Perro del Sol
Member
- :
- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
Subbed
Mazdaspeed protege daily build 250 whp goal
- Thread starter Johnoolo
- Start date
Yes. That's the BPV. Why does it look so rigged?
cause someone probably broke the brittle ass stock fittings, or he has a partial hardpipe kit ect?
get yourself a SSAFC. you dont REALLY need a ftc or even a v2 with datalogging for your power goals. an old school afc20 would work just fine. gives you enough tunability of the map if you want it, but even the stock supermap i had on mine which i never opened on a comp made the car run so much better all the time. it also eliminates the fuel cut issue. i did have some weird lean bogs from time to time that i couldn't explain but not sure it was an afc issue.
most people run ngk v power plugs. no need for iridium.
you and i are kind of similar for power goals. replacing the likely cracked manifold, fmic, bigger downpipe and exhaust, afc should get you what you need to go up to 10/12 psi and as long as you dont beat your car up, high rpm clutch dumps, boosting in 5th at low rpm ect.. it should last just fine as a dd.
get yourself a SSAFC. you dont REALLY need a ftc or even a v2 with datalogging for your power goals. an old school afc20 would work just fine. gives you enough tunability of the map if you want it, but even the stock supermap i had on mine which i never opened on a comp made the car run so much better all the time. it also eliminates the fuel cut issue. i did have some weird lean bogs from time to time that i couldn't explain but not sure it was an afc issue.
most people run ngk v power plugs. no need for iridium.
you and i are kind of similar for power goals. replacing the likely cracked manifold, fmic, bigger downpipe and exhaust, afc should get you what you need to go up to 10/12 psi and as long as you dont beat your car up, high rpm clutch dumps, boosting in 5th at low rpm ect.. it should last just fine as a dd.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Did you gap the plugs? You can't just throw plugs from the parts store in, you have to close the gap to .028" for it to run correctly.
I have them gapped to .30 which is within spec and the previous owner was kind of ignorant to this stuff and didn't seem to want to do anything proper but that problem went away when I put new gas in it I think I had some bad gas perhaps but so I need that bypass valve or could I just use a blow off valve when I install my fmic if I need it where would I put it or should I just not run a bov I've herd good things and I've herd the myth of turbines bending etc but it needs new piping where that bypass valve is it was rigged with glue and silicone by the previous owner I had to re silicone and tape the s*** out of it for it to hold which could be a possible boost leak I'd assume
holy run on sentance batman.
you have a decent amount of reading to do, but there is a thread about ebay fmic setups. most of us are running a pieced together kit from one of the cxracing auctions. you really cannot do better for the money.. they fit, they work, they cheap.
make sure you investigate the description and buy a "BAR AND PLATE" intercooler though. see what others have run for piping combinations that work. you might run the pipes different but lots of options. good search for ebay is 2.5" intercooler kit ect.
definitely plan to buy a new name brand blow off valve. most people run open vent with a relocated maf sensor to the pressure side.
no need for two valves.
you definitely want an adjustable valve as well. at stock boost, some of the valves have trouble opening and you still get surge. my hks for instance had to be modified to open quicker at low boost.
you have a decent amount of reading to do, but there is a thread about ebay fmic setups. most of us are running a pieced together kit from one of the cxracing auctions. you really cannot do better for the money.. they fit, they work, they cheap.
make sure you investigate the description and buy a "BAR AND PLATE" intercooler though. see what others have run for piping combinations that work. you might run the pipes different but lots of options. good search for ebay is 2.5" intercooler kit ect.
definitely plan to buy a new name brand blow off valve. most people run open vent with a relocated maf sensor to the pressure side.
no need for two valves.
you definitely want an adjustable valve as well. at stock boost, some of the valves have trouble opening and you still get surge. my hks for instance had to be modified to open quicker at low boost.
I very noticed that too I hope this fmic helps
slo03.5msp
Member
- :
- 03.5 yellow msp
Owned since new 260whp daily driven stock block and turbo. I don't come on really any more because it's still the same people saying you can only do so much with these cars. It's all in the tune. And I don't have an intake manifold because the performance gains are negligible below 300hp. But to give you an idea of how long I've been around I have an ion fmic. I bet most don't even know who they are or how awful it was waiting for parts back in the day. If you have any real questions pm me.
Bill
Bill
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
- :
- 2003 MSP
That looks nice. I'm getting a huge side mount from The Pope050 less piping and equivalent core.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
I'd give the bolt-on CX Racing kit a shot if I didn't already have the "universal" kit I've had for 4 years that's holding up fine. Yeah, there are more efficient systems and cores, but this will suffice.
Nothing wrong with the cxracing stuff. Just takes a littlw work to install as its all universal. The core in your lunk seems a little bigger than the one I have. Think I only have a 21x5.5x2.5 core. At 7psi there is no heatsoak and everything is happy. Upgraded smic would be great to keep short piping though.
Alright cool. Thanks!
