Few general questions about 2016 CX-5

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2016 CX-5 GT | FWD | Soul Red | Tech Package
I drive a 2016 CX-5 GT FWD with Tech in Soul Red with all black leather interior. Love the ride and absolutely love the way it looks. Mileage is good too at 26.6 mpg for 70% city and 30% highway driving. Sure enough, have few minor complaints (posted that in 'What do you not like about CX-5 thread'), but they all are pretty minor and I love this car.

That said, looking for some ideas around the following.

  1. Premium Gasoline. Where I live, the premium gasoline costs 15-20% extra compared to regular gasoline. I know CX-5 doesn't really need premium gas, but do you think paying 20% extra for it would result in better than 20% mpg? If that's the case, this is a no brainer. Also premium gas would be better for the engine presumably. So my question is, does it make any economic sense (from mpg and engine-life point of view) to use premium gas.
  2. Power Lift Gate. One thing I really miss is the power lift gate. Is there anyway this can be easily added to the car? I did a quick search and did not find any OEM parts/accessories for this.
  3. Paint protection. I LOVE the way this car looks and LOVE the Soul Red paint. But I don't have a garage and the car sits outside (covered parking though) most of time in hot Texan sun. Apart from keeping it clean (washes every 2 weeks), what can I do to keep the paint in excellent condition and prevent the fading that is typical to red? I know people have suggested claybaring and waxing. What would be a reasonable frequency to do both of these? Once a quarter? Twice a year? More frequent? What else can I do to keep this car looking great?
  4. Hand Rest on Center Console. The hand rest on center console in 2016 model has a weird shape and it is really uncomfortable for me. I don't use the cupholders much. Is there an accessory (OEM or after market) that I can use to make this hand rest look like a regular hand rest, even if that ends up covering one cup holder?

Appreciate all your thoughts and comments.
 
Welcome to the forum.

Since all grades of gasoline contain the same amount of energy, a higher octane fuel will not result in an increase in mileage. So it isn't worth your money, especially in a car that doesn't require it. The higher octane prevents premature detonation and thus engine knocking. This can be an issue with high compression. The skyactive engine was designed specifically to run high compression on regular fuel.

The only time you will see an effect on mileage is if the particular grade of fuel you are using isn't fortified with 10% ethanol. Ethanol decreases mpg by about 5%. But is is becoming rarer to find ethanol free fuels.

The terms regular, mid grade and premium are marketing terms. Nothing else. They refer to the octane ratings. Some brands do vary the content of detergents in their fuels but I have yet to see the effects of this on long term use. Keep in mind all grades of fuel are federally mandated for content. It is in the oil industries financial interest to sell premium fuels and continue marketing it with that moniker.
 
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1. No.
2. Not likely.
3. Claybar as needed (do the plastic bag test). I wax typically once every couple of months.
4. Hand rest?
 
I've done a lot of fuel injection tuning with air cooled engines, so I should expand upon the whole octane thing. A higher octane rating in fuel is related to the point at which it will combust. The higher the rating, the more spark and compression you need to ignite it. This is why high performance cars require very high octane ratings - the engines run hotter (typically due to high compression or extensive heat in the case of being forced induction). Air cooled engines fall in to this camp too, since they run very hot when compared to liquid cooled engines. In these applications, a higher octane is required to prevent pre-ignition... ie a very hot combustion chamber igniting fuel before it's actually intended to be ignited. If the fuel ignites too early, valves may not be closed, the piston may not be fully downward in its stroke, etc. so engine damage can occur as a result. Typically you can hear pre-ignition happening... it sounds like a can of marbles being shaken. You can definitely feel it in performance as well, as when it happens, performance is greatly reduced.

Typically, cars that say they require premium fuel actually don't. I owned a Cadillac once that said that, and I think it's just to make the owners feel like they've got some finely tuned high-end machine that's "too good" for regular fuel... when in reality the one I had was just a big, dumb, naturally aspirated pushrod V8. My wife's Acura MDX says that it requires Premium fuel... it doesn't. I did have an Evo X that was boosted to the moon through, and that did require 93+, as it was a 2.0L engine being force fed air to the tune of around 450hp. Pre-ignition was a concern there. With the Skyactive Mazda engines in North America, it's not (until they come out with a boosted Skyactive MS3).

The Skyactive engines are high compression, but they've been engineered to run on lower octane fuels. If pre-ignition was an issue with these engines, we'd be seeing engine failures all over the place. You won't see any noticeable benefit to running premium gasoline in a CX5. It'll just cost you more.
 
