Skyactiv Remote Turbo Build

There is more than enough room for turbos behind the fog lights, it's tight but do able. I void turbos in the rear because it add a lot more things that can fail.

Correct PCV system would be off valve cover, to catch can, then to intake side of the turbo. This insures under boos the crank pressure does not build up higher than necessary.

Well I haven't welded my exhaust attachment yet (ordered a 2 bolt flange with a too small distance between the bolts). Just seemed like a hard place to route a very hot pipe towards the rear of the car. I'll take a look again, but the placement of the up pipe and down pipe is sketchy
 
I wonder if the throttle plate on the sky active actually closes during a shift.. on a lot of autos it never fully closes


Wouldn't that be up to your tuner? It would seem silly to adjust the valve timings and fueling parameters without coordination of the throttle plate.
 
Wouldn't that be up to your tuner? It would seem silly to adjust the valve timings and fueling parameters without coordination of the throttle plate.
I meant to say an automatic* skyactiv specifically. There is a lot of discussion about auto vs manual with boost (mainly in racing forums) because the plate on an auto never fully closes during shifting, meaning you don't lose boost (i.e less likely to build up and over boost). I would imagine it's the same on the skyactiv, I guess it'll show during tuning. Although I could try to log the TP on mazdaedit to see the max and min in between starting the car shifting, and turning it off..
 
I meant to say an automatic* skyactiv specifically. There is a lot of discussion about auto vs manual with boost (mainly in racing forums) because the plate on an auto never fully closes during shifting, meaning you don't lose boost (i.e less likely to build up and over boost). I would imagine it's the same on the skyactiv, I guess it'll show during tuning. Although I could try to log the TP on mazdaedit to see the max and min in between starting the car shifting, and turning it off..

The throttle plate is servo operated and controlled by the ECU regardless of auto or manual, no?

Isn't throttle plate position just another tuning parameter like timing, fueling, valve timing, etc.? IOW, throttle position is tunable, no?
 
Got my exhaust connection mocked up, just need the new exhaust fange to come in, and weld on the vbands/flange. The one pictured has the wrong bolt spacing.
cnPP4w7.jpg
 
It is rumored that the next Mazda CX-9 coming soon will have a turbocharged Skyactiv 2.5. If this happens than you'll be able to use that engineering as a guide that will help you figure this thing out. It might even be easier to purchase a wrecked 2017 CX9 and swap the drive train with all the electronics.

I must say you are a brave soul because this a monumental and expensive endeavor.
 
It is rumored that the next Mazda CX-9 coming soon will have a turbocharged Skyactiv 2.5. If this happens than you'll be able to use that engineering as a guide that will help you figure this thing out. It might even be easier to purchase a wrecked 2017 CX9 and swap the drive train with all the electronics.

I must say you are a brave soul because this a monumental and expensive endeavor.

Ill be buying the mani lol
 
Well I haven't welded my exhaust attachment yet (ordered a 2 bolt flange with a too small distance between the bolts). Just seemed like a hard place to route a very hot pipe towards the rear of the car. I'll take a look again, but the placement of the up pipe and down pipe is sketchy

Look at how the mustang (bg custom, Turbonetics, etc) route this piping. At most a 3inch pipe will be more than enough.

Also get it ceramic coated or wrap it to control heat. Reflective gold sheets to reflect the heat. Same princple for when you look at the fire wall and see the stamped sheets of metal that are sliver in color...aka heat shield.

Get some piping from CX racing (use alum.) to pre-design the routing.
 
Well to update, I ordered some stainless steel electrodes (mild steel doesn't seem like a good choice) in 3/32 and a copper plate because I will need to fill a gap between the vband the flex tube.
One reason why people give ebay turbos a bad name: they don't check s***. The listing claims the WG is set to open at 8 psi. I tested it with a mityvac I bought and it didn't even crack until about 18psi (I've adjusted it for max open for now). I could see how someone installing a ebay bov/wg could blow up their motor because they just took advertised numbers for granted.
 
One reason why people give ebay turbos a bad name: they don't check s***. The listing claims the WG is set to open at 8 psi. I tested it with a mityvac I bought and it didn't even crack until about 18psi (I've adjusted it for max open for now). I could see how someone installing a ebay bov/wg could blow up their motor because they just took advertised numbers for granted.

