Install kits still good for 2016 model?

Just as an aside to this great write up, I've added the Pioneer to my 2015 and used the MaestroRR steering wheel controller. It works quite well, with on minor hiccup.
The Maestro RR allows for programming a second function to each audio button on the steering wheel which is accessed by holding the pressure on the button a bit longer than normal. While flashing the module via PC or Cell Phone you simply add whichever function that you wish to use such as radio band, mute, pause, etc... The one hiccup is the Phone Dial / Siri button.
Users with the Pioneer cannot program a second option to this button or it will not work, as it requires a long press of the button to work.
One of the best things about the MaestroRR is that it provides you real-time gauges to see what the car is doing such as MAf / Map sensor, Fuel Percentage, Engine Load, Tach, Speedo, etc... on-screen on the stereo display.
Factory backup cam hooked up using the Metra adapters and works fine.
The photos below show the stock gauges and positions of each gauge, but they are editable...
I love the sound of the Pioneer compared to the stock HU, I received the SAT tuner with the new HU and it came with 3 months free programming. I installed the antennae under the center speaker grille and it works great, with very few issues (Trees, etc.. block the signal sometimes). Speakers upgraded and amp and sub to be installed soon...


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Looks great! How do you deal with vehicle settings now that the stock unit is gone? Also, are you using the center speaker or did you just omit it? Will the Pioneer HU offer center & surround capability?
 
The settings stayed in place thus far, I can have the dealer reset them if necessary... No center channel cause I'm not looking to watch movies , but am putting in a 3 way speaker setup in the front... 8's in the doors, 2"Mids in the dash locations, Tweeters mounted in the doors... Not certain if the HU will control the center, though it does have alot of settings that I have not yet used...
 
The settings stayed in place thus far, I can have the dealer reset them if necessary... No center channel cause I'm not looking to watch movies , but am putting in a 3 way speaker setup in the front... 8's in the doors, 2"Mids in the dash locations, Tweeters mounted in the doors... Not certain if the HU will control the center, though it does have alot of settings that I have not yet used...
Nice. Making me want to upgrade!

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
Audio System Headunit Upgrades for 2016 CX-5 Sport

The settings stayed in place thus far, I can have the dealer reset them if necessary... No center channel cause I'm not looking to watch movies , but am putting in a 3 way speaker setup in the front... 8's in the doors, 2"Mids in the dash locations, Tweeters mounted in the doors... Not certain if the HU will control the center, though it does have alot of settings that I have not yet used...
RG_Flyer really did excellent write-up for those CX-5 Sport owners on headunit upgrade of stock audio system! And I like the comment you made about center speaker too! That's why I don't understand why Mazda keeps featuring Bose Centerpoint surround-sound system and center speaker on CX-5 as we don't watch movies while driving! (uhm)

So you're saying no need to worry about losing some factory control features in stock audio system:
Thank you. I guess my biggest concern is being able to utilize everything that comes preinstalled with the stock head unit. Like controlling the lights and service reminders.
 
If set up correctly, the center channel can be used quite nicely in a sound-only high end stereo system. That said, I've never felt the need for it and for me it is more trouble (Work, cost) than I'm interested in doing... I used to try alot of different things with the systems that I made, but I'm just an old fart who simply wants good sound in the car now.... FWIW I tried something once that sounded pretty good... the only time I used tweeters in the dash locations of a car (reflecting off of the glass) I put the left tweeter on the right, and the right tweeter on the left. I got the idea from Corvette who at the time was experimenting with this instead of center channel...
 
Thanks for posting the photos and details Dmac43. You have taken this to a whole new level! The good thing is, I can upgrade to this new technology, which is the beauty of aftermarket. I hate to see automakers moving away from double-DIN for this reason.

That sure is a nice system you put together!
 
So you're saying no need to worry about losing some factory control features in stock audio system:

It would depend on your proximity to the dealer and their customer service...
I'm only about 10 miles from my dealer and they are really good about taking care of me...
I'd imagine that it could be an issue if you live 200 miles from a dealer, or your local dealer is a schmuck...
 
Thanks for posting the photos and details Dmac43. You have taken this to a whole new level! The good thing is, I can upgrade to this new technology, which is the beauty of aftermarket. I hate to see automakers moving away from double-DIN for this reason.

That sure is a nice system you put together!

I appreciate the compliments but the info is out there, and I got a lot of it from the guys on here whom came before me...
I just like to do stuff old school, and I hate tweeters bouncing off of the glass...
 
Just did this over the weekend, and here are some of my insights:

- The stereo is tied to Fuse "AUDIO2" located under the vehicle hood.
- I would recommend buying an extra Metra 70-7552 harness. I appreciated having the extra pins to use on the Blue/Pink & Brown/White wires. To get the pins out, I used a larger flathead screw driver to press an indentation over the clipping piece of the pin, and after enough pressure, the wires slid straight out so that I could re-bend the clip and use it in the fresh harness.
- Just to confirm a question I had along the way, the antenna power wires are all connected (from my radio, main harness, and antenna connector)
- The Green/Orange wire from the PJB/Bluetooth Module runs straight up from it, and I personally found it easier to tie into above where I was able to remove just some of the electrical tape and have access to a decently long piece of the wire (roughly 6 inches). This also left the area around the connector looking clean.
- I had the same issue as others where getting the PTT/OnHook/OffHook buttons to be noticed was a PITA. What I found worked for me was to disconnect the connector from the PJB/Bluetooth module, and mine is working w/ that remaining disconnected. (So now that I think about it, if I repeated this process, I probably would have just grabbed the Green/Orange wire signal using the same method SilverSteel used to tie into the AUX connections).
- Make sure the ASWC-1 recognizes your radio properly. I was connecting to the Sony XAV-AX100 and for a while it was being recognized improperly. Getting this correct will also affect if the buttons do/don't work.
- I also installed a back-up camera. I used the reverse light to supply power & signaling to the radio. If I could go back and do it over I'd probably try and find a key-switched 12V source in the trunk to keep the camera powered when the car is on.
- A nifty trick I did use, I used a 25ft wire that carried both power (dc barrel) and video in one wire. I bought a barrel jack adapter and was able to feed the reverse signal up to the radio through this (so I only had to run one wire). Some notes on this: be sure to ground out the negative(shielding) lead to ground (I originally tried to shield w/ active 12V, and between the wire & the camera, was creating a short to ground).
- I used 3M automotive adhesive tape to adhere the camera mounting plate to the car (be sure and line up the camera angle before mounting).
- To run the aftermarket mic, I removed the light/sunglass holder and mounted the mic in the open grill, then ran the wire down the A pillar and in the driver footwell.

