2013 CX-9 AWD - Transfer Case Fluid Change...Attempt

msujay2012

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:
2013 Mazda CX-9 AWD Grand Touring
I took our 45,000 mile, 2013 CX-9 AWD to our trusted mechanic today (not the stealership) and asked them to siphon out the transfer case oil and replace. The feedback I received was they could not access the fill plug bolt as it is nestled up against the catalytic converter.

I've read some of the other threads on the topic, but given the importance of performing this fluid change due to the high failure rate of the transfer case, I thought I would post to see if anyone has run into the same issue with their mechanic.

Any more detailed instructions that I could provide to my mechanic?
 
I really wonder about that shop. I did my own on my 2012 and all I had to do was come in from the rear over the cross member to get to the transfer case plug. I was just working on the floor with the vehicle on jack stands. If I had a lift it would have gone even faster. No magic to it just a regular 3/8 wratchet handle.
 
All they need is a stubby 3/8 square drive ratchet.

Screenshot_2015-07-02-18-11-21.png

I agree with rowlands57 - access the plug from the rear; then cross from above the beam member that's underneath, if the shop can't even handle that, I don't think they're the right shop for the job, or they're trying to make it seem harder than it is, so they can upcharge you for taking out the catalytic converter. There is ABSOLUTELY no need to take out the catalytic converter. A short stubby 3/8 drive can get in there with no problems.

The procedure is very easy and simple, it's like changing engine oil, except there's no drain plug so have to suction out the bad oil. Also, I definitely recommend using the electric pump, it does a much better job at suctioning out the bad oil than the hand suction gun.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123848368-21-electric-sunction-extractor-transfer-pump-for-transfer-case-oil-changes
 
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I would take this as a hint to not go back to that shop again. Like the others have said, its a pretty straight forward process. If they as "Professionals" couldnt figure it out, id be weary of letting them attempt any other work on the vehicle.
 
Thanks to all who responded. This is a reputable mechanic, however I believe it is time I invested in some jack stands, tools and handled all fluid changes myself. You guys rock.
 
How much of the plastic tube can you get inside the transfer case. Also what is the diameter of that tube. I took it to the mechanic who was unable to do it the tube he used look kind of thick in diameter.
 
The tube I used is the smallest one I have. It is the one that came 'standard' with my Pela Oil Extractor. The method I found best is to come in to the spot from as high as possible and try to feed the tube down the face of the unit. Keeping as close to the passenger side of the vehicle while trying to maintain the downward angle as much as possible.
 
Well i had a pela in my sights on ebay, then it went bye bye. So now i ordered the little suction pump that avidien got. I was hoping he would tell me the size of the tube that he stuck in there to suck out the oil. Putting the new oil in won't be a problem as i got the penzoil gizmo that someone posted here and will use the supplied tube to put in the oil. Avidien how much of that tube went into the transfer case. Thanks to everyone here who has shared info on this. It has been very helpful.
 
Hi kornholio,

I highly recommend the electric pump over the handheld OTC gun, the very small diameter hose that came with the electric pump is about 1/4" diameter on the sunction side, the outlet tube that goes to the Poland Springs bottle is 3/8" diameter.

I did the same thing like rowlands57: come in from the top and angle down the hole as much as possible, the 1/4" tube can go in about two inches before it hits an obstacle. As I was suctioning, I agitated the tube up and down and that definitely helped. I got about 80% full of the Poland Springs bottle before it was sucking nothing but air.

The OTC handheld comes with 1/2" tubes which is way too big, I suspect that's what most auto repair shops have too but that is way too big and rigid to get into the transfer case. When I was using the OTC suction gun, I even swapped the 1/2" tube with a 3/8" tube and still can't get deep enough...the OTC is useless and just gathering dust in the garage.

Here is link to the electric pump I used:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123848368-21-electric-sunction-extractor-transfer-pump-for-transfer-case-oil-changes

just a note: I'm almost up to 60k miles now with no issues!!! I swapped the OEM oil with the Royal Purple at around 40k, I plan to swap again really soon, I'll post a video of how the Royal Purple 75w140 oil looks.
 
