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Thread: My 2002.5 P5 AwesomeSauce build thread

  1. #46
    Registered Member Brian_K's Avatar

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    I had the same problem with the last turbo i purchased. I tried WD40 without success, PB blaster ended up working much better.

    car looks great!

  2. #47
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Taco Cat View Post
    Sounds good man!
    Thanks! Sold my Megan Racing exhaust and now I want to get a full 3" turbo back made. Also going to get a pope 3" downpipe. I ran open downpipe for a little and I love the turbo whistle but the sound of the exhaust is just

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian_K View Post
    I had the same problem with the last turbo i purchased. I tried WD40 without success, PB blaster ended up working much better.

    car looks great!
    Thanks man! Letting it soak over night did the trick. Although it felt like my pliers broke when the ring got loose. Was stuck in there pretty good. Need to get some more things but the car has to painted next.

  3. #48
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Found out I still had an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket...... Changed the gasket and put in new Hydra hardware as well as a new upper timing belt cover. My old one was just destroyed. Wasn't able to get the lower one off as I couldn't get the nut holding the crankshaft pulley off. Gonna do that some other time. Also installed the canadian egr valve. Now just need to drive the car around for a few days and see if the CEL comes back on. Hopefully it doesn't lol.





    Time to get a new Valve Cover from Signature Products

    Last edited by MeAndMyPenguin; 01-06-2016 at 03:22 AM.

  4. #49
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Ok, sooo looks like my old EGR valve was fine as the P0401 code came back on with the canadian EGR valve. Which means that the EGR pipe is clogged up or one of the ground wires I moved from the side of the motor isn't grounded good enough? Gonna take off the throttle body and clean that as well as try and clean the EGR pipe. Need to get this CEL to turn off

  5. #50
    Registered Member ZealoustheEnder's Avatar
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    2003 MazdaSpeed Protege

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    I read in the service manual that an egr code is permanent and the dealer has to reset. Do you have a code checker?

    Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk

  6. #51
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZealoustheEnder View Post
    I read in the service manual that an egr code is permanent and the dealer has to reset. Do you have a code checker?

    Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
    I don't think so. Had that same code come on before and was able to fix it by cleaning the EGR valve. Now I think it's just a clogged pipe. Yea I have a code scanner. I have a P0090 and P0401

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  7. #52
    Registered Member ZealoustheEnder's Avatar
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    And if you reset the codes come back.

    Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk

  8. #53
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZealoustheEnder View Post
    And if you reset the codes come back.

    Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
    Yep. I have a feeling something is clogged

    Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

  9. #54
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Changed the 45 degree coupler from the BOV pipe to MAF with a 2.5" pipe. The cold side used to wobble around a lot cause the coupler was flimsy. Now its way more sturdy.

    Hard Pipe Install

  10. #55
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Changed some vacuum lines tonight. I T'ed the boost gauge and BOV together going to a port on the manifold. I also T'ed the SSAFC with the MAP sensor vacuum line. Before I had the MAP sensor vacuum T'ed with the VTCS and VICS solenoid. Was reading that the MAP sensor could cause the EGR code to pop up? Decided to "try" and put all the vacuum lines back to their original places.

    Had the PRC solenoid vacuum T'ed with another line and put it back to its original spot with no T. Hopefully that clears up the P0090 code I had. So the only lines that are T'ed are the boost and BOV lines, and the MAP sensor and SSAFC.

    Should I take the T off of the MAP sensor vacuum line and have it by itself and connect the SSAFC with the boost and BOV lines?

  11. #56
    Registered Member ZealoustheEnder's Avatar
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    Depends on where you have the T the solenoid it's between the manifold and the MAP sensor is what keeps the MAP sensor only seeing positive pressure.

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  12. #57
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

    2002.5 Mazdaspeed Protege5

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    Changing around the vacuum lines fixed my EGR problem! No EGR code pending anymore but I still have the P0090 code. Read that this code doesn't trigger the CEL but I still want to get rid of it.

    Some of the possible causes are:

    -PRC solenoid valve malfunction
    -Connector or terminal malfunction
    -Short to ground in wiring between PRC solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 95
    -Open circuit in wiring between main relay terminal D and PRC solenoid valve terminal A
    -Open circuit in wiring between PRC solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 95
    -Short to power circuit between PRC solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 95
    -PCM malfunction

    Gonna check the wiring tomorrow to see if there are any tears or split wires. I already tested the solenoid by directly wiring it to the battery and it does divert the air but could still be an issue maybe. I measured the resistance of the solenoid and it was around 40 ohms. The workshop manual says it's supposed to be around 22-26 ohms. I'm leaning towards getting another solenoid but I want to make sure that everything else is checked off in the possible causes. The PCM can be crossed off already as I had to get another ECU already as my first one had a damaged pin and wouldn't allow me to read any codes.

  13. #58
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

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    I checked voltage on the harness side and it reads 12 volts when ignition is on. I had plugged the sensor back in and turned the ignition key on and saw that the solenoid wasn't diverting the air so I believe I found the issue. Weird cause it was diverting the air when I directly wired the solenoid to a 12 volt battery?

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeAndMyPenguin View Post
    I checked voltage on the harness side and it reads 12 volts when ignition is on. I had plugged the sensor back in and turned the ignition key on and saw that the solenoid wasn't diverting the air so I believe I found the issue. Weird cause it was diverting the air when I directly wired the solenoid to a 12 volt battery?
    Many of those have power all the time with the key on. The PCM switches on the ground side to cycle the valve.
    2002 Protege5 5 Speed, Pure White, FSZE Swap, Konig Incident 17's
    2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3

  15. #60
    Registered Member MeAndMyPenguin's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrGiggles View Post
    Many of those have power all the time with the key on. The PCM switches on the ground side to cycle the valve.
    What do you suggest I do to further test the solenoid?

    Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

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