I think that's all. A big thanks to starting this thread and all who contributed!
 
I am in the middle of an install and am having trouble with the ppt/onhook/offhook, from what I am reading, you can disconnect the Bluetooth module to have the buttons functioning? This is on a 2015 cx-5 with a Kenwood 9904s


Just did this over the weekend, and here are some of my insights:

- The stereo is tied to Fuse "AUDIO2" located under the vehicle hood.
- I would recommend buying an extra Metra 70-7552 harness. I appreciated having the extra pins to use on the Blue/Pink & Brown/White wires. To get the pins out, I used a larger flathead screw driver to press an indentation over the clipping piece of the pin, and after enough pressure, the wires slid straight out so that I could re-bend the clip and use it in the fresh harness.
- Just to confirm a question I had along the way, the antenna power wires are all connected (from my radio, main harness, and antenna connector)
- The Green/Orange wire from the PJB/Bluetooth Module runs straight up from it, and I personally found it easier to tie into above where I was able to remove just some of the electrical tape and have access to a decently long piece of the wire (roughly 6 inches). This also left the area around the connector looking clean.
- I had the same issue as others where getting the PTT/OnHook/OffHook buttons to be noticed was a PITA. What I found worked for me was to disconnect the connector from the PJB/Bluetooth module, and mine is working w/ that remaining disconnected. (So now that I think about it, if I repeated this process, I probably would have just grabbed the Green/Orange wire signal using the same method SilverSteel used to tie into the AUX connections).
- Make sure the ASWC-1 recognizes your radio properly. I was connecting to the Sony XAV-AX100 and for a while it was being recognized improperly. Getting this correct will also affect if the buttons do/don't work.
- I also installed a back-up camera. I used the reverse light to supply power & signaling to the radio. If I could go back and do it over I'd probably try and find a key-switched 12V source in the trunk to keep the camera powered when the car is on.
- A nifty trick I did use, I used a 25ft wire that carried both power (dc barrel) and video in one wire. I bought a barrel jack adapter and was able to feed the reverse signal up to the radio through this (so I only had to run one wire). Some notes on this: be sure to ground out the negative(shielding) lead to ground (I originally tried to shield w/ active 12V, and between the wire & the camera, was creating a short to ground).
- I used 3M automotive adhesive tape to adhere the camera mounting plate to the car (be sure and line up the camera angle before mounting).
- To run the aftermarket mic, I removed the light/sunglass holder and mounted the mic in the open grill, then ran the wire down the A pillar and in the driver footwell.

I think that's all. A big thanks to starting this thread and all who contributed!
 
Just to double check, for your usb connection, does it support data as well? I will be using the usb for Apple car play. I have tried the usb connector from metra specifically for Mazda and that doesnt work, so wondering if the Toyota one would work.
 
Mazda CX-5 2016.5 70-7552

I have the CX-5 2016.5 Sport and am trying to replace the head unit with a DNX693S. Crutchfield sent the 70-7552, but it doesn't fit any of the connectors that came off of the stock head unit. After spending some time on the phone with them, they suggested the 70-7903 that plugs into the unit behind the panel on the passenger side right. I don't see any mention of this install type on this thread. I don't have the Bose setup. Looks like 6 speakers. 2 small tweeters up on the dash and 4 door speakers. Attached are the pics of the connectors from behind the head unit and the unit in the passenger side I referenced. Any clarity here? Thank you!

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I also have a 2016.5 model without Bose setup. im trying to install a pioneer avh-2330 unit but ran into harness issue. Were you able to find one that tackles this burden?
 
I am beyond confused. Metraonline.com says my 2016 CX-5 Touring can use the Metra dash kit, but Crutchfield is saying because I have factory navigation that I can't use it??
 
Mazda CX-5 2016.5 70-7552

I have the CX-5 2016.5 Sport and am trying to replace the head unit with a DNX693S. Crutchfield sent the 70-7552, but it doesn't fit any of the connectors that came off of the stock head unit. After spending some time on the phone with them, they suggested the 70-7903 that plugs into the unit behind the panel on the passenger side right. I don't see any mention of this install type on this thread. I don't have the Bose setup. Looks like 6 speakers. 2 small tweeters up on the dash and 4 door speakers. Attached are the pics of the connectors from behind the head unit and the unit in the passenger side I referenced. Any clarity here? Thank you!

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Holy reincarnated post !!!

So, I am in the middle of upgrading my kiddo's 2016 CX5 sport audio, and... ran into this very SAME issue.

Did anyone find a good fix.??? Calling Crutchfield in the AM....

Will post any follow-on details.

Thx guys -

Linc
AZ
 
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