How long did your brake pads last?

Anchorman said:
I worked in brake development for 17 years and this is categorically not the case.



Nope, not this either.

Interesting notions but absolutely no truth in either of them. It*s all speculation and conjecture.
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How could you say that for example tibis comment is conjecture, when mazda 100% has a braking logic to reduce rolling moments when coming out of a corner.. they even publish media about it.
Interestignly enough, my rear brakes produce a lot more dust than my fronts even though they provide less brake force and have a thinner rotor (less heat capacity)
 
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My rears went out at 38k miles, I was coming home from work one day and smelled burning rubber. Parked the car in my garage and literally heard the rear rotors cracking/expanding under heat. Upon perusing this forum, it appears to be caused by the faulty rear calipers as my Mazda is a 2016.5.

Of course I'm used to working on cars with the manual e-brake so just found out that after I replaced the rotors and pads, that I potentially ****** up the calipers even more by not putting the car into maintenance mode and turning the caliper piston in (not compressing). I did all of this after-work since this was my only means of transportation and was wondering why there is no option for after-market rear calipers. I obviously have a problem with the rear-brakes, as I've seen in the TSB but will Mazda cover this even if the car is out of warranty (I bought it in March 2016 and its at 38k.)?
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
How could you say that for example tibis comment is conjecture, when mazda 100% has a braking logic to reduce rolling moments when coming out of a corner.. they even publish media about it.
Interestignly enough, my rear brakes produce a lot more dust than my fronts even though they provide less brake force and have a thinner rotor (less heat capacity)
Click to expand...

It's funny you mention that, I have the same issue. didn't have it with my '14, in fact I had very little dust at all compared to my '16
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
How could you say that for example tibis comment is conjecture, when mazda 100% has a braking logic to reduce rolling moments when coming out of a corner.. they even publish media about it.
Interestignly enough, my rear brakes produce a lot more dust than my fronts even though they provide less brake force and have a thinner rotor (less heat capacity)
Click to expand...

They use carbon as a lubricant in most brake pads and it just depends on the formulation. My comment was about the car dipping by using the rear brakes. Weight transfer depends on the wheelbase and the centre of gravity. You could take the fronts out altogether as the weight still transfers to the front during a stop.

With regard to soft material on the rear, they tend to use virtually the same material front and rear although from different manufacturers from a logistical point of view. The terms hard and soft in relation to friction material isnt always straight forward because if you measure Brinell Hardnes, you could find the harder is higher in friction. The balance in wear rates is determined by the size of the pad, the piston diameter and the disc diameter.
 
Here's something about my 2016 and front rotors. I'm planning on changing front rotors and pads next week. Now, I always use Centric rotors, they're my favorite, but for some reason front rotors from Centric aren't available, from Tire Rack at least and a few other outlets, until December of this year, so I opted to go OEM. The dealer needed my VIN because Mazda apparently used 2 different rotors for the 2016 model year, something you won't find in aftermarkets, at least Centric didn't specify 2 different rotors. It's a decent looking rotor, $83 a piece, Centric rotors from Tire Rack were $79 for one. I'm going with the Akebono pads. Dealer, by the way wanted $94 for a set of front pads, none MV. Almost a $26 jump from 2 years ago when I replaced front pads on my 2014.
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The general consensus amongst vehicle and brake manufacturers is that pad and disc life are not important compared to performance. It is an aspiration to get two sets of pads to one set of discs but not a requirement. The main priority is to meet the raft of legal requirements laid down by legislation and in that respect we rarely have concerns about performance of modern braking systems. Work to improve refinement including things like noise and creep groan continue.
 
Anchorman said:
They use carbon as a lubricant in most brake pads and it just depends on the formulation. My comment was about the car dipping by using the rear brakes. Weight transfer depends on the wheelbase and the centre of gravity. You could take the fronts out altogether as the weight still transfers to the front during a stop.

With regard to *soft* material on the rear, they tend to use virtually the same material front and rear although from different manufacturers from a logistical point of view. The terms hard and soft in relation to friction material isn*t always straight forward because if you measure Brinell Hardnes, you could find the harder is higher in friction. The balance in wear rates is determined by the size of the pad, the piston diameter and the disc diameter.
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I stand corrected - thanks for sharing your expertise.
I would swear that my 2003 Maxima used OEM organic pads in the rear and semi-metallic in the front.
My only point: Not surprised to find rear pads wearing as fast or faster compared to front pads This is consistent with my experience maintaining over a dozen or so cars since early 2000 models. So, whatever the cause, rear pads seem to wear at about the same rate as front pads - and often rears are worn to replacement before the fronts.
No one needs to worry that rear pads are wearing a bit faster - unless you have other braking problems like sticking calipers or parking brake
 
What about pad(friction material) original thickness on rear as opposed to front.My last car (1998 Buick Regal LS) had thinner rear disc pads when I replaced all four with Akebono(pricey) pads.Anybody know the original material thickness from the factory?
 