I drive a 2016 CX-5 GT FWD with Tech in Soul Red with all black leather interior. Love the ride and absolutely love the way it looks. Mileage is good too at 26.6 mpg for 70% city and 30% highway driving. Sure enough, have few minor complaints (posted that in 'What do you not like about CX-5 thread'), but they all are pretty minor and I love this car.

That said, looking for some ideas around the following.

  1. Premium Gasoline. Where I live, the premium gasoline costs 15-20% extra compared to regular gasoline. I know CX-5 doesn't really need premium gas, but do you think paying 20% extra for it would result in better than 20% mpg? If that's the case, this is a no brainer. Also premium gas would be better for the engine presumably. So my question is, does it make any economic sense (from mpg and engine-life point of view) to use premium gas. No. I sprung for ethanol FREE gas for a few tanks and it didn't do a single thing for me. I doubt upping the octane does, either.
  2. Power Lift Gate. One thing I really miss is the power lift gate. Is there anyway this can be easily added to the car? I did a quick search and did not find any OEM parts/accessories for this. What is that? Like a Tommy Lift or something?
  3. Paint protection. I LOVE the way this car looks and LOVE the Soul Red paint. But I don't have a garage and the car sits outside (covered parking though) most of time in hot Texan sun. Apart from keeping it clean (washes every 2 weeks), what can I do to keep the paint in excellent condition and prevent the fading that is typical to red? I know people have suggested claybaring and waxing. What would be a reasonable frequency to do both of these? Once a quarter? Twice a year? More frequent? What else can I do to keep this car looking great? Eh, it's a consumable. I would use a quality synthetic with a UV blocker. I prefer Rejex.
  4. Hand Rest on Center Console. The hand rest on center console in 2016 model has a weird shape and it is really uncomfortable for me. I don't use the cupholders much. Is there an accessory (OEM or after market) that I can use to make this hand rest look like a regular hand rest, even if that ends up covering one cup holder?

Appreciate all your thoughts and comments.
I have a 2015, but those are my thoughts. No ideas on the cup-holder, though.
 
I've done a lot of fuel injection tuning with air cooled engines, so I should expand upon the whole octane thing. A higher octane rating in fuel is related to the point at which it will combust. The higher the rating, the more spark and compression you need to ignite it. This is why high performance cars require very high octane ratings - the engines run hotter (typically due to high compression or extensive heat in the case of being forced induction). Air cooled engines fall in to this camp too, since they run very hot when compared to liquid cooled engines. In these applications, a higher octane is required to prevent pre-ignition... ie a very hot combustion chamber igniting fuel before it's actually intended to be ignited. If the fuel ignites too early, valves may not be closed, the piston may not be fully downward in its stroke, etc. so engine damage can occur as a result. Typically you can hear pre-ignition happening... it sounds like a can of marbles being shaken. You can definitely feel it in performance as well, as when it happens, performance is greatly reduced.

Typically, cars that say they require premium fuel actually don't. I owned a Cadillac once that said that, and I think it's just to make the owners feel like they've got some finely tuned high-end machine that's "too good" for regular fuel... when in reality the one I had was just a big, dumb, naturally aspirated pushrod V8. My wife's Acura MDX says that it requires Premium fuel... it doesn't. I did have an Evo X that was boosted to the moon through, and that did require 93+, as it was a 2.0L engine being force fed air to the tune of around 450hp. Pre-ignition was a concern there. With the Skyactive Mazda engines in North America, it's not (until they come out with a boosted Skyactive MS3).

The Skyactive engines are high compression, but they've been engineered to run on lower octane fuels. If pre-ignition was an issue with these engines, we'd be seeing engine failures all over the place. You won't see any noticeable benefit to running premium gasoline in a CX5. It'll just cost you more.

Big, dumb, push-rod V8? Are you talking about a 32v Northstar?

Compression ratio is a big deal, as is piston shape, etc. etc. etc. and I would put in it what the manufacturer recommends. Being a big V8 with pushrods has zip to do with octane requirements. My Z06 took premium, and you darn well better put premium in it, if you plan on flooring it on a hot day!
 
3.Paint protection. I LOVE the way this car looks and LOVE the Soul Red paint. But I don't have a garage and the car sits outside (covered parking though) most of time in hot Texan sun. Apart from keeping it clean (washes every 2 weeks), what can I do to keep the paint in excellent condition and prevent the fading that is typical to red? I know people have suggested claybaring and waxing. What would be a reasonable frequency to do both of these? Once a quarter? Twice a year? More frequent? What else can I do to keep this car looking great?

