2016 CX-5 Audio upgrade thread

You should use an offset screwdriver.
There is another issue, the connector. At least it was, when I did mine. Since than, maybe there are aftermarket options.
 
Currently negotiating pricing for a 2016.5 CX-5 GT. But I have plans to rather immediately replace the dash speakers with the Polks.

Question...according to reviews on Amazon, the Polks come with optional bass blockers to solder on...are people installing them, or should I leave them off?
 
Currently negotiating pricing for a 2016.5 CX-5 GT. But I have plans to rather immediately replace the dash speakers with the Polks.

Question...according to reviews on Amazon, the Polks come with optional bass blockers to solder on...are people installing them, or should I leave them off?
If you're referring to Polk Audio DB351 3" coaxial speakers to be installed at front dash locations, you don't need any additional bass blockers as OEM Bose system has already done that for these three front dash location speakers.
 
I know this is an old thread but a still very relevant one. I was bored and wanted to view the front corner dash speakers (BOSE). Man the plastic grill covers are easy to remove. Took me 5 seconds. So I noticed that the two screws holding the 3.5 (or whatever they are) size speakers are the only thing in the way with removing the stock ones and popping in better aftermarket ones. Wow that easy? But then there's a catch. None of my tools can access those two screws. How the heck did you guys remove them?

Oh and second question. Would you guys say its safe to assume that the width of the screw holes are in range with standard 3.5 inch speaker basket holes? The pictures ryan posted seem to say so. Would be nice if I can remove the dash speakers so I can measure the hole cutout.
So it took you only 5 seconds to remove the dash speaker grill? I needed 10 minutes even with plastic tools! :)

The OEM Bose dash speakers are 3-inch (8cm) mid-range Twiddlers. But most aftermarket 3" coaxial speakers such as Polk Audio DB351 should fit these screw locations. Check speaker height, especially those coaxial ones, as the space would be very tight!
 
So it took you only 5 seconds to remove the dash speaker grill? I needed 10 minutes even with plastic tools! :)

The OEM Bose dash speakers are 3-inch (8cm) mid-range Twiddlers. But most aftermarket 3" coaxial speakers such as Polk Audio DB351 should fit these screw locations. Check speaker height, especially those coaxial ones, as the space would be very tight!

Yeah those things are easy to remove. What tool are you using? I'm using a plastic trim removal tool with (no angle).

I bought a pair of NVX 3.5 coaxials for $24 at sonicelectronics. Only fit the CX-5's front right corner and not left driver side. Barely fit the center. Did not fit the Mazda6 corners. Fit the Mazda6 center perfectly and sounds smooth there. Its a quality speaker if given power. Sounded too low in the CX-5 center location for some odd reason.

In the end I swapped the Mazda6 center speaker into the CX-5 center dash location. The stock Mazda6 center Bose speaker was almost as big as the huge NVX's magnet. That said I can't tell if there's noticeable improvement. I suspect the CX-5 BOSE center channel isn't getting a whole lot of watts.

I really wanted to recommend the NVX's to compliment the stock CX-5 BOSE system but cannot due to fitment issues and that it needs more power. Aftermarket wise they are good quality stuff for the price. In my Mazda6's front center dash location they provide a smooth slightly deeper tone to vocals. Would've been better if they fit the corners :(. I also updated my woofer from the Pioneer 10 inch shallow mount to a single 12-inch Image Dynamics ID12 in a 1.75 cubic ported box tuned to 36-38Hz. A very sensitive IQ subwoofer that requires little power to get loud. I actually utilize CenterPoint more often now because the bass is now strong even with Centerpoint on. It also allows vocals and mids to not be drowned out with the bass.
 
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⋯ In the end I swapped the Mazda6 center speaker into the CX-5 center dash location. The stock Mazda6 center Bose speaker was almost as big as the huge NVX's magnet. That said I can't tell if there's noticeable improvement. I suspect the CX-5 BOSE center. D channel isn't getting a whole lot of watts.
So the center dash speaker of Bose system in Mazda6 is different with much bigger magnet than the center dash speaker in CX-5? That's yet another cost cutting evidence on CX-5!
 
So the center dash speaker of Bose system in Mazda6 is different with much bigger magnet than the center dash speaker in CX-5? That's yet another cost cutting evidence on CX-5!

Yes that is correct. Same fitment. Different size magnets. Both cars have the same size corner dash magnets though.
 
Yes that is correct. Same fitment. Different size magnets. Both cars have the same size corner dash magnets though.
But I'm pretty sure there're a couple of additional tweeters next to the corner dash 3-inch mid-range Twiddlers in Mazda6's Bose. Those tweeters are eliminated in CX-5 for cost-cutting purpose too!
 
I have a 2016 CX-5 GT with the awful BOSE option. It's awful because it barely sounds mediocre and the non-standard speakers mean it's not an easy upgrade! What a terrible decision!

So I want better sound but I am not a pro or close - i don't think i'll be able to run any wires, install an amp, build a sub, or add deadening panel. I have, however, read a lot of the posts here and it sounds like replacing the dash left and right speakers is something I can do no problem (minor soldering with the right speaker choice).