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Avidien, thanks for the quick response. I was going to ask the question about the oil also. If anyone else has done this please input your experiences with the gear oil. I was looking at the mobil 1 and the royal purple, they both have the friction modifier. I was also looking at the valvoline synthetic but that oil has no modifier in it. Which one does anyone here recommend? All input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Avidien, thanks for the quick response. I was going to ask the question about the oil also. If anyone else has done this please input your experiences with the gear oil. I was looking at the mobil 1 and the royal purple, they both have the friction modifier. I was also looking at the valvoline synthetic but that oil has no modifier in it. Which one does anyone here recommend? All input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Hi kornholio,

I can only offer you some limited knowledge I have on this:

1) I know the OEM 75w140 oil is Motorcraft which is owned by Ford and the color is a clear amber yellow color and is an inferior oil because it breaks down too early way before it's intended lifetime oil designation and it changes to sludge causing transfer case failures.

2) The old OEM oil I sucked for the first time at around 40K was already black/grey with metallic particles floating and thick consistency like honey. And the smell, OMG the smell was horrible and putrid.

3) you may want to check the Motorcraft oil by itself to see if the smell is as bad as I describe. If not, I would have to say friction modifier was added by Mazda because the smell is absolutely horrendous when you suction out the oil.

See Amazon reviews here, and almost every review describes how bad the friction modifier smell is
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
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Avidien, didn't you use royal purple for your gear oil? or was that someone else. That is why I am asking because the royal purple and the mobil 1 both have the friction modifier mixed in their gear oils where as the Valvoline doesn't have it mixed. In. Does it make a difference if it has the modifier or not? I am just wondering. Thanks again for your help.
 
Avidien, didn't you use royal purple for your gear oil? or was that someone else. That is why I am asking because the royal purple and the mobil 1 both have the friction modifier mixed in their gear oils where as the Valvoline doesn't have it mixed. In. Does it make a difference if it has the modifier or not? I am just wondering. Thanks again for your help.

yes, I used Royal Purple with the friction modifier mixed in already with no issues

(so far I have 20K miles on Royal Purple, I changed my OEM oil at 40K, now I have 60K on the odometer),

I bought it off Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I DID NOT add any additional friction Ford Fluid XL-3 Friction Modifier Additive or Liqui Moly additive.

I was just pointing out that most of the Amazon reviewers who buy the Motorcraft oil also add the friction modifier and the horrible smell mainly comes from the friction modifier. So by deduction, if the Motorcarft oil by itself doesn't smell, then the smell must be coming from the friction modifier.

Also just my two cents, I really don't recommend using the OEM Motorcraft 75W140 oil, just because it's OEM doesn't mean it's the best, there is no way in hell it's a lifetime oil. At 40K, the oil I sucked out was black and like glue already. It breaks down way too quick. here's video of what it looked like after only 40K :

 
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Royal Purple here as well as it was recommended on the other posts regarding the transfer case. I don't have a lot of miles since the change at 23K but it's been good for me and I'll do the change again at 40K to see how this is holding up.
 
I wasn't even thinking about getting the motorcraft oil. It would be either the mobil 1 or the royal purple. I will probably go with the royal purple since their products are for extreme applications and it costs the same as the mobil 1.
 
Just to add my $0.02, the smell you guys are describing is most likely the friction modifier. I have a small bottle from when I rebuilt the trac-loc in my Mustang and you can smell the stuff even from the unopened bottle. I bought it in anticipation that I’d need it, but I purchased gear oil with the modifier included. You’d think they could manufacture something that performed the same way that didn’t smell as bad.

Also, regarding the smell, I recommend just throwing anything you get the friction modifier on(especially clothing, rags, cardboard…etc). I got some of that stuff on some rags when doing the rear end. Even after bagging everything(including drain pan), the house smelled like that stuff(tuck under garage), and it was strong smelling. Another Also, keep it off the garage floor as well.

On a topic related note, I think I’ll be tackling this job on my wife’s 09 CX9 before winter. She has ~107K miles on hers and no fluid changes have been done other than engine oil. Transfer case along with transmission(drain/fill method) will be on the to-do list for the fall and possible a brake fluid flush.
 
I took our 45,000 mile, 2013 CX-9 AWD to our trusted mechanic today (not the stealership) and asked them to siphon out the transfer case oil and replace. The feedback I received was they could not access the fill plug bolt as it is nestled up against the catalytic converter.

I've read some of the other threads on the topic, but given the importance of performing this fluid change due to the high failure rate of the transfer case, I thought I would post to see if anyone has run into the same issue with their mechanic.

Any more detailed instructions that I could provide to my mechanic?

Msujay, did you ever get this done at 45,000 miles??
 
(burn) You must show that Mechanic to use 3/8 LOW PROFILE RATCHET (Avidien already show us). I will stay away from OEM Motorcraft Gear oil and Spark Plugs, as Avidien said above. (yippy) Special thanks to Avidien for his excellent tutorial Transfer Case Oil change.
 

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