POWER WINDOWS PROBLEM>> fuse fine, no voltage on 30AMP fuse socket HELP!!!

:
Protege SE 1.6L
Hi everyone,


So I have a 2000 Mazda Protege SE, which came with aftermarket power windows.

Of course, they broke in the Fall last year when I was at the timmies drive through.

I remember how they broke, I tried to put my window down and I heard a "shhht shht" sound (I guess shorting?) .

Both windows aren't working (rear windows have winders)

So I decided to wait until Spring to repair them.

I checked the fuse and there is continuity (fuses are good) but there is no voltage reading on the 30AMP socket , and the little lights on the switches aren't lighting up so I guess its not a mechanical problem?

1. I am trying to figure out how to remove the panel under the steering wheel so I can check the wiring there (trace the red wire)

2. I am not sure if the red hot is coming directly from the battery, or via the fuse

3. Where would the relay be located? and what does it look like? (before I tear the door apart unneccessarily)

Please help and provide suggestions,

Thanks.
 
Hi everyone,


So I have a 2000 Mazda Protege SE, which came with aftermarket power windows.

Of course, they broke in the Fall last year when I was at the timmies drive through.

I remember how they broke, I tried to put my window down and I heard a "shhht shht" sound (I guess shorting?) .

Both windows aren't working (rear windows have winders)

So I decided to wait until Spring to repair them.

I checked the fuse and there is continuity (fuses are good) but there is no voltage reading on the 30AMP socket , and the little lights on the switches aren't lighting up so I guess its not a mechanical problem?

1. I am trying to figure out how to remove the panel under the steering wheel so I can check the wiring there (trace the red wire)

2. I am not sure if the red hot is coming directly from the battery, or via the fuse

3. Where would the relay be located? and what does it look like? (before I tear the door apart unneccessarily)

Please help and provide suggestions,

Thanks.

Update

I managed to get that panel off, and found a small black fuse box holding a 30amp fuse....the fuse was broken : so I thought this would be a simple fix!

replaced the fuse, the windows went down, but the drivers side wouldnt go back up!!

came home, and found out that new fuse blew too! so something is causing the fuse to blow!! .

I tried to short the fuse, and pushed the switch to get the drivers side to go down, but it wouldnt go back up again!!!

then the motor was humming but the window wasn't going up! next thing I know the entire door was smoking (burnt out motor?)

and the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box (not the independent one I replaced), was blown now too!

The circuit is basicaly like this red from ignition>>>>>fuse>>>> switch>>>>>motor

Is there a dead short ?



What should I do?
(boom08)
 
Have you thought about swapping in oem power windows, trims and door wiring?

why would I do that? wouldn't it mean I would have to get new switches and cut new holes in the doors?

the current switches are by the hand brake in the centre console.....
 
Yes, it means there is a short that is causing the issue. Check where the wires would be most likely to flex repeatedly, like in the door jam. Sometimes finding where the short is located is very difficult. In the event that you can't find it, I recommend that you take your car to an Auto Electric shop. They tackle hard-to-find electrical issues, every day and are typically very good at it.
 
Back