2016 CX-5 Audio upgrade thread

mackworth said:
I replaced the dash speakers with the Infinity 3002 3.5 speakers and everything fit back together again beautifully.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick feedback! Looking at the pictures of the infinity set you bought, it seems as though they may be a little shorter on the tweeter side. Was there plenty of room to accommodate the Polk db351's as well?

Thanks again for the response.
 
So after using the infinity 3002 for a couple days, I take back what I said about it sounding better. It sounds a little too harsh for my liking. So my question is, people using the polk 351, do you find the tweeters harsh? I am wondering if I should try those or if replacing the rear door speakers would help (or both).

Part of the problem is that I like using Centerpoint, and I wondering if all tweeters are going to sound harsh with that.
 
mackworth said:
It sounds a little too harsh for my liking. So my question is, people using the polk 351, do you find the tweeters harsh? I am wondering if I should try those or if replacing the rear door speakers would help (or both).
Click to expand...

I have no experience with the 3002's but I had some Infinity Kappa 6x8's in a previous vehicle and I always thought the tweeters seared my eardrums (never could EQ it out without killing the high-end).

Some may automatically suggest that silk dome tweeters are smoother than PEI's, but there's usually more variables involved with the speaker design to rubber-stamp that as fact.

The db351's are working well for me, although I would like to hear how the highly-rated Kicker 41KSC354's sound in the CX-5.
 
RLCarrington said:
Including all the 2016 Bose audio system wiring diagrams makes the file too big here, but I include what are hopefully the 3 most relevant ones. Hope they help! These are directly from online Mazda Service information, to which a user can get a 24 hour subscription.

View attachment 212150
Click to expand...

I think I will be installing an amp and a subwoofer on my 16 Mazda6 w/Bose, but this question also pertains to 16 CX-5 owners as well. I already know that folks (multiple years) have tapped into the front left wires brown and green/white with success.

What if you want to tap into the front speaker wires directly from the HU before the amp? Would the blue and grey wires work as per diagram #4?

Or maybe it's best to obtain the signal after the amp brown and green/white which is tried and true.
 
I have the sport 16.5 stock it sounds really good until it peaks out. I put the polks in the dash and it became bright but not bad I put in a amp running 100 rms to each speaker and installed the Alpine SPR 60 front and rear and a 10" pre amped Rockford sub. So bright it hurt your brain. Took the Polks out still way harsh. put in kickers hoping it was the Alpines still bright for me. Put in Hertz Energys front and rear. Best system I have ever had in a vehicle. Sounds so smooth and detailed. Worth the money every penny.

With that being said and with all I played with these are my thoughts and will save someone money from chasing it like I did. The way this vehicle is set up you shouldn't run anything at all in the dash unless you have components in the front door. It has a very strange acoustic sound travel in it. Roll down your back windows. Once you hit 40 the sound is some trippy reverb sound. Anyways, best way to go non bose IMO for upgrade is leave it alone unless you want more . If you amp it just coaxil in the front and rear amped to at least 75 rms with a speaker of your choice for speakers. Sub that is a personal thing. I don't need to rattle and thump just a nice low.
 
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Well I finally confirmed where to tap into the OEM front speakers for a 2016 Touring Non Bose. Pull the passenger side kick panel and the glove box. Speaker out put leads are in the large white plug. I just wrapped up this part of my project so I can connect an Audison Bit One. I will try to upload a few pics later. The overall plan is for Hertz Mille Legend tweet and mid either in the dash and a-pillar or both in the a pillar. Mille Legend midbass in the front doors. The wiring for the doors is a project for another weekend!! Single Energy 12" sub and amp / processor rack where the spare tire and foam currently takes up space. I'll try to post some pics and keep anyone that is interested up to date as I move forward.
 
Audio upgrade

freys said:
I have the sport 16.5 stock it sounds really good until it peaks out. I put the polks in the dash and it became bright but not bad I put in a amp running 100 rms to each speaker and installed the Alpine SPR 60 front and rear and a 10" pre amped Rockford sub. So bright it hurt your brain. Took the Polks out still way harsh. put in kickers hoping it was the Alpines still bright for me. Put in Hertz Energys front and rear. Best system I have ever had in a vehicle. Sounds so smooth and detailed. Worth the money every penny.

With that being said and with all I played with these are my thoughts and will save someone money from chasing it like I did. The way this vehicle is set up you shouldn't run anything at all in the dash unless you have components in the front door. It has a very strange acoustic sound travel in it. Roll down your back windows. Once you hit 40 the sound is some trippy reverb sound. Anyways, best way to go non bose IMO for upgrade is leave it alone unless you want more . If you amp it just coaxil in the front and rear amped to at least 75 rms with a speaker of your choice for speakers. Sub that is a personal thing. I don't need to rattle and thump just a nice low.
Click to expand...

I just got my 16.5 CX-5 GT and I'm interested in an upgrade similar to yours. Hertz speakers with an amp and possible sub. Can you help with some questions?

