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Thread: Changing CX-9 transfer case gear oil (photos)

  1. #46
    Registered Member Rawyzf's Avatar
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    Great write-up and information in this thread! Well Done.

    I had this thread from last year (60,000 miles). We're now at about 85,000, so next oil change will be Engine Oil, TC, Rear Diff. Transmission should still be good for a while.

    http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...nges&highlight=

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  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rawyzf View Post

    I had this thread from last year (60,000 miles). We're now at about 85,000
    Hi Rawyzf,
    so you changed your transfer case oil at 60,000 miles using Avidien's procedure and now your at 85,000 miles with no problems ? did you use Royal Purple oil ? I'm planning to do the transfer case oil maintenance before the cold weather starts, I'm close to 20,000 miles now.

  3. #48
    Registered Member Rawyzf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astriuminc View Post
    Hi Rawyzf,
    so you changed your transfer case oil at 60,000 miles using Avidien's procedure and now your at 85,000 miles with no problems ? did you use Royal Purple oil ? I'm planning to do the transfer case oil maintenance before the cold weather starts, I'm close to 20,000 miles now.
    I had it done at a transmission shop. No issues at all, used Mobil 1 Synthetic in the TC.
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  4. #49
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    just did the procedure this morning, very easy, even for me. I'm the last person you'll want to work on your car, I know nothing about them, I'm even scared to jack up the car worried I may jack it at the wrong jack point and bust a hole in the undercarriage so I asked all my local dealers and every dealer said "can't be done, it's sealed". I gave up looking and jacked up the CX-9 up using Avidien's cement blocks idea, worked like a charm. When I got the plug out, the plug was full of gunk and sludge!!! Mine is 2011, 48,000 miles, I only got 1/4 cup of oil out using the electric pump, I suspect the rest is sludge. I refilled with Royal Purple until only new oil started dripping out. I'm going to run it for 500 miles and try to dilute and redo the procedure. No way in hell this should be lifetime oil.
    Last edited by batmancx; 10-11-2015 at 07:29 PM.

  5. #50
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    Ive got about 10K miles on my replaced updated transfer case. With all the issues, im already thinking its time for a flush and fill.

  6. #51
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    Found a well written three-part write up from the Ford Flex forum which uses the same CX-9 transfer case, their procedure is very similar to our how to procedure except ours use an electric pump to suction out the old oil and include detailed pictures, I agree with their assessment that the notion of lifetime oil is ridiculous and also there's "less drivetrain drag" and improved mileage after changing oil:

    http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9334
    Last edited by astriuminc; 10-17-2015 at 03:01 PM.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by batmancx View Post
    just did the procedure this morning, very easy, even for me. I'm the last person you'll want to work on your car, I know nothing about them, I'm even scared to jack up the car worried I may jack it at the wrong jack point and bust a hole in the undercarriage so I asked all my local dealers and every dealer said "can't be done, it's sealed". I gave up looking and jacked up the CX-9 up using Avidien's cement blocks idea, worked like a charm. When I got the plug out, the plug was full of gunk and sludge!!! Mine is 2011, 48,000 miles, I only got 1/4 cup of oil out using the electric pump, I suspect the rest is sludge. I refilled with Royal Purple until only new oil started dripping out. I'm going to run it for 500 miles and try to dilute and redo the procedure. No way in hell this should be lifetime oil.
    just re-did the "suction flush and fill" this morning after driving around for 500 miles this past week to try to dilute the sludge, I was able to get about 16 oz. of oil out this time (much more than the 1/4 cup the first time). I highly recommend any AWD owners past 15,000 miles to do this procedure to protect the transfer case from overheating and damaging the gasket seals especially with winter season coming. I will post updates as I accumulate more mileage. Many thanks to Avidien for posting the pictures, they really help a lot and make the process very easy.
    Last edited by batmancx; 10-18-2015 at 11:17 PM.

  8. #53
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    Just a quick update for AWD members. I did first swap on 2011 CX-9 AWD at 48,000 miles, only got 1/4 cup of old oil out, rest was sludge. Filled with new royal purple, drove 500 miles and suctioned flush and filled till new oil dripped out of fill hole. Since then, I have accumulated 1000 miles now, absolutely no transfer case problems. I'm glad I did the maintenance, I don't think the transfer case would have lasted if I didn't. From now on, I'm going to change every 6000 miles like Avidien.
    Last edited by batmancx; 10-25-2015 at 05:58 PM.

  9. #54
    Registered Member avidien's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rawyzf View Post
    Great write-up and information in this thread! Well Done.

    I had this thread from last year (60,000 miles). We're now at about 85,000, so next oil change will be Engine Oil, TC, Rear Diff. Transmission should still be good for a while.

    http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...nges&highlight=

    -Ryan
    Thanks.

    Quick long term update for fellow AWD owners, I'm close to 78,000 myself now; still on my original transfer case, woohoo!

    I'm absolutely 100% positive this is the fix for the infamous CX-9 transfer case problems.

    I'm going to change TC oil again at 80,000 miles before the really cold weather starts, I believe cold weather is the biggest enemy for CX-9 transfer cases since there's so little capacity and if the oil is already thick; the cold weather will make it even thicker, so want to have fresh oil in there during the winter months since I don't have a garage and don't want to be freezing my butt off doing TC oil change in the freezing cold.