The Polk DB351s are popular and easy but how would the Infinity REF-3022cfx compare? If, at some point down the line, I got a proper amp, would there be a bigger difference?

Is it worth the effort to upgrade the D-pillars? If I'm reading the schematic properly, they are wired for mono! Are they just active when the weird Centerpoint feature is used, similar to the dash center speaker?

I read that the dash left and right get around 25 watts while the D-pillars get only 15. Would that influence which speakers I use for each location? (Pioneer TS-A878s being rated for 15 watts while the Infinity REF-3022cfx are 25)

Is replacing the rear speakers very impactful? I didn't read a whole lot of feedback about the rears other than some people said they didn't notice them that much. Any recommendations beyond the Polk DXi651s?
 
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⋯ Is it worth the effort to upgrade the D-pillars?
No it's not worth the effort to upgrade speakers in D-pillars.

These D-pillar rear speakers, like rear speakers in your home surround sound system, barely make any sound. I believe what you said was correct, they just active when the Centerpoint feature is used, and they are wired for mono only!

OEM Bose rear door speakers are "full range", not many people are interested to replace them either.

I'd choose Polk Audio DB351's for front dash with added tweeters to improve the high notes. Make sure the fitment issue if you choose any other 3" speakers as CX-5um mentioned above. Add an additional amp
and a boxed compact subwoofer is the best way to improve the bass.
 
I have an appointment at the end of the month with a highly-rated car audio install place to put in the 3 Polk db351s in the front dash (Been a long time since I've soldered anything, and right now I'm dealing with some major back and hip issues, so getting up around there would be hard for me).

The guy I made the appointment with was saying to double check and make sure the impedance of the replacement speakers match as close as possible. The DB351s are 4 ohms, and the document I found on here states that the stock speakers range from 3.24-3.96 ohms.

I know people here have installed these successfully, and they work just fine, but even a slight impedance mismatch could result in speakers or amp being blown. Has anyone had any issues? Are these close enough that it wouldn't matter?

I plan to print pdlpsher's post #47 for them as a guide, so they know what to expect and also solder on the stock connector to the new speakers in the event I need to swap them back out. Anything else I should make them aware of? And are we sure we don't need to use the included bass blocking capacitors? (I have the Bose system, was told on this page that the Bose system already has a high-pass filter for the front speakers, but are we sure? Just want to make sure I'm doing this right).

Thank you!
 
I have an appointment at the end of the month with a highly-rated car audio install place to put in the 3 Polk db351s in the front dash ⋯
Many people have used aftermarket 4Ω coaxial dash speakers replacing OEM Bose dash speakers without any issues. I won't worry too much about a little higher impedance at long as they're rated at 4Ω. And bass blockers aren't required for replacing Bose system front dash speakers.
 
I have an appointment at the end of the month with a highly-rated car audio install place to put in the 3 Polk db351s in the front dash (Been a long time since I've soldered anything, and right now I'm dealing with some major back and hip issues, so getting up around there would be hard for me).

The guy I made the appointment with was saying to double check and make sure the impedance of the replacement speakers match as close as possible. The DB351s are 4 ohms, and the document I found on here states that the stock speakers range from 3.24-3.96 ohms.

I know people here have installed these successfully, and they work just fine, but even a slight impedance mismatch could result in speakers or amp being blown. Has anyone had any issues? Are these close enough that it wouldn't matter?

I plan to print pdlpsher's post #47 for them as a guide, so they know what to expect and also solder on the stock connector to the new speakers in the event I need to swap them back out. Anything else I should make them aware of? And are we sure we don't need to use the included bass blocking capacitors? (I have the Bose system, was told on this page that the Bose system already has a high-pass filter for the front speakers, but are we sure? Just want to make sure I'm doing this right).

Thank you!

Impedance and resistance aren't exactly the same thing.

'stock speakers range from 3.24-3.96 ohms.'

I haven't read this entire thread yet but I'd bet that someone measured the resistance of the speakers with an ohm meter to come up with that value range. As I said, impedance and resistance aren't exactly the same thing but if the Polks are rated with an impedance of 4 ohms and the stockers are measured at 3.24-3.96 ohms there will not be an issue with impedance matching and no amps will be put in danger. You'd have to drop down below the 2 ohm range before you have to worry about your amps being able to supply the current needed to drive those speakers.
 
Hey guys, I am looking for some detailed insight on my CX-5's audio features, specifically the speakers. How many speakers are in the 2015 CX-5 GS? 6? And what size are they (6x9's, 6.5?)?

I'd like to upgrade some or all of the speakers. I do not want to break the bank. I plan on buying the speakers from Amazon or a local shop and having them install them. Any advice on which to upgrade or all?

Thanks
 
Hey guys, I am looking for some detailed insight on my CX-5's audio features, specifically the speakers. How many speakers are in the 2015 CX-5 GS? 6? And what size are they (6x9's, 6.5?)?

I'd like to upgrade some or all of the speakers. I do not want to break the bank. I plan on buying the speakers from Amazon or a local shop and having them install them. Any advice on which to upgrade or all?

Thanks
Spend some time and read this thread from beginning. There're too many valuable informations for your questions. :)
 
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