2014 CX-5 Rotor problems

somewhatold

Member
:
Mazda, CX-5 GT
Hi all,

I have a 2014 CX-5 GT. I have around 8k miles on it. I was out of town for 2 month and parked my car in the garage.

After I got back and while driving the car, I can feel the car stutters(pulsing) a little bit when I'm braking. So I took it to the dealership.

After their inspection, they told me that there are indentations on the front and back rotors caused by the brake caliper pressing on it ??? And the rotors need machining to get the indentations off. They want $150 for the job.

My question is that should I do the machining or should I just get new rotors?

(Is this normal? I've had other cars and parked for prolonged period of time and none of them had this problem.)

Thanks for your inputs.
 
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Hi all,

I have a 2014 CX-5 GT. I have around 8k miles on it. I was out of town for 2 month and parked my car in the garage.

After I got back and while driving the car, I can feel the car stutters a little bit when I'm braking. So I took it to the dealership.

After their inspection, they told me that there are indentations on the front and back rotors caused by the brake caliper pressing on it ??? And the rotors need machining to get the indentations off. They want $150 for the job.

My question is that should I do the machining or should I just get new rotors?

(Is this normal? I've had other cars and parked for prolonged period of time and none of them had this problem.)

Thanks for your inputs.

This problem can happen to cars that sit for awhile, then drive and brake. I believe the problems come from rust built up on the rotors during sitting, then get heated up quickly and drag and mixed with brake pad usage, causing uneven hot spots on the rotors, which eventually cause the "stutter" (rotor lateral runout). If the rotors are within specifications after turning them, then that route is an acceptable solution. However, $150 to turn rotors is about $100 to much.
 
This problem can happen to cars that sit for awhile, then drive and brake. I believe the problems come from rust built up on the rotors during sitting, then get heated up quickly and drag and mixed with brake pad usage, causing uneven hot spots on the rotors, which eventually cause the "stutter" (rotor lateral runout). If the rotors are within specifications after turning them, then that route is an acceptable solution. However, $150 to turn rotors is about $100 to much.



Thanks so much for your reply.

In your opinion, which route should I take get them turned or get new rotors, or just let it be:(.
 
Thanks so much for your reply.

In your opinion, which route should I take get them turned or get new rotors, or just let it be:(.

Before spending any money on this problem,
you should read this informative, but long article:
http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

You might be able to fix this problem just by following a brake-in procedure.. namely a series of very hard brake applications from ~60MPH to 5MPH without ever coming to a complete stop.
If that doesn't work, get the rotors turned and do a proper brake-in after the turning.
 
Thanks so much for your reply.

In your opinion, which route should I take get them turned or get new rotors, or just let it be:(.

No problem! If you can get new rotors at a reasonable price compared to turning them, I'd buy new rotors. It will get to the point that it'll drive you up the wall and make your CX-5 feel like a junker, so I wouldn't let it be.
 
No problem! If you can get new rotors at a reasonable price compared to turning them, I'd buy new rotors. It will get to the point that it'll drive you up the wall and make your CX-5 feel like a junker, so I wouldn't let it be.

Alright. I'll see if I can find some rotors at reasonable price. Thank you very much.
 
Hi all,

I have a 2014 CX-5 GT. I have around 8k miles on it. I was out of town for 2 month and parked my car in the garage.

After I got back and while driving the car, I can feel the car stutters(pulsing) a little bit when I'm braking. So I took it to the dealership.

This can be caused by setting the parking brake when the rotor are wet and leaving it. Particularly if you live in an area that has de-icing compounds applied to the road.

I agree with Piotrek, try some repeated hard stops. If you have a place that is safe/legal, I recommend from 70 mph (there is quite a difference between 60 and 70 in terms of energy dissipated).

If you still feel pulsing after giving it your best shot, get the rotors turned or replace them (your choice). Some people are against turning rotors but I'm old school and have done this a number of times on both motorcycles and cars without issue. Just make sure your machinist knows what he's doing, has good equipment and proper minimum thickness spec. It's not a job for a know-nothing shop boy or someone not willing to take a few extra seconds to insure the disc is chucked flat in the machine before beginning.
 
If memory serves, that stop tech article details specifically that the issue arises from over torque on the lug nuts. Have you had the tires rotated? If so, verify the lugs have been applied at specified torque rating.

I agree with a series of hard stops, and see where that gets you.
 
Before spending any money on this problem,
you should read this informative, but long article:
http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

You might be able to fix this problem just by following a brake-in procedure.. namely a series of very hard brake applications from ~60MPH to 5MPH without ever coming to a complete stop.
If that doesn't work, get the rotors turned and do a proper brake-in after the turning.

If memory serves, that stop tech article details specifically that the issue arises from over torque on the lug nuts. Have you had the tires rotated? If so, verify the lugs have been applied at specified torque rating.

I agree with a series of hard stops, and see where that gets you.
This can be caused by setting the parking brake when the rotor are wet and leaving it. Particularly if you live in an area that has de-icing compounds applied to the road.