    Also the cold weather may make the oil harder to suction out, obvious, I would warm it up first with a quick drive first but I don't think the suction hose tubing will be as pliable in the cold to get in really deep into the transfer case.
    Last edited by avidien; 11-09-2015 at 12:36 PM.

  10. #55
    Registered Member avidien's Avatar
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    video of removing transfer case plug

    hello fellow CX-9ers,

    I received a lot of private messages asking me for a video of how to get to the CX-9 transfer case plug using the "crossover" method,
    it turned out to be a really nice 60 degree day so I figured I change the transfer case oil @ 78,500 miles before the winter comes and take a video for fellow members.

    here's a video of how I'm able to loosen the transfer case plug with the low-profile stubby 3/8" drive (from Amazon) using the "crossover" method,



    you can see I reach over the left of the crossbeam then "crossover" and above to get to the transfer case plug:



    Also, I got this forehead LED from Walmart (2 pack for $4.97) works great



    Here is a picture of the transfer case plug and Royal Purple 75W140 gear oil, no sludge !! just some small amount of metal particles as expected on the magnet. You can also see some of the VC-3 orange sealant came off during plug removal, I reapplied new VC-3 when I reinstalled the plug.



    Here is video and picture of the used oil drippings, I highly recommend getting a large aluminum drip pan (I got mine at Walmart, they run about $12 but well worth it to catch the mess)





    Here is a video of me pumping out all the old oil, I got about 14 oz of used Royal Purple oil out, absolutely no signs of sludge, oil still looks like it can go 10,000 miles but I rather play it safe and get it changed now since there's no way for me to change it in the cold weather, I probably won;t change until April 2016 or around 90,000 miles, I WILL SAY IT AGAIN, THAT $21 ELECTRIC OIL PUMP IS THE BEST THING EVER !!! LOL , don't mess with those manual pumps, just go with the electric pump, it's so much easier !!!!



    Here is a video of me "flushing" out the residual oil out of electric pump lines for the next use, you can see Royal Purple oil is still good and no sludge




    I hope the videos help out all the fellow members who asked me to post video of how I removed the plug. Good Luck.
    Last edited by avidien; 11-15-2015 at 08:58 PM.

  11. #56
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    Great tip about the drip pan. I've been using leftover cardboard all my life but with the amount of mess this project causes I think that drip pan is the way to go.

  12. #57
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    Thanks avidien for the write up. I completed this last night with very few issues.

    I wish I would have jacked it up higher for more clearance.

    The biggest issue was that I didn't have a low profile 3/8 socket wrench. I was still able to get the plug out and in, but it took some extra effort. Going over the cross member actually made access relatively easy. My plug looked similar to avidien's, even though mine(my wife's) has ~115k miles on it.

    I purchased the electric pump as well and it worked pretty good. The oil (more like goop) was cold, so it didn't flow well, which made the pumping more difficult. I was only able to get about 8oz out, but better than nothing. I'm sure if I let it run longer more would have been pulled out. Pumping fresh stuff took some time as I had to hold the tube to the pump because it kept sliding off.

    I'll probably tackle this again in the spring when it's warmer.

  13. #58
    Registered Member avidien's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odrapnew View Post
    Thanks avidien for the write up. I completed this last night with very few issues.

    I wish I would have jacked it up higher for more clearance.

    The biggest issue was that I didn't have a low profile 3/8 socket wrench. I was still able to get the plug out and in, but it took some extra effort. Going over the cross member actually made access relatively easy. My plug looked similar to avidien's, even though mine(my wife's) has ~115k miles on it.

    I purchased the electric pump as well and it worked pretty good. The oil (more like goop) was cold, so it didn't flow well, which made the pumping more difficult. I was only able to get about 8oz out, but better than nothing. I'm sure if I let it run longer more would have been pulled out. Pumping fresh stuff took some time as I had to hold the tube to the pump because it kept sliding off.

    I'll probably tackle this again in the spring when it's warmer.
    you're very welcome Odrapnew, I'm glad it went well with no hiccups,

    with only 8 oz of old oil recovered, sounds like you caught it in time before the winter season,

    good to have fresh oil especially when it's cold.

    After seeing the goop and sludge yourself, I bet you're now a firm believer that there's no way that oil should be classified as "lifetime" right ?

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by avidien View Post
    you're very welcome Odrapnew, I'm glad it went well with no hiccups,

    with only 8 oz of old oil recovered, sounds like you caught it in time before the winter season,

    good to have fresh oil especially when it's cold.

    After seeing the goop and sludge yourself, I bet you're now a firm believer that there's no way that oil should be classified as "lifetime" right ?
    Yeah, I was a believer before, but this reinforced it. I wish I would have saved some of it and sent it in for analysis. Regardless, definitely worth the effort. Since my wife just paid it off, gotta do the "little" maintenance things to keep it on the road for a while.

    As for only recovering 8oz, I was only able to add ~8oz of fresh stuff as well before it started overflowing, so I think there was more in there. I'll do it again in the spring once the new stuff mixes in and dilutes the goo. Plus, I'll do it when the lube is warmer so it flows better.

  15. #60
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    I did mine when the car was warm. Just a warning, there's a lot of parts that take a really long time to cool off in that area. Makes the job even more fun.

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