can anybody else with a Bose system confirm this? Maybe thats why there isn't a subwoofer in our 16 CX-5's because Bose decided to use front door 9" woofers as a subwoofer alternative.

If this is the case, the rear speaker wires would be a bad source to tap for the LOC. Since the Bose amp has sent ALL the low frequency sounds to the front woofers. Like others have done earlier in this thread, tapping the front woofer wires should give a much better signal for the sub amp.
 
Last edited:
You are correct Dnut999. It's reduced but the lowest bass is still there (in the front) with the fader set all the way to the rear.
 
Im planning install a sub amp to my cx-5 but then I noticed something about our Bose system. When the Fade is set all the way to the rear, there is still some bass coming from the front door 9" woofers. Can anybody else with a Bose system confirm this? Maybe thats why there isn't a subwoofer in our 16 CX-5's because Bose decided to use front door 9" woofers as a subwoofer alternative.

If this is the case, the rear speaker wires would be a bad source to tap for the LOCusic listening.. Since the Bose amp has sent ALL the low frequency sounds to the front woofers. Like others have done earlier in this thread, tapping the front woofer wires should give a much better signal for the sub amp.
Bose claimed "A pair of 9-inch (23cm) Nd woofers -- one in each front door -- delivers deep, low-frequency output from a package much slimmer than conventional speakers. This makes it possible to position the woofers unobtrusively into tight but acoustically advantageous spaces, without sacrificing performance." Added Centerpoint Surround Technology, the tweeter-less 9-speaker Bose system in CX-5 is very front-center heavy, suitable for movie watching, not for music listening. The rear D-pillar speakers serves as rear channels for surround sound system which rarely have any sound.

Yeah, you should tap the front speaker wires for your sub amp as the low-pass signals are provided to the front door "woofers".
 
While nothing made by Blose is "good", a GOOD woofer doesn't need a subwoofer, it will go as deep as any musical note, with low distortion.
 
Well here is the finished product. Pretty happy with the look and sound. the 10 sounds better than my 12 did.
I still need to figure out this LC2i and tuning it, but there is plenty of bass.








How is the box held in place? What prevents it from falling out of that area during hard cornering? Is it just pressure fit or did they use Velcro or something?
 
Well here is the finished product. Pretty happy with the look and sound. the 10 sounds better than my 12 did.
I still need to figure out this LC2i and tuning it, but there is plenty of bass.









My only ever concern with this setup (which I love btw, it looks fanatastic and is what I would want) is the BCM located behind it. I know you can put amps and such on sub boxes and be fine also the electronic parts are rated for road conditions, I just I dunno it worries me how close it is to the rear BCM. The other side it would not matter on of course.
 
How is the box held in place? What prevents it from falling out of that area during hard cornering? Is it just pressure fit or did they use Velcro or something?

the bottom of the box goes into the pocket, but other than that it isn't being held in by anything else.
 
the bottom of the box goes into the pocket, but other than that it isn't being held in by anything else.

Hmm, I'd love to see some more pics of how it goes in and what it looks like on the back side.
 
Nice work! I was thinking of attempting something like that, but I have chickened out.
I went with, the spare wheel sub instead. It was cheap, practical and sounds good.
How do you like the sub? It is great right? I have the same one in my spare wheel.
 
So I got around to installing my AMP and HiLo convertor today.

I tapped into the front door speaker wires from the bose amp. Soldered them and taped them up. Ran the speaker wire from the passenger side to the drivers side under the center console.


Assuming I purchase a powered subwoofer with built in amp (and with bass knob included) I want to make sure I have this right.

1. Should the green/white (3D) and brown/yellow (3C) be tapped as inputs into my sub w/built in amp.
2. The sub has a wired remote bass knob, should a hilo convertor still be required?
3. 72Dime tapped into the black/yellow(3E) and light green(3F) and soldered to a white wire (going to his hilo convertor?), would I even need to tap in to those two wires when connecting to a powered sub?

