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Thread: 2015 Build Thread

  1. #31
    Resident Asshole Maxx Mazda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Circuit View Post
    No need. I made a block-off from some ABS plastic I had cut and mounted studs to hold the PS reservoir.
    Sorry, I was confused. I too made that block off out of some textured ABS i glued to the evaporator box. I thought you were talking about the BUTTON in the HVAC controls. Those are also discontinued but easily swapped in. That's what I have a extra one of.


    Completely stock... (lol)

  2. #32
    Low and Slow Circuit's Avatar

    03 Protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx Mazda View Post
    Sorry, I was confused. I too made that block off out of some textured ABS i glued to the evaporator box. I thought you were talking about the BUTTON in the HVAC controls. Those are also discontinued but easily swapped in. That's what I have a extra one of.
    Ah gotcha.

  3. #33
    Resident Asshole Maxx Mazda's Avatar
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    Sorry it's been awhile since the last update. Got the harmonic balancer torqued on and the alternator / water pump belt tightened.



    Didn't like how I had the intercooler brackets mounted to the bumper, so I built some new ones and welded them on. I suck at welding, but they're strong. Cleaned the FMIC as well.





    Now that the wiring harness was complete, I could mount the subframe, new control arms and bushings, and start getting the front end back together.



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  4. #34
    Resident Asshole Maxx Mazda's Avatar
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    Decided to get rid of the power steering for better feel, and simplicity. Many people will just "loop the lines" but that is the hack way of doing shit... I actually set out to de-power the rack.

    Rack removed:



    Rack disassembled. The piston on the rack needs to be removed or else we're pushing fluid / air which gives resistance.







    I searched high and low for metric plugs to fit where the stock lines used to go. Couldn't find any. Decided instead to weld up the stock fittings. Doesn't need to be fancy or airtight, just enough to keep dust out.









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  5. #35
    Resident Asshole Maxx Mazda's Avatar
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    The pinion shaft acts like a fancy hydraulic valve, it's actually quite simple in its design. I won't explain that here, but it needs to be welded solid to eliminate slop in the steering once the valve body is removed. Again, I'm no pro welder, but I got good penetration and a strong bond.



    Got the housing cleaned up and painted, ready for assembly.





    Select the proper grease, and be sure to use lots on the shaft now that there's no steering fluid inside the rack anymore.





    Completed rack, re-centered and installed back into the car.



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  6. #36
    Low and Slow Circuit's Avatar

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    Nice work. 3 things I wish I had done when I re-did my bay: 1. Gloss paint 2. De-pinned and sleeved all lines 3. Full de-powered rack. Gonna be great to see it all done.
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  7. #37
    Resident Asshole Maxx Mazda's Avatar
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    With literally 3.5 times the stock power level stuffed through the transmission, something was bound to break. This is officially transmission #4. The Protégé trans is extremely fragile for anything over about 200WHP. To combat this, I've done a number of things. Completed a gear swap (3rd, 4th, 5th) from an '89 Mazda 323 GTX Turbo AWD. (Remember those?) They are marginally stronger than stock, and swap right onto the stock shafts. I've also installed a Mazdaspeed limited slip differential (on my 3rd one now) and welded it to the ring gear so the stock press pins won't snap. (A common problem.) There are options available like a fully custom straight cut gearset from PAR engineering and MFactory, and other limited slip differentials such as Quaife or MFactory, but for what those cost, I can afford to have spare trannies kicking around with upgraded Mazda internals.









    The main issue with helical cut gears is their tendency to pull apart under high loads. The stock aluminum transmission case can only take so much before flexing under high horsepower and allowing the shafts to spread, breaking the gears. To combat this, there is available a machined steel reinforcement plate, which does not allow the shafts to spread apart under load and should make for a much more robust transmission.

    The stock case needs to be machined to accept this, so I called on the amazing skill of legendboy to do the machine work for me. Pics of the plate and machining:





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  8. #38
    Resident Asshole Maxx Mazda's Avatar
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    Years previous, I've used the '88 GTX gears in my transmission rebuilds. In 1989 there was a revision to the design, figured I'll try them out and see if they're any stronger. A pic for comparison:



    With the machine work done, I could focus on cleaning and painting the cases, as well as disassembly for the primary and secondary shafts.













