2013~2016 CX-5 Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change: Tools, Parts and Links

Just for s**** and giggles, as this video has no instructional value, my 4 hour adventure in a 20 minute version. For those who just like to watch people doing stuff. LOL!

 
Yes! You can use a 3/8 ratchet and/or 3/8 torque wrench for that plug and all the others. You will need to buy shallow sockets like I gave links to in the 1st post of this thread.

Also, Kedis, I really like Amsoil products, I use them all the time in our other, out of warranty machines. I decided to stay with Mazda branded and recommended products throughout the warranty period for the CX-5.

I totally blew it on reading that post and I was at Harbor Freight today too.. I'll be sure to pick up up those sockets before I undertake this maintenance task.
 
LOL! That rug came from Big Lots for 15$ back in 2005. It has been my loyal 'creeper' since! I used to use large pieces of cardboard until I went all Deluxe with the rug.
 
LOL! That rug came from Big Lots for 15$ back in 2005. It has been my loyal 'creeper' since! I used to use large pieces of cardboard until I went all Deluxe with the rug.

Too funny!! :)... I have some like 20 year old sleeping bags or the odd HF plastic tarps I use for changes.

Using the Westegg inflation calculator that 2005 rug would cost you $17.99 today. :)

I might need to check out the local Big Lots.
 
Do you think too tight to get a torque wrench in there? Of course... fill hole not so important other than not over-torqued IMO.

Because the 23/24mm socket I bought was 1/2inch and I didn't notice, I had to use the tq wrench. It fit on all except the rear diff top hole, I had to get a open ended wrench. Also my front transfer plugs were very easy to break, almost too easy. The rear was a pain.
 
changed front transfer case today, I feel like when I floor it everything is a little bit smoother. I've done the rear diff and an engine oil change recently. Now I want to do a drain/fill of the ATF and see if that smooths out the transmission, it is pretty smooth but I want perfection. Car is at 41k kilometres or about 25.5MI
 
Even though I can probably re-use the existing washers I picked some up at my dealer to have on hand if needed.

Torque specs for drain/fill plugs are --->

[Front]

40—58 Nm {4.1—5.9 kgfm, 30—42 ftlbf}

[Rear]


40—53 Nm {4.1—5.4 kgfm, 30—39 ftlbf}

===================
20K miles is probably premature but remember what owners manual says:

If the vehicle is operated primarily under any of the following conditions, replace the rear differential oil at
every 48,000 km (30,000 miles).
a) Towing a trailer or using a car-top carrier
b) Driving in dusty, sandy or wet conditions
c) Extended periods of idling or low speed operation
d) Repeated short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles)
 
Last edited:
I spent about 2 hours total doing front and diff... takes longer to get all the tools out than the actual work. That rear one is tight on the top.

None of the bolts were probably more than 15-20ft lbs. This worked out as I forgot my 3/8 inch torque wrench so was able to use the 1/4 inch (inch/lb) model in rear and just left them at 20lb feet with another small nudge to get into the 30-42lb ft spec. Still probably below spec but not gonna sweat it.

Of course Mazda dealer gave me washers for who knows what... probably for an oil pan. I just reused the old ones. They looked fine and I'll keep an eye out for any leaks.

It seems my rear took more than 2/3 a quart...front was right on around half a quart. Vehicle was level too on 4 identical Rhino ramps.

Fluid condition was pretty clear and just a small amount of material on the drain magnet. IMO.. the fluid still had a lot of life left in it.
 
Last edited:
Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change: tools parts and links

Fluid condition was pretty clear and just a small amount of material on the drain magnet. IMO.. the fluid still had a lot of light left in it.
Thanks for posting your experience. This is a good thread for front transfer case and rear differential lubricant change. It seems I can wait until 50K miles or longer to change both. Our '98 Honda CR-V AWD calls 75,000-mile lubricant change interval for rear differential but has no mention to the front transfer case. And I have never changed the front for 180K miles.

BTW, although Chris_Top_Her had said he could squeeze the lub into both front transfer case and rear differential, did your use a hand pump like you mentioned in the earlier post for both front the rear?
 
Fluid pump worked well. On the rear there is a hole in suspension piece almost directly behind the upper fill bolt that a few other things route through. I found it easier to snake the pump hose through this and then into the fill hole. The HF pump I used had one of those barbed fittings so it held solidly in fill hole and was long enough oil bottle could sit on ground. I could then easily watch it from below.

The front is really easy but a lot more take off as you have to remove the front splash shield. It is much easier than the rear to change. Just take your time.

http://www.harborfreight.com/gear-oil-and-fluid-pump-61746.html

image_24159.jpg

Screen%20Shot%202016-01-30%20at%2011.46.43%20AM.png
 
Last edited:
Question, what color is the diff fluid? the other day backing up from my snow filled parking spot I saw some almost gatorade orange colored liquid. I stopped and got outside to check it out, there were no leaks that were visible and when clean of snow there are no marks in my parking spots. Just want to gauge what it might have been.
 
:) or check your anti-freeze level..if full..erhayes probably has it

That isn't diff fluid
 
Naah I don't think it's piss lol :D I'll check the antifreeze levels when I get home although when I did my oil change recently it was just fine :)
 
It's a goldish colour. A little darker than unused oem oil, or vegetable oil
 
Hmm that sounds like what I saw, no way it could be leaking could it?!? I checked my antifreeze it's fine but then I remembered that my RainX windshield washing fluid is the same color as well. Going to have to remove some panels and check this weekend just to be sure!
 
Even though I can probably re-use the existing washers I picked some up at my dealer to have on hand if needed.

Torque specs for drain/fill plugs are --->

[Front]

40—58 Nm {4.1—5.9 kgfm, 30—42 ftlbf}

[Rear]


40—53 Nm {4.1—5.4 kgfm, 30—39 ftlbf}

===================
20K miles is probably premature but remember what owners manual says:

If the vehicle is operated primarily under any of the following conditions, replace the rear differential oil at
every 48,000 km (30,000 miles).
a) Towing a trailer or using a car-top carrier
b) Driving in dusty, sandy or wet conditions
c) Extended periods of idling or low speed operation
d) Repeated short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles)

I know this is information from the manual, but how does idling degrade the rear diff fluid?(scratch)
 
Back