Ijen CAI for the Mazda 2

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Sebastian339

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Mazda 2 AT 1.5
Hi folk. Im buying an intake for me 2. I saw the Ijen CAI on eBay but in the description it said That the intake only fit the maZda 2 with manual transmision. I have an Automatic. Anyone tried this intake on an automatic??? Thanks!! Pictures please!!
 
I believe it does not fit automatic. The automatic transmission is much bigger than the manual, and the injen intake fits in the gap between the manual transmission and front forward frame.
 
I think it might be the best out there in terms of power gains, and I like the design. Andy Hollis ran it on his 2. I know a couple others around here have run it too, and I don't recall hearing about any problems. just don't drive through any puddles high enough to touch the bottom of the front bumper.
 
Everything I've seen from actual testing of CAI's on a dyno have seemed to say that CAI's are fine in concept, but don't actually play out with real HP gains. Anyone want to counter? Any reason a CAI would be better than an SRI? And is the air really that much colder right on top of hot asphalt?
 
^^^^
On this engine I know there aren't going to be any noticeable gains but,
I'm just trying to decide between the Injen and the CS.

Mike
 
You're really not going to notice any gains on a dyno anyway, since the car isn't moving. Even with a fan blowing it's going to be different from real-world driving.
 
BigBlueDart said:
Everything I've seen from actual testing of CAI's on a dyno have seemed to say that CAI's are fine in concept, but don't actually play out with real HP gains. Anyone want to counter? Any reason a CAI would be better than an SRI? And is the air really that much colder right on top of hot asphalt?
Click to expand...

CAIs tend to lose low-end torque in return for high-end power. For a DD, it's not always the ideal choice as a result, as it can end up feeling slower than stock when driving around town. And of course, you also carry the risk of hydrolock. SRIs don't have long or convoluted piping, so they can fare better in low RPM when driving. But the filter is also right beside the engine, so it will be sucking in a lot of hot air when you're moving slow or at a stoplight. You won't have the same high-end power gains, but you also don't have to worry about sucking in water.

Of course, this is all dependent upon the specific application, since there's a lot of variables that can affect outcomes here. An SRI on our car is probably as good as they get, since it's far away from the header and you can funnel cool air directly to it if you have an accompanying duct (my data logging suggests that intake temp drops rapidly once you start moving even just a little). It's also a very short and perfectly straight tube (some SRIs are C-shaped or curve), which is ideal. I can't speak for the CAI for the 2 because I don't have one, but nobody here has complained about it, so it's probably a good option too as long as you avoid puddles.
 
Yes, thanks, Scorpio. A great explanation. I always felt like some of this CAI "mythbusting" was a bit oversimplified. Still, at least for our car and the way the SRI sits in the engine bay, its sounds like an SRI may be the way to go. I'd still like to see a good study on how driving on hot pavement can affect a CAI's performance, vs an SRI, with perhaps heat-shielding and/or ducting.
 
I think the Corksport SRI with the duct is the hot setup for our cars. I drove my buddy's car with one before he sold his and it's definitely on my shortlist now.
 
Andres did a bunch of dyno testing IIRC and the config that made the most power was a cold air setup similar to the injen design. But for daily driving I love my corksport setup with the snorkel.
 
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