Fading red paint is somewhat a thing of the past. For the most part, Red cars that faded where using a single stage paint, so no clear coat. Automotive paint has come a long way since then and you shouldn't see a whole of fading with the paint over the life of the car, If you maintain it properly. If you never wash or wax your car and let it bake in the sun year in year out you are likely to start seeing clear coat failure years down the line.

As for what to use to keep it clean and protected, there is a multimillion dollar industry dedicated to car care. You can pay as little as a few bucks to Hundreds for a container of wax or protectant. When ever I set out to wash/wax/clay/protect a vehicle I like to use the KISS method thinking. KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid. One can easily over saturate themselves with car care advice and products. The General rule of thumb is to start with the least aggressive and work your way up to the most aggressive when polishing or correcting the paint. Since your car is brand new I doubt you have much if any paint corrections to do. I did on my new car because the dealer was stupid and hand washed the car with old dirty shop rags cause they closed their wash system for the day, long story.

Anyhow, back on topic. There are two main types of "wax" out there for cars, Natural (carnauba) and synthetic. A lot of "waxes" are a combination of both. Carnauba wax will give you the best shine and a nice deep finish but it's harder to apply and take off, will stain your trim work, and don't last as long. Synthetic "waxes", which are really paint sealants, last much longer and give better protection for the vehicle. Most of them are trim friendly meaning they won't leave white residue on the trim and are easy to apply and take off. I would highly recommend you get a good synthetic paint sealant for the car and apply it ever 4-6 months. Unless you really like waxing your car then get a natural wax and do it every 1-3 month depending on the wax.

I'm a big fan right now of Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax, not the paste. The paste may stain the trim. The ultimate wax is a fairly new, ground up, product from Megs and costs about $15-20 for the kit that includes an applicator pad and Microfiber towel. It's a fully synthetic polymer sealant, even though they label it a wax for marketing reasons. What I really like about this product is the deep shine it gives. Closest to the natural waxes I have found. I used turtle wax Ice wax and it protected well, lasted a long time and had great water beading but never really made the paint finish pop like the Meguiar's.

You can also use one of the sealant treatments for even longer protection. Turtle wax Ice Shine lock and Meguiar's 365 paint protect are the only two I know of that are available over the counter so to speak. Both of them are said to last up to a year. If you use either of those I would still follow with a wax of some sort. I did the ICE shine lock sealant and Megs Ultimate wax for my car.

Clay bar is a definite yes. You'd be surprised how much "stuff" will get imbedded into the paint. The clay removes those contaminates. Really any of the clay bar kits will get the job done. I have the meguiar's kit and like it. Just make sure you use the provided quick detailer when claying as you need some sort of medium for lubrication.

if you can't tell I'm a fan of meguiar's. I don't get paid by them or get free products for promoting there brand or anything. It's just that they make some good products at a decent price that can be found locally. For a daily driver I don't feel the need to spend hundreds ordering boutique brand waxes and such. Meguiars also gives back to the detailing community quite a bit and put on care care clinics and what not around the country.

Here is what I would recommend for you to do with your new car. Do hand washes every 2 weeks or so. If you can't hand wash, go to the coin op car washes, if you don't have that go to a touchless car wash, the touch washes are horrible for the finish as all the wipers and brushes and rarely cleaned or replaced and are full of grit and grime that will mar the paint. You don't want to be the one following the pickup truck that just got done mudding for the day! With a clean car, clay bar the entire car, even the windows if you want. After clay bar is done apply s paint sealant like Megs 365 paint protect or the Turtle Wax ICE shine lock sealant. You can skip that if you choose. Then after letting the sealant cure, apply a coat of Meguiars Ultimate Liquid wax to all the surfaces of the car, trim included. That should last you several months and require little upkeep in between washes. When the water beading starts to fade, repeat the clay bar and waxing. The sealant is a once a year thing. To make your Ultimate wax last a bit longer you can use a product like the Ultimate Spay wax after every other wash or so. It's a spray on wipe off sort of product. Better protection then a quick detailer not quite the protection of the ultimate wax.

Remember taking care of your care can be therapeutic, not the reason you need therapy! You may find other products that you like or other products that other will recommend. I've just given you what I like to use. Good luck and Congrats on the new car.

