OEM dealer installed tow hitch and wiring?

CaboWabo

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2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring FWD Bose/moonroof, sonic silver
I'm looking to buy a new CX-5. I will need to get a tow hitch receiver now or later to pull my small boat. I think the 2000lb capacity should be sufficient.
How is the OEM dealer installed hitch receiver? Does it included the installation of the wiring harness as well? And where do they put the wire? On my 2002 Tribute the wiring plug socket is conveniently located right on the side of the OEM hitch itself, there is no long wire needed. Its very neat that way. Is the CX-5 wire plug just like that, or is it a long cord that just lays around flopping around back in the cargo area and you close the hatch over the wire when you string it to your trailer?
Also Im wondering if the dealer class 1 hitch is still the same one that was used on the old Tributes. If so, I wonder if I could take it off and use it on a CX-5.
 
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I would get a Curt class 3 hitch. Accessories are more common in the class 3 size.
 
The CX5 isn't rated for class 3 though. Wouldn't that be overkill and just added unnecessary weight to the vehicle? Class 1 or 2 should be sufficient for my boat. From what Ive seen, I like the OEM hitch, but I'm hesitant because I believe Mazda cuts a notch in the bumper to install it. Is that still the case, or did Mazda figure out a better way to do it like Curt has without any cutting?
 
A Class I hitch is a also know as a "bumper hitch" and is not suitable for our vehicles. The OEM hitch is a Class II hitch and is completely compatible with the vehicle tow limits as well what your needs are. It has a 1.25" square receiver hole for the draw bar. It requires a small cutout of the bumper in order to be installed (which, in my opinion, is not that noticeable but it does bother many folks on this forum). A Class III hitch is a heavier duty hitch which also fits the vehicle. It hangs down lower and does not require a cutout in the bumper. It has a 2" square receiver opening for the draw bar. Although it is rated to carry a larger load, it does NOT increase the safe towing limit of the vehicle. Both the Class II and Class III hitches will meet your needs AND be safe on your vehicle. It just becomes a matter of personal choice.

Also note that the wiring can be done "neatly" as you described in your original post above.
 
Thanks for the info Minnesota. Is the wiring done "neatly" with a plug-in socket when the dealer does an OEM install?
 
It is done well with a flush mounted receiver plug next to the hitch with a cover when not in use.
 
We had the stealer "include" the Mazda branded hitch. It took 3 trips to service to get mine installed, long story... But, it looks like an OK hitch. I assume the wiring and all is there, we just use it for a hitch mounted bike rack.
 
The OEM wiring harness is actually wire tapped in. The aftermarket curt uses piggy back connectors. Both hitches are similar install, aside from the mounting bolts being vertical on the curt and horizontal OEM.
 
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