2008 Mazda5 Sport Front Driver Lock Actuator Help

prophetp11

Member
:
Mazda 5
Hello everyone. Sorry if my first post is a question, but I have been trying to wrap my brain around how to fix this actuator. My girlfriend's mother recently acquired a 2008 Mazda5 Sport, and its great. Unfortunately the driver's side door does not lock or unlock when using the switchblade key fob. It will only lock and unlock when using the physical key. When the key fob is pressed, I can see and hear the mechanism groan and try to move, but I feel that the motor might be on its way out.

I have seen this thread : http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123821382-Driver-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor-Fix

and I have high hopes of repairing it myself as I have replaced a lock actuator before. My only concern is the lack of DIY or pictures to aid my endeavor. I have taken a few from when I popped the door panel off. Can someone please chime in and tell me what I have to remove in order to access the lock actuator? Does what I describe sound like a failing lock actuator? (That's what I feel, but of course I could be wrong) And has anyone else replaced the motor with what the OP in the thread suggested?

Here is picture number 1.
2r2qjxl.jpg

Circled in Yellow is the mechanism that I can visibly see and hear trying to move when I press on the key fob.
The Red squares are what I assume I will have to remove to access the interior of the door itself. (Please feel free to point out any mistakes or corrections)
What is that I circled in Green??

Picture number 2.
2mfdf2a.jpg

Red squares are what I assume will have to be removed to free up the actual lock actuator. I know there will probably be metal rods that connect the exterior keyhole to the interior mechanism to lock and unlock the door. Any hints or suggestions are welcome.

Reason I am asking the forum first, is because it is difficult for my girlfriend's mom to come over and spend hours waiting while I tinker with her van. I would personally like to dive in with a little better understanding rather than flying blind.

I would love to make a DIY if I can fix the lock actuator with more pictures and steps for everyone to follow if possible. Thanks for all your consideration!
 
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Ok, green circle is window motor, don't unbolt that from the sub panel unless you want to have a bad day as the gear for the window regulator will fall apart unspooling the cables. For someone who has never done this before I would suggest completely unbolting the sub panel from the door to give you the most room and visibility, but to do it the window has to be unbolted from the regulator and supported in the full up position. There are two black access plugs in the middle of the sub panel. Remove those and roll the window down until you can see the 2 10mm bolts that hold the glass to the regulator. Have someone hold the glass and remove the bolts. Then manually lift the window to full up position and secure with good masking tape by taping several long strips from window base up and over top of the door and back down the other side of the glass. Disconnect the two cables from the inner door handle by pulling them out of the retainers and then rotate them out of the receptacles in the handle and lock switch. Unplug any obvious connectors that will keep the sub panel from releasing. Remove all the 10mm sub panel bolts but not the 2 nuts in the middle at the top and bottom as those hold the regulator base to sub panel. The sub panel will come out with the regulator still bolted to the back, you just have to finagle it. Once the sub panel is removed you will be able to see the latch/lock assembly. Disconnect the rod to the outer door handle at the outer door handle by rotating the plastic retainer off the the rod and then pulling the rod out. Unscrew the 3 latch screws and the assembly will come out. I don't have any input on just replacing the motor part of the assy, I've always just put a new assembly in. Sorry I don't have any pictures, hopefully my description helps. It can be done without completely pulling the sub panel but requires working with your hands blind, squeezed between the sub panel and the door frame. That's why I recommend pulling it.
 
Thanks a lot loosenut for the reply. I wouldn't have thought to separate the window from the regulator. I ordered the motor ($5.50 from ebay) and will try to replace it once I find time. Worst case scenario is it won't work out and I have to order an OEM lock actuator. I will update my thread when the time comes. Further comments are welcome!
 
Thanks, Robotaz. I wish I had pictures to go along with it, as that would definitely help.
 
I just did this repair yesterday, but instead of replacing the lock unit, I disassembled and cleaned the motor. It is a cheap 12V low amp motor like you would find in a toy. It would probably be difficult to source a replacement though because the shaft is about 1-1/2" long, and instead of ears to connect power wires to, it plugs into prongs that stick out of the housing. If you're comfortable taking things apart, then don't be too afraid of ruining it since if you are considering replacing, what's the harm?

It was about an hour job to perform, but once you have the unit out, the hardest part is over. Sorry I didn't take pictures of the repair of the motor since I wasn't sure it was possible. This thing gave me more trouble than it should have.

IMG_20150912_120645.jpg


There is an inner tab that you must press outward for it to release, otherwise you'll probably try twisting it and break the it like I did.

If you remove about 5 of the outer screws on the left side of the inner door panel, and the plastic rivet at the top under the door handle cable, the lock assembly unit will come out of the access hole with the white plastic cover. It's just a bituminous glue holding the cover on.

This is the only photo I took of the lock assembly for reference how the outside levers should be reinstalled. Remove all the screws seen here and set them aside.

IMG_20150913_131006.jpg


You may have to cut through some of the foam to separate the black plastic latch cover. You'll know when you start pulling at it.
After you take off the plastic cover, the power lock mechanism comes off as a separate unit. Then just take a sharp knife to separate the 2 halves of its housing. There are nylon gears, wipers, contacts and the motor inside. I removed the innards of mine, left the motor in place, plugged it back into the vehicle to test it. It was obviously struggling. You take the motor apart by prying at the bent tabs on the housing, then removing the back cover. Mine was gummed up, so I cleaned it with brake cleaner, oiled it, and reassembled. The contacts/wipers had dark residue, so I cleaned those too. Electrical tape holds the housing together now.

If it goes out again, this looks like a perfect replacement - https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
@flcruising Thanks to your write up I fixed mine yesterday! I did the driver door without removing the inner panel, I followed this video to get the actuator unit out, it is the same exact process for the Mazda5. I didn't take any photos either and I regret it but my hands were covered in the grease that's inside the actuator.

The problem with mine was the gear attached to the motor became loose. So the motor was spinning but the gear wasn't grabbing. I grabbed the J-B Weld 50112 ClearWeld Epoxy (highest psi I could find). While I waited for the glue to dry I did a side project and installed the WOLO 320-2T horn... if you haven't done it, DO IT! (here's a before and after video, not the same car but horns sound similar).

For anyone that just wants to replace the entire unit the part number is CD34-59-310C for the front doors. You can get them much cheaper on eBay than the $212 at the dealer.
 
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I've since replaced both front door locks because the attempted 'fix' only worked temporarily.

Finally sucked it up and spent $150+ per side.
 

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