Here's a pic of my car after doing what I just wrote. I also had to do a light polishing cause of the swirl marks the dealer left with their washing.
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Thank you all. Truly appreciate the detailed explanations and pictures.

I won't be wasting any money on premium gas and now I got a weekend project to wash, clay, seal and wax the car (breakn)

Any thoughts on the power lift gate and armrests? Will the armrests from 13-15 CX-5 fit in the 2016 model. I understand this will end up covering one cup holder, but I am fine with that.
 
Appreciate all your thoughts and comments.
  1. Mazda's North America SkyActiv-G 13:1 engines are designed to use regular gas. You won't get any benefit MPG wise by using premium gas. In fact, you can't find any engine could benefit 20% gain on MPG by using premium gas. The 2% gain would be a possibility if the engine is designed for using premium. If you really care for the longevity of the engine life, use top-tier detergent gasoline from Shell, Costco, etc.
  2. Mazda doesn't offer power lift gate anywhere in the world for CX-5. So there is zero chance to find an OEM parts for this.
  3. Check out other posts for recommendations.
  4. Like power lift gate, there is zero chance you can find a different arm rest suited for 2016 style on center console. Try to adjust your seat further to the rear or use a pillow.
 
Big, dumb, push-rod V8? Are you talking about a 32v Northstar?

Compression ratio is a big deal, as is piston shape, etc. etc. etc. and I would put in it what the manufacturer recommends. Being a big V8 with pushrods has zip to do with octane requirements. My Z06 took premium, and you darn well better put premium in it, if you plan on flooring it on a hot day!

No. It was an 82. It was a 4.1L V8 that made 125hp. Cadillac had Premium Gasoline Only stickers all over it. It was a 9.5:1 CR, which is not high at all. There was no mechanical reason that the car required premium fuel. I never put premium in it (I was 16), drove it for years, and it was fine.

Z06 compared to a GM HT engine is apples to oranges. Of course that engine requires a higher octane fuel, given the fact that it's a high compression performance engine. The HTs were not. They were low compression lumps with 60s tech. The point still stands -- in instances like that, the manufacturer puts those stickers there to make the people who are buying them ("Ooooh Cadillac, it's a LUXURY car") think that they have some jewel that doesn't require common fuel.
 
As far as the armrest goes, your best bet is finding someone who does custom upholstery and see if they can make you a custom piece for the arm rest. My guess is that it would require building a whole new armrest or at least removing the cover and foam, adding support to the cutout area and then re doing the foam and making a custom cover to match
 
As far as the armrest goes, your best bet is finding someone who does custom upholstery and see if they can make you a custom piece for the arm rest. My guess is that it would require building a whole new armrest or at least removing the cover and foam, adding support to the cutout area and then re doing the foam and making a custom cover to match
This would be an expensive proposition...
 
I never said it would be cheap or easy. I doubt there are any swaps from other cars that would fit. So it's about the only way to do it right
 
I never said it would be cheap or easy. I doubt there are any swaps from other cars that would fit. So it's about the only way to do it right
Yeah, I know. That's why I suggested trying to move the seat further back or use a pillow.
 
I never said it would be cheap or easy. I doubt there are any swaps from other cars that would fit. So it's about the only way to do it right

Anyone here who has seen/owned 13-15 CX-5? Do you think this piece (if I get one) will fit in 2016 model?
 
I have a clear bra installed for full bumper and partial hood. I hate the 'line' but you can barely tell :)

So, should I claybar and wax the clearbra or just wipe it clean? Paid $400 for it. Don't want to mess it up
 
I have a clear bra installed for full bumper and partial hood. I hate the 'line' but you can barely tell :)

So, should I claybar and wax the clearbra or just wipe it clean? Paid $400 for it. Don't want to mess it up

For $400 I would consider protecting it with some type of vinyl film or something. That way the protection film will get marred up, not your $400 bra.(thumb)
 
I have a clear bra installed for full bumper and partial hood. I hate the 'line' but you can barely tell :)
So, should I claybar and wax the clearbra or just wipe it clean? Paid $400 for it. Don't want to mess it up
For $400 I would consider protecting it with some type of vinyl film or something. That way the protection film will get marred up, not your $400 bra.(thumb)
So how does he protect vinyl film which protects clear bra??? :)
 
So how does he protect vinyl film which protects clear bra??? :)

No need to make fun. This is my first new car and I am just doing my best to maintain it and learning a lot on the way. This is the first time I have a car with clear bra and this is the first time I will be waxing a car. So, it is only logical to ask this question.
 
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