I am ending my 4th year with ton of life still left. Approx at 47k miles. The 1 thing I did was to yearly clean my brakes - calipers/pins after NJ winter's over. That extends the life quite a bit.
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
How could you say that for example tibis comment is conjecture, when mazda 100% has a braking logic to reduce rolling moments when coming out of a corner.. they even publish media about it.
Interestignly enough, my rear brakes produce a lot more dust than my fronts even though they provide less brake force and have a thinner rotor (less heat capacity)
Click to expand...

Yes, not to mention Brake assist and EBD...

https://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/technology/safety/active_safety/bk_ebd/

Just had 50k service, tech verified 5mm remain rear pads, 8mm remain front pads.
 
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55K for my rear and just started to notice the squealers. 2016 GT. Going to replace with the coated stoptech kit from Rock Auto next weekend. FYI, there is a StopTech mail in rebate through the month of March.
 
Anyone use the ceramic DuraLast (Autozone) front brake pads?

What are the factory pads? Semi-metallic?
 
I put the Autozone ceramic pads on my son's 2009 Altima. They are quiet and stop just fine. It's only been 5,000 miles or so but am considering them for our CX-5 when the time comes.
 
80,000km for rear brakes, replaced with PartSource ProSeries ceramic pads (part # PSX1624, 116-2147-6) for about $70. I bought new rotors but old ones were ok so left them on.

Front were done in October 2018 at 62,000km both pads and rotors (same make for pads but don't know if same part #).
 
Well I finally got my original brakes replaced on my 2013 CX-5 at 130,000 km and down to 2mm. I've been at 3mm for well over a year, so I probably would have been ok for a bit longer but the dealer offered me a few bucks off to do it while it was there for service and they had the wheels off anyway.

I've been ready to do them, and got quotes from a couple other places but the dealership came in way under everyone else. I've never had a vehicle that I continued to routinely service at the dealership but these guys have been great since day one. I asked them to change the rotors instead of turning them and they said it was absolutely not necessary. I hope it doesn't come back to haunt me in 50k :)

Driving is city / rural. Rarely on the highway. I've never even had a bad burp from this car. I love my CX-5.
 
2015 CX-5 Sport. Changed out the rears at 75k miles with 3mm left and the fronts at 80k miles with about 2.5mm left. Amazing. Best brakes I've ever had. Went over to the dealership and bought OEM replacement pads, hoping they're the same as the ones I got with the car when I bought it new.
 
2018 CX-5. 17,000 miles. Caliper was stuck and resulted in warped down brake pads/rotor before I caught it on my wife's car. Says I need brakes all around, calipers and rotors on the rear. Won't state it as a defect or file a warranty claim. Says cause was "build up/grime/salt" on the caliper bracket. I'm no car guy, but trying to fight this to get somebody to handle it. Dealership also just did a multi-point inspection/tire change 1000 miles ago (2 months ago), didn't note any concerns with any of the brakes. Didn't even flag them as needing to be monitored.

I'm convinced the EBS issue is still there. The manual says that the EBS is supposed to disengage if left on and you begin to drive (assuming seatbelt on and all that). I'm 99% sure something else froze the caliper. Once I get it repaired, I'm going to see if I can replicate what went wrong at some point.
 
canyouhelpme said:
2018 CX-5. 17,000 miles. Caliper was stuck and resulted in warped down brake pads/rotor before I caught it on my wife's car. Says I need brakes all around, calipers and rotors on the rear. Won't state it as a defect or file a warranty claim. Says cause was "build up/grime/salt" on the caliper bracket. I'm no car guy, but trying to fight this to get somebody to handle it. Dealership also just did a multi-point inspection/tire change 1000 miles ago (2 months ago), didn't note any concerns with any of the brakes. Didn't even flag them as needing to be monitored.

I'm convinced the EBS issue is still there. The manual says that the EBS is supposed to disengage if left on and you begin to drive (assuming seatbelt on and all that). I'm 99% sure something else froze the caliper. Once I get it repaired, I'm going to see if I can replicate what went wrong at some point.
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I’d escalate to Mazda corporate personally. That’s a cruddy way for a service center to reward your patronage. They what, got stuck with magic buildup in the last 2 months/1000 miles since the A-ok inspection? Both rears? Yeah right. 17k is downright unreasonable before needing caliper, rotor and brake pad replacement. Hoping the calipers don’t actually need replacement, those are by no means a wear item. Something went wrong.
 
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