flatlander937's Mazda2 build - SCCA STF / NASA NXF

Got the oil and filter changed(Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and Purolator PureOne filter), and changed the trans fluid with Redline MTL. Also used a magnetic drain plug for the engine oil... to make me feel happy on the inside. :)

Seems to shift a bit smoother now, if its like my Mazda3 was, then shifting will improve even more over the next few hundred miles.


If my son takes a nap I'll maybe sneak out to the garage and try to get some camber plate progress made.


edit: Also when I had the battery out for access to the trans fill plug, I weighed it. The battery in it is 32.6lbs... lots of weight reduction to be had there. Will probably go with some cheap ATV/Motorcycle battery for the auto-x season. I have some gift cards to <s>hell</s> Walmart that would take care of that. Will just have to make up an adapter or buy some to normal SAE battery posts.
 
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Just realized I forgot to update this thread.

Revised camber plates drawn out last week... I decided to ditch the round ones I originally cut out. These are slightly lighter, have more material around the bolt holes, and frankly just look cooler.

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Used a Walmart gift card to get this battery for $10 out of pocket. I normally avoid the place like the plague so otherwise wouldn't even be there.

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Back to the camber plates, I cut them out earlier this week:

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Lots of time with an angle grinder and I was looking like a hobo:

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Then finally tonight got over to a friend's shop to weld the bearing retainers into the plate flats. I used some 1/8" scrap aluminum to space the plate below the bearing retainer. I also pressed some solid 1-3/16" rod into the bearing retainers(with high temp anti-seize) to resist warping when welding.

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And the finished product:

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Need to clean them up just a bit more, deburr the inside of the bearing retainers, and paint then I'll press the bearings in.
 
I forgot to mention this when I saw the pictures on facebook last night, but have you checked the fitment of corner which points to the inside of the car when installed? I mention it because I was recently checking the fit of the stock top hats in my car and the metal on the inside stud can only be about 1/2" or so outside of the stud center before it gets into the radius which goes to the vertical part of the strut tower. I was kind of surprised it was that close.

You might have already checked this, but I just wanted to mention it because it surprised me. I was looking at how much play there was for camber adjustment in the top hats and I was trying ot figure out why I couldn't slide it inwards all of the way and it was because the stock hat was getting into that radius.

Progress is looking good. I will have my car driving and aligned this Sunday!!
 
I actually haven't, I guess I'll just clearance the corners before doing much else before I install them. Thanks for the heads up!

Debating whether I want to just tack some bolts in there or source some actual studs to press in. I'm having a hard time finding press-in style M8-1.25 or 1.5 studs. 5/16in studs would also work. Problem is finding tiny studs that look like wheel studs that are... not wheel stud sized is damn near impossible.

Will just end up buying grade 8 5/16" bolts I'm sure.
 
Very cool! The camber plates kind of look like rotors, too (how fitting for a Mazda).
 
Not sure if all of these links will work correctly. If you are looking for studs.

http://www.ksportusa.com/b2c/proddetail.php?prod=RPTB001

http://www.mcmaster.com/#93580a325/=wvj5rd


Thanks! I decided I'll just tack weld some bolts for the time being. I'll probably be re-making some top mounts from 3/16" or 1/8" later on so I'll implement studs then.


Very cool! The camber plates kind of look like rotors, too (how fitting for a Mazda).

That was the plan :)

Nice work man! :)

Thanks!




Currently waiting on some custom spacers for the camber plates for adequate clearance. I'll also be shaving the edges of the bearing retainers for more angle while taking up less shaft threads in spacers.

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I am actually going to get the one spacer to have a 7mm space, not 9mm. Threaded space on the strut shaft is at a premium.

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That's with only a jam nut(6mm thick). I really need more room to use either a nylock nut(11mm thick) or a normal + jam nut(about 16mm total).

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You look for a "Binx nut"
We use them at work some times, its low profile all metal locking nut?

:D
 
You look for a "Binx nut"
We use them at work some times, its low profile all metal locking nut?

:D

I think that's a British name hah.


Anyway progress...

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Full droop:

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Full bump:

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Hopefully ride height?

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And welded up/bracing/brackets added:

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I am an idiot and forgot that I had no coil perches for the rear, so I'm scrambling to get adjusters for them so I can actually install next weekend.



edit: I forgot to add that I kinda fingered the back side of the tire while it was fitted to the strut... I think I have nearly an inch of clearance between the tire and strut. That means I should be able to easily stuff a 15x9 wheel without a problem. It will be about a half inch closer to the strut, and the outside will stick out about an inch further than the wheel does currently, maybe one day....
 
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When you checked tire clearance, any idea how much camber that was with? It effects it a lot. With my 225's I have about 3/16"

Zach
 
Been slacking off in posting here since its already been posted in the M2O Facebook group for a week, so finally getting around to cross posting here. (If you haven't joined yet you need to... https://m.facebook.com/groups/431895740279303?ref=content_filter )
Ground some more on the top hats for more angle, also tacked the bolts on so I don't need to fiddle with it while tightening:

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Cleaned up everything to paint:

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Primed everything:



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And painted...


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....
 
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The yellow is on the inside now :cool:

Filled the housing with differential fluid to keep water out and prevent rusting of the insert to the bottom of the housing. Thread lock used on the gland nut.

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Time for install...
 
Ran into a few minor issues as expected when making your own s*** on your daily driver.


Light wheel contact on right front.

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It fit when mocked up originally, the weld bead added enough thickness to contact, plus I had it set to -3 degree camber. The pass side was made just a bit lower so its not a problem but I do need to add some camber to it by slotting the holes a tad more.






Trimmed down with a dremel:


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Now just a kissing from the wheel weight seen here:

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Which has since been taken care of.

In the meantime here's a shot of the goods:


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In the rear I want to get the spring adjuster bottom ground at an angle for better spring seating, and drill holes through the bottom to bolt it on rigid. The Fiesta/Mazda2 rear Koni Sports are way too damn long as they're same as stock....

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I ended up trimming the bump stops a bit in the rear, basically cut the clean section from the bottom seen here:


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I've put around 120mi on it so far, it feels great! It drives incredibly well and is not harsh whatsoever. Just have to take speed bumps slower.


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Today I'll be fine tuning the alignment trying to correct a pull right when braking HARD(I also suspect I may have gotten some antiseize on the left rotor possibly so will check that too), I think its the mismatched camber and maybe caster left to right, also double check ride heights since I've put some miles on it. I'm also going to cut a bit more from the rear bumps I think.
 
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Awesome! Hopefully in the not too horribly distant future koni will make bolt in front struts for those of us less talented.
 

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