Skyactiv Remote Turbo Build

Hadn't been doing anything with it, went ahead and got back to it. Need to widen the flange hole on the U a little bit like .5mm more for proper alignment of the bolt to the header. Just gonna weld a 7-8"black pipe that has a 45 degree end (salvaged from my axle back turbo exhaust) to the flex pipe( maybe 3 Orr 4 inches), and then join the end of that to the u pipe with maybe 3 or 4" of pipe and the up pipe will be done. Clearance from the rear diff yoke seems good. Then I just need to make the DP which may be more difficult because of the less space on that side, and I may have to add an s or something. I might use one of those rigid but flexible exhaust tunes for a small portion of the dp where space is tight.

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Im sorry but those welds are terrible, you need to invest in a proper welder and spend time with someone who knows how to weld. You should be pushing a nice puddle with solid penetration. Those welds are cold as hell and are likely going to break.
Might as well take off your welded components and bring it to a professional welder.

Also consider the EGT's from FI are going to sky rocket so you can kiss that catalytic converter goodbye with a manifold setup.

If you haven't already I'd put a check valve in your brake booster line since I highly doubt the factory OE check valve is rated to see ANY kind of boost pressure.
Otherwise your pressurizing your brake booster with that setup and your going to have a loss in brake pressure during boost scenarios. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369

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Im sorry but those welds are terrible, you need to invest in a proper welder and spend time with someone who knows how to weld. You should be pushing a nice puddle with solid penetration. Those welds are cold as hell and are likely going to break.
Might as well take off your welded components and bring it to a professional welder.

Also consider the EGT's from FI are going to sky rocket so you can kiss that catalytic converter goodbye with a manifold setup.

If you haven't already I'd put a check valve in your brake booster line since I highly doubt the factory OE check valve is rated to see ANY kind of boost pressure.
Otherwise your pressurizing your brake booster with that setup and your going to have a loss in brake pressure during boost scenarios. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369

hrdp-1107-28-MIG_welding_guide.jpg

I've got check valves in the vac lines and my welding is only for prototyping. Not worth the $ to have some test a theory when I can get a working prototype for 1/5th. Also note of the welds on my rear mount broke and that was with heat, bouncing and the occasional scrape. Also thats the good thing about SMAW welding.. it's harder to do correctly but it also has more tensile strenthg so my "bad" weld is still better than the same weld with a mig or something
 
A bad weld is a bad weld, Whether its TIG, GMAW, or SMAW and cold joint will not have proper strength, no to mention pin holes. I've been welding since 2002.
Add it there continuous heat cycles, which stresses metal greatly. (think of how much Vibration is constantly happening while driving, heck even at idle.) You're going to end up with broken welds left an right. It's going to be a PITA and constant battle keeping this thing tuned if you have leaks, especially in charge piping or pre-B1S1, you'll loose spool+boost if its pre-turbo as well.

If your going to invest all this time and effort into this you might want to consider doing it the right way, once, the first time.
You'll save a lot of money and time in the end game. But hey, it's your car.
 
A bad weld is a bad weld, Whether its TIG, GMAW, or SMAW and cold joint will not have proper strength, no to mention pin holes. I've been welding since 2002.
Add it there continuous heat cycles, which stresses metal greatly. (think of how much Vibration is constantly happening while driving, heck even at idle.) You're going to end up with broken welds left an right. It's going to be a PITA and constant battle keeping this thing tuned if you have leaks, especially in charge piping or pre-B1S1, you'll loose spool+boost if its pre-turbo as well.

If your going to invest all this time and effort into this you might want to consider doing it the right way, once, the first time.
You'll save a lot of money and time in the end game. But hey, it's your car.

Again it's about saving on prototyping. Most guys around here will charge $1000 just for a custom manifold. That same amount covers the turbo, IC piping and metal material. Once I confirm fitment, and viability ( oil draining, coolant line fitting, IC piping etc, then I spend the $$ to have a professional take what I've proven and make a durable copy
 
So, where are we at 3-1/2 months later?
 
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