You are a very lenient consumer if you don't expect the products you buy to be delivered with the stated specs. Yes, I understand it is adjustable but, if it's advertised as being set to open at a specified pressure, it should open at that pressure without further work.
 
You are a very lenient consumer if you don't expect the products you buy to be delivered with the stated specs. Yes, I understand it is adjustable but, if it's advertised as being set to open at a specified pressure, it should open at that pressure without further work.
Yea but with these there are no specs on the box or a spec sheet. Remember this is a 1/3 2/3 priced item that needs to be inspected prior to use. You have to double check what the seller posted because it may be incorrect, and you have no way of telling if they tested it or not. Usually not because they buy these in bulk and even if the seller is correct on the information it doesn't mean it was set properly at the factory. A 5 minute or less test will save you from over boosting but a lot of these turbos are sold as part of bolt on kits where the buyer simply expects put the kit on their 10,15,20 year old Honda with no ecu tuning/external ecu, stock fuel injectors, wrong oil line size/restrictor etc and then when something fails, lambast the items on forums for their own negligence.
 
Picked up the oil pan today.. won't do any drilling on it until I get to that stage. 5qt of water in it gives me enough room to have the return above oil level. I'm using a threaded 1/2" threaded fitting but because of the lip on the pan, and the fitting on the hose, I may end up using a bung to extend it out and keep maximum height
rIkD8Qu.jpg
 
Can you share a pic of the balance shaft on the 2.5 skyactiv ?
 
I agree, don't forget that the oil will be sloshing around as the car accelerates/stops/corners. So although 5qt may be good "level" you need to account for oil movement and the potential for the vehicle sitting on an incline (I know you guys don't have hills in Texas but still...:) ) I'd look at placing it as high as possible without infringing on the lip (or the transition from the vertical surface to the lip) of the pan.
 
Once the pan is off, I may be able to see it over the pump. There is one "balancer unit" as it is referred to in mazda workshop manual, and it contains two shafts. The sprocket at the end of the shaft drives the oil pump as well. It looks to be basically the same as the MZR.

54dqhvB.png
 
If the skyactiv G and MZR are pretty much exactly the same then I guess the MZR BSR kit can be used for our cars?

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sh...roduct_info&cPath=198_240_203&products_id=431
DISI-BSD_01.JPG


Although I do not have any experience with the MZR or Skyactiv G , I did remove the Balance shaft 12 years ago on my 2003 Nissan Sentra SER-SpecV which had a 2.5 4 cylinder motor. The balance shaft looked exactly as it does on the Mazda except there was driven by a chain. I had to plug the oil feed to the balance shaft similar to the Mazda but we also had windage tray that I added to prevent oil from sloshing around with the open space created.

When I removed the bs, I did not feel any vibrations during normal driving (with oem motor mounts). What i did feel was an ever so slight vibration start at around 3.5 or 4k rpms when pretty much wide open throttle acceleration. It was real faint and only felt on the steering wheel and maybe the acceleration pedal (drive by wire) from what I remember. There were no vibrations present or rattles present in the car. If I had to describe it, it would be similar to setting your phone to vibrate, placing it on the dashboard and having that ever so slight transfer of vibration transferred from there. The motor was internally internally balanced, the bs was just added for luxury purposes. I assume its the same for Mazda.

As for performance, I never had the car dyno’d so I can not tell you how much horsepower was freed . What I can confirm is my car went from 20-21 mpg’s with my style of driving to 25-26 mpg’s.

I wonder if it will have the same effect on our car’s? We are removing a little Sprung weight (weight of the balance shaft) and Unsprung weight (rotating mass) in which the motor will idle, accelerate and hold cruising speed easier.

Having said all that, why dont you want to have your’s removed since you got the oil pan off? Even if you sell the car one day there still wont be any need to put it back in.
 
I wonder if it will have the same effect on our car’s? We are removing a little Sprung weight (weight of the balance shaft) and Unsprung weight (rotating mass) in which the motor will idle, accelerate and hold cruising speed easier.

There is no unsprung weight in the balancer assembly.
 
I won't be removing the balance shafts. More often than not people are report extra vibrations with little or no tangible gain. Also to reinstall them you have to have sprockets in the correct clock, and the piston TDC and other technical things that just aren't worth it. Plus I have a sport suspension, which most people who report undesirable vibes also have. Not to mention after I install my RMM it would probably be was too much vibrating.
 
Back