    The new gears were installed onto the shafts, clearances set as per the factory service manual. New bearings pressed on, and new races installed into the case.





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  9. #39
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    Hardware installed into lower case half, and shot of the welded differential. It still functions as a limited slip. It's not welded solid, it's just permanently affixed to the ring gear.





    Differential installed, and shafts in place.



    Shift mechanisim installed, case halves dry fit and bearing preload set (with shims.) Now ready for final install of upper case half.







    Case half installed, and 5th gearset installed. 5th/reverse synchro set shown. Waiting on a security nut (Mazda sent me the wrong one) which should be in tomorrow and I'll be able to put the top cover on.



    Last edited by Maxx Mazda; 10-15-2015 at 10:01 PM.
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  10. #40
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    Got the security nuts from Mazda today. Installed and torqued. Installed top cover.









    For the reverse and neutral sensors, I de-pinned them and built the wire loom like I did on the main harness. Bolted on all the misc. mounts, clutch slave cylinder, etc. Here is the finished transmission:





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  11. #41
    225 whp @ 8psi ogsp5's Avatar

    2002 p5 (MSP Powered)

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    Any updates ?

  12. #42
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    Wow it's been awhile since the last update. Not that I haven't been working on it, just haven't taken many pictures and posted anything.
    Got the intake manifold planed and reassembled with new gaskets. Installed all sensors and catch can port.





    Cleaned and rebuilt the starter:





    Clutch and lightweight flywheel cleaned up and ready for installation:



    This goddamn AWR oil pan... Not known for amazing quality (it would sweat through some of the welds) but unfortunately it's the only deep sump oil pan available for the Mazda FS engine. So, I had Beyond member legendboy touch up some of the seams for me with his TIG, and weld in a couple of bungs for my turbo oil return and oil temperature sensor. Once that was completed, I had the flange planed flat (welding will often cause warping, this is unavoidable) and installed the pan with Permatex Right Stuff silver.







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  13. #43
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    With the engine now off the stand, the flywheel could be torqued down and the clutch installed.







    One last look inside the bellhousing before the transmission is installed.



    Transmission now installed and torqued down.





    Engine leveler installed and hoisted up ready to go back into the car. Towels to protect nicely painted valve cover.

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  14. #44
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    Finally, after close to three years, the engine finds its way back into the car!







    Snazzy rebuilt axles were installed next.







    After that, I got onto a bit of a roll bolting shit up and didn't really stop to take many pictures. Not much to mention as most of the work I did was underneath the vehicle anyway.
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  15. #45
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    For those not familiar with my oil system, the oil pump has been internally coated to decrease tolerances and ensure maximum pressure is delivered. The internal regulator has been removed, and I am running an external Peterson unit which allows me to run my oil pressure at whatever I choose. With this setup, I've seen 40psi at idle, while still nothing over 100psi at full RPM. Anything higher you risk blowing seals and oil filters.

    I used to have the regulator mounted to the firewall, and the oil filter back behind the strut tower. With the power steering and AC deleted, I now have much more room up front so I decided to relocate those things for ease of access.

    Deciding to mount the regulator now to the front of the strut tower, I needed to fabricate a bracket out of some aluminum plate.

    The plate was cut to size, trimmed, and corners rounded.





    After bending the two 90* angles and drilling the mounting holes, I could test fit the new bracket.





    With the bracket finished, it was bead blasted and painted for a stealth look.



    For the filter block (which also features a pressure gauge for easy underhood adjustment and my turbo gets its clean oil directly from here.) I decided to mount it on the forward frame rail to allow easy access for my frequent oil changes.

    Again, I fabbed up a bracket from some aluminum in the fame fashion as before, and drilled and tapped the frame rail and filter block for some sturdy M8x1.25mm bolts.



    The finished product:





    Both components shown. Will need to measure out some new lines, but I have all the required hose end fittings that I'll need.

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