Thanks. I would want to install myself but may go to a shop if I get flustered.
 
how did you get under the center console ? did you remove one seat both seats or what ? i need to run my rca from passenger seat to driver seat .
passanger side with factory amp
12899805_10209088107183814_1834520747_n.jpg


driver side where i want to put amp
12939631_10209097160610144_464611624_n.jpg
 
so i thought i had everything hooked up . when i went to test it all there was no bass but sub looked like it wants to jump out the box and it sounded like s*** . i went back to the shop where i got the line out converter https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) they said they hooked it to the back speakers . they said they will try the front speakers monday . do you think this is the problem or do i need to get the lc2i https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) and hook that up ? if it doesnt fix the problem i guess i wont have a sub in this vehicle .

the lc2i says 400w max does this mean i cant or it is pointless to use more then a 500w amp ?
 
so i thought i had everything hooked up . when i went to test it all there was no bass but sub looked like it wants to jump out the box and it sounded like s*** . i went back to the shop where i got the line out converter https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) they said they hooked it to the back speakers . they said they will try the front speakers monday . do you think this is the problem or do i need to get the lc2i https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) and hook that up ? if it doesnt fix the problem i guess i wont have a sub in this vehicle .

the lc2i says 400w max does this mean i cant or it is pointless to use more then a 500w amp ?

that 400 watt max rating is for the inputs of the lc2i. has nothing to do with the output of your amp. If your sub is moving with no bass being produced it sounds to me like a phase issue. The sub could be wired wrong. Also my first post. Should be getting a 16 CX-5 with bose in the near future and I plan on installing my amp and subs as well. Glad to find an active community with helpful information. I actually already have an lc2i that I used previously. Guess I'll be using it again. :)
 
that 400 watt max rating is for the inputs of the lc2i. has nothing to do with the output of your amp. If your sub is moving with no bass being produced it sounds to me like a phase issue. The sub could be wired wrong. Also my first post. Should be getting a 16 CX-5 with bose in the near future and I plan on installing my amp and subs as well. Glad to find an active community with helpful information. I actually already have an lc2i that I used previously. Guess I'll be using it again. :)

i got it fixed . dont count on audio stores to do anything right lol . i only went to em for the line out converter cuz i wanted proof i went to a so called pro to get it installed just in case . but i got the kicker cheap line out converter and its not that great def go with the lc2i or better . the lack of bass was do to wireing it in wrong they said they did it to the back speakers so i went back and they re wired it the way our friend on here shows and it worked . but after that i asked them to tune the amp and they jacked it up well past the mon line on my amp and 10 min down the road my sub started smoking lol . lucky i ordered through amazon which replaced the sub no issue . when i got the new sub i called alpine and asked what they set theres amps at for that 12 type R 1000w and they said take it to the mon on the 1100w amp and told me the rest of the settings and it thumps ok now . but it was to much for the crap box of amazon and it blew the box apart lol . so now i got my money back for that box and i got to find a new box . might go through crutchfield if i cant find anything i like better . for now i just added many screws to the box to seal it back up a little . fun times .

the onl think i cant stand is around the 40 volume settings you lose bass after 40ish and bass boost doesn't even help so i feel like i could get way better bass somehow . just havnt had time to do any more due to being sick and rain .

i was told to get something better then the kicker or the lc2i but i have to look it back up . i see if that will fix it one day . any more info would be helpfull lmk . thanks :)
 
Ya there's some processors out there that will take the eq curve from the source and flatten it out. You can also use an external graphic eq and do it manually. Since I also already have an external equalizer I'll probably use that. So my chain will be...

Bose amp to lc2i. From Lc2i to external equalizer. Then Eq to amp. How I'm going to mount everything... well ill have to brainstorm that for a little while. Lol
 
Ya there's some processors out there that will take the eq curve from the source and flatten it out. You can also use an external graphic eq and do it manually. Since I also already have an external equalizer I'll probably use that. So my chain will be...

Bose amp to lc2i. From Lc2i to external equalizer. Then Eq to amp. How I'm going to mount everything... well ill have to brainstorm that for a little while. Lol

sounds like a plan id love to see it as you do it . bounce ideas off each other or whatever . but post up as you do it plz . :)
 
Back