- What type of Hertz speakers did you use (front and back)?
- Was it difficult to replace the 9" fronts like others mentioned here?
- It sounded like you installed the Hertz coaxial speakers. Does that mean the 3 front and 2 rear tweeters are not utilized (empty)?
- What amp did you use?
- With the upgraded amp and speakers, is the stock head unit reasonably good enough? Would you recommend I change the head unit (Pionner, Alpine, etc..) to get better sound (but not losing the steering wheel, backup camera or other functionalities)?
- Would it be wise to install a Hertz 2-way component for the front/tweeter and rear/tweeter?

Thanks in advance.
David
 
I'm satisfied with my Bose system in my 2016.5 GT. I do feel the low end in the front doors shakes the panels a bit much. I'm just going to add some dynamat behind some panels to enhance the goodness that is already there.
 
Am I correct in saying this: If I want to add a self powered underseat sub to an 2016 GT w/ Bose, then I could:

Purchase Kenwood-KSC-SW11
Purchase https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The kenwood can run from the extra accessory 15A fuse in the cabin, so no need to run anything to the battery. Even though the pac says it doesn't work for Bose, from what I have read online, it actually does. So I could install that, and then tap the front speakers to feed the Kenwood. Seems like it would be pretty easy. Am I missing anything?
 
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mackworth said:
Am I correct in saying this: If I want to add a self powered underseat sub to an 2016 GT w/ Bose, then I could:

Purchase Kenwood-KSC-SW11
Purchase https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The kenwood can run from the extra accessory 15A fuse in the cabin, so no need to run anything to the battery. Even though the pac says it doesn't work for Bose, from what I have read online, it actually does. So I could install that, and then tap the front speakers to feed the Kenwood. Seems like it would be pretty easy. Am I missing anything?
Click to expand...
You'd need a $10 variable line out converter (LOC) instead of $30 Mazda non-Bose interface you plan to get. You tap the speaker wire signal into an amp, and LOC will handle the different levels of signal strength. See this post by CX-5um.
 
mackworth said:
Am I correct in saying this: If I want to add a self powered underseat sub to an 2016 GT w/ Bose, then I could:

Purchase Kenwood-KSC-SW11
Purchase https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The kenwood can run from the extra accessory 15A fuse in the cabin, so no need to run anything to the battery. Even though the pac says it doesn't work for Bose, from what I have read online, it actually does. So I could install that, and then tap the front speakers to feed the Kenwood. Seems like it would be pretty easy. Am I missing anything?
Click to expand...

yrwei52 said:
You'd need a $10 variable line out converter (LOC) instead of $30 Mazda non-Bose interface you plan to get. You tap the speaker wire signal into an amp, and LOC will handle the different levels of signal strength. See this post by CX-5um.
Click to expand...

Yes do not purchase the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface as I'm not sure they work with 2016 models.

The PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter should work for your application though.

Another tip: That particular sub model is available from Sonic for roughly $80 cheaper than Crutchfield. Sonic also sells Square Trade Warranties which I would highly recommend for a sub/amp all-in one system. $19.99 for 3 year warranty (covers repairs and shipping) for that model.
 
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mackworth said:
The kenwood can run from the extra accessory 15A fuse in the cabin, so no need to run anything to the battery.
Click to expand...

I searched but did not find this: I am getting ready to add a Kenwood KSC-SW11 to my system, is there a thread or post that details getting power from this 15A accessory fuse location you mentioned?

Thanks!
 
What is the gauge of wire that needs to be tapped into for the PAC SNI-35? Got the go ahead from the boss/wife.
 
mackworth said:
What is the gauge of wire that needs to be tapped into for the PAC SNI-35? Got the go ahead from the boss/wife.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to signal source? You splice/solder/crimp/tap wires already on the PAC SNI-35 unto existing speaker wires. Most people tapped the Bose front door speakers for simply adding a mono amp and woofer.

Other than RCA cables there are no other wires to purchase I can think of. Quality RCA cables are included with quality Amp Wire kits. You attach said RCA cables from PAC into the after market amp.

PAC SNI-35 + Amp Wire Kit = all the wiring required is simply adding a mono amp and bass woofer.
 
mackworth said:
I replaced the dash speakers with the Infinity 3002 3.5 speakers and everything fit back together again beautifully.
Click to expand...

I too have the 2016.5 CX5 and would like a little better sound. I am in a 3 yr lease, so no need to go crazy. What is the best bang for the buck to get rid of the "muddy" sound? Are the wires already in place?

I am adding a Curtis tow hitch ($98, for bikes) tint and upgrade sound.

thanks!!
 
I have the Polks and they help a lot. Not sure about the connectors though. When I did mine, matching connectors weren't available and I have soldered them.
You could also buy speaker mounts and add some speakers in the doors. Just keep the factory ones, do not cut them out of there mount.
 
OK. So only the wires are there under the plastic covers. I can splice easy enough. Ill check out the polks. I imagine you want efficient speaker >91db as I would thin k the stock head unit is on the low power side. I plan on leaving the doors alone. thx
 
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