I agree with Piotrek, try some repeated hard stops. If you have a place that is safe/legal, I recommend from 70 mph (there is quite a difference between 60 and 70 in terms of energy dissipated).

If you still feel pulsing after giving it your best shot, get the rotors turned or replace them (your choice). Some people are against turning rotors but I'm old school and have done this a number of times on both motorcycles and cars without issue. Just make sure your machinist knows what he's doing, has good equipment and proper minimum thickness spec. It's not a job for a know-nothing shop boy or someone not willing to take a few extra seconds to insure the disc is chucked flat in the machine before beginning.

Thanks for your replies.
 
O
If memory serves, that stop tech article details specifically that the issue arises from over torque on the lug nuts. Have you had the tires rotated? If so, verify the lugs have been applied at specified torque rating.

I agree with a series of hard stops, and see where that gets you.

+1 dealers are clueless when it comes to lug nut torque specifications, they just ram them with an impact wrench. Pat Goss on motor week did a segment on how over torquing lug nuts warps your rotors. If you do let the dealer rotate your tires loosen and manually tightened until snug when you get home. Unfortunately I did not find out about this until after the fing dealer over tightened mine which resulted in warped front rotors in less than 30k of driving.
 
O

+1 dealers are clueless when it comes to lug nut torque specifications, they just ram them with an impact wrench. Pat Goss on motor week did a segment on how over torquing lug nuts warps your rotors. If you do let the dealer rotate your tires loosen and manually tightened until snug when you get home. Unfortunately I did not find out about this until after the fing dealer over tightened mine which resulted in warped front rotors in less than 30k of driving.
Buy a torque wrench. Even a cheap torque wrench from Harbor freight will be more accurate than tightening by hand. I saw a torque wrench kit at Aldi for $16 a few days ago. Warped rotors will cost a lot more to fix than the price of a torque wrench.
 
O

+1 dealers are clueless when it comes to lug nut torque specifications, they just ram them with an impact wrench. Pat Goss on motor week did a segment on how over torquing lug nuts warps your rotors. If you do let the dealer rotate your tires loosen and manually tightened until snug when you get home. Unfortunately I did not find out about this until after the fing dealer over tightened mine which resulted in warped front rotors in less than 30k of driving.

Buy a torque wrench. Even a cheap torque wrench from Harbor freight will be more accurate than tightening by hand. I saw a torque wrench kit at Aldi for $16 a few days ago. Warped rotors will cost a lot more to fix than the price of a torque wrench.

Thx for the replies. Do I need to jack up the car first before loosen and tighten the lug nuts?
 
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My dealer and even my Walmarts use a "torque stick" and or a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts. Ed
 
I used to be suspicious of my dealer and tire dealers of over-torquing wheel lugs, but after a couple of years of checking with my torque wrench after getting it back from the dealer or tire retailer, I became a lot less concerned. They all did it to between 80 and 90 ft.lb. Any business that doesn't check the torque specs and follow them ought to be out of business.
 
You'd be surprised how many lugs are fastened with pneumatic impact wrenches...
On top of that, it's always possible that the appropriate torque pattern is not used.
It totally happens.
 
don't know why you are getting charged at all. you should be under 12 12 warranty. I have machined rotors under warranty everyone know what causes brake shutter. weather it is "warped rotors" or "pad lining issues" we turn rotors under warranty. and to everyone about over torqueing wheels at dealer. yes some of us use just an impact. however on the lowest setting which is only good for 90-100. breaker bars have more torque the an air gun. we also use torque sticks. we also hand torque. we do every way. and check ourselves. I will say this we will over torque before we under torque. when you do this for a living and are putting on dozens of wheels a day all day depending on the job you will not hand torque all of them. especially in and out LOF and ROT. we are all flate-rate. racing the clock. flate-rate is a horrible system. sometimes we are working for zero money. try paying your bills when you are doing 3 hr. diag on electrical failure issues with no symptoms. flat-rate was good 15 years ago. but at the dealer it does not belong. where we do more warranty work which is extremely reduced then we do customer work where we might make a dollar. but now im ranting and off topic. I would seriously complain honestly. the machining should be done under warranty if you are in 12 12 still.
 
Agree with using a reputable mechanic whom uses a torque stick... Would also have the rotors turned, but I would replace the pads while doing so...
I'm one who'd rather make it a perfect as possible...
 
I used to be suspicious of my dealer and tire dealers of over-torquing wheel lugs, but after a couple of years of checking with my torque wrench after getting it back from the dealer or tire retailer, I became a lot less concerned. They all did it to between 80 and 90 ft.lb. Any business that doesn't check the torque specs and follow them ought to be out of business.

The problem I had with my dealer was my wheel lock nut would always be way under torqued, causing uneven torque. I blame this for warped rotors after 14k (one full year of four seasons) where tires were rotated between seasonal summer/winter sets with uneven torque.

I've been told if too much or too little torque is applied to a specific position of the rotor, this will definitely warp the rotor as it heats up. My mistake for not checking it, but on a new car the first year you never even open the hood the whole thing is under warranty and your last concern is maintenance...until something breaks that isn't covered, like the brakes.
 
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