My 2002.5 P5 AwesomeSauce build thread

Some good progress today! Bought a new timing belt upper and lower cover and a canadian egr valve. I was also able to change the oil cooler gasket. Was a real pain in the ass but I got it done. Torqued that down and put a new oil filter on it.

How i'm going to route my piping. Going to get a slim fan and put it in front on the condenser as a push fan. Eventually going to have SS braided water lines so I can route the piping better and have space for a mishimoto fan shroud which is coming in the future.







Going to be tapping some holes for the wastegate bracket tomorrow but I have it mocked up so I can try and measure where to drill.





That's it for today, a lot of progress was made and i'm super happy! Will have a running car soon again :D

To Do List:
- Tap new holes for wategate bracket
- Fix stripped exhaust manifold bolt hole on head
- Torque down turbo water hard pipes
- Torque down exhaust manifold
- Clamp water lines
- New coolant/oil

Then should be start up time
 
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Some good progress today! Bought a new timing belt upper and lower cover and a canadian egr valve. I was also able to change the oil cooler gasket. Was a real pain in the ass but I got it done. Torqued that down and put a new oil filter on it.

Finally got that dam snap ring off :D



I also found that something is leaking really bad all over the left side of the block. Pretty sure its oil but I'm just going to clean it off and see check up on it again later. Also, I might a have a stripped bolt hole on the head. If it is, then i'm going to repair it with a helicoil.



How i'm going to route my piping. Going to get a slim fan and put it in front on the condenser as a push fan. Eventually going to have SS braided water lines so I can route the piping better and have space for a mishimoto fan shroud which is coming in the future.







Going to be tapping some holes for the wastegate bracket tomorrow but I have it mocked up so I can try and measure where to drill.





That's it for today, a lot of progress was made and i'm super happy! Will have a running car soon again :D

To Do List:
- Tap new holes for wategate bracket
- Fix stripped exhaust manifold bolt hole on head
- Torque down turbo water hard pipes
- Torque down exhaust manifold
- Clamp water lines
- New coolant/oil

Then should be start up time
I would tap the turbo for wastegate actuator signal.
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A few days late but I got the car up and running nicely! Just need to fix a P0401 and a P0090. Still waiting on my canadian EGR valve. Hopefully that fixes the P0401. Gonna try and change the FPR solenoid and see if that fixes the P0090.

Got a ATP quick tap fitting for my wastegate source. Didnt want to get a fitting and drill a hole in the housing.

 
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I had the same problem with the last turbo i purchased. I tried WD40 without success, PB blaster ended up working much better.

car looks great!
 
Sounds good man! (thumb)

Thanks! Sold my Megan Racing exhaust and now I want to get a full 3" turbo back made. Also going to get a pope 3" downpipe. I ran open downpipe for a little and I love the turbo whistle but the sound of the exhaust is just (notcool)

I had the same problem with the last turbo i purchased. I tried WD40 without success, PB blaster ended up working much better.

car looks great!

Thanks man! Letting it soak over night did the trick. Although it felt like my pliers broke when the ring got loose. Was stuck in there pretty good. Need to get some more things but the car has to painted next.
 
Found out I still had an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket...... Changed the gasket and put in new Hydra hardware as well as a new upper timing belt cover. My old one was just destroyed. Wasn't able to get the lower one off as I couldn't get the nut holding the crankshaft pulley off. Gonna do that some other time. Also installed the canadian egr valve. Now just need to drive the car around for a few days and see if the CEL comes back on. Hopefully it doesn't lol.





Time to get a new Valve Cover from Signature Products

 
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Ok, sooo looks like my old EGR valve was fine as the P0401 code came back on with the canadian EGR valve. Which means that the EGR pipe is clogged up or one of the ground wires I moved from the side of the motor isn't grounded good enough? Gonna take off the throttle body and clean that as well as try and clean the EGR pipe. Need to get this CEL to turn off
 
I read in the service manual that an egr code is permanent and the dealer has to reset. Do you have a code checker?

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I read in the service manual that an egr code is permanent and the dealer has to reset. Do you have a code checker?

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I don't think so. Had that same code come on before and was able to fix it by cleaning the EGR valve. Now I think it's just a clogged pipe. Yea I have a code scanner. I have a P0090 and P0401

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Changed the 45 degree coupler from the BOV pipe to MAF with a 2.5" pipe. The cold side used to wobble around a lot cause the coupler was flimsy. Now its way more sturdy.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/127689396@N02/23550785404/in/datetaken/" title="Hard Pipe Install"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1577/23550785404_d4fd9b557f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="Hard Pipe Install"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Changed some vacuum lines tonight. I T'ed the boost gauge and BOV together going to a port on the manifold. I also T'ed the SSAFC with the MAP sensor vacuum line. Before I had the MAP sensor vacuum T'ed with the VTCS and VICS solenoid. Was reading that the MAP sensor could cause the EGR code to pop up? Decided to "try" and put all the vacuum lines back to their original places.

Had the PRC solenoid vacuum T'ed with another line and put it back to its original spot with no T. Hopefully that clears up the P0090 code I had. So the only lines that are T'ed are the boost and BOV lines, and the MAP sensor and SSAFC.

Should I take the T off of the MAP sensor vacuum line and have it by itself and connect the SSAFC with the boost and BOV lines?
 
Depends on where you have the T the solenoid it's between the manifold and the MAP sensor is what keeps the MAP sensor only seeing positive pressure.

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Changing around the vacuum lines fixed my EGR problem! :D No EGR code pending anymore but I still have the P0090 code. Read that this code doesn't trigger the CEL but I still want to get rid of it.

Some of the possible causes are:

-PRC solenoid valve malfunction
-Connector or terminal malfunction
-Short to ground in wiring between PRC solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 95
-Open circuit in wiring between main relay terminal D and PRC solenoid valve terminal A
-Open circuit in wiring between PRC solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 95
-Short to power circuit between PRC solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 95
-PCM malfunction

Gonna check the wiring tomorrow to see if there are any tears or split wires. I already tested the solenoid by directly wiring it to the battery and it does divert the air but could still be an issue maybe. I measured the resistance of the solenoid and it was around 40 ohms. The workshop manual says it's supposed to be around 22-26 ohms. I'm leaning towards getting another solenoid but I want to make sure that everything else is checked off in the possible causes. The PCM can be crossed off already as I had to get another ECU already as my first one had a damaged pin and wouldn't allow me to read any codes.
 
I checked voltage on the harness side and it reads 12 volts when ignition is on. I had plugged the sensor back in and turned the ignition key on and saw that the solenoid wasn't diverting the air so I believe I found the issue. Weird cause it was diverting the air when I directly wired the solenoid to a 12 volt battery?
 
I checked voltage on the harness side and it reads 12 volts when ignition is on. I had plugged the sensor back in and turned the ignition key on and saw that the solenoid wasn't diverting the air so I believe I found the issue. Weird cause it was diverting the air when I directly wired the solenoid to a 12 volt battery?

Many of those have power all the time with the key on. The PCM switches on the ground side to cycle the valve.
 
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