Mazdaspeed protege daily build 250 whp goal

SS-AFC is an air-fuel controller made by Split Second, there are a few retailers that sell them new and they pop up used every once in a while. Be sure you get the correct AFC for the MSP, part number is PSC-020E IIRC. For a reliable 250 whp you will need a forged motor in my opinion. If you are fine with risking the stock block go for it.

agreed, 250whp may be attainable on the stock bottom end, but it definitely wont last long.

I'm not a fan of the CX racing MSP FMIC kit due to how excessively long the pipe routing is. In my opinion you can build yourself a better setup with CX racing's universal kit for less than half the cost of their MSP one.
 
part number is PSC-020E IIRC.
I did a quick Google search and found part number PSC1-020E, is this the right thing?

agreed, 250whp may be attainable on the stock bottom end, but it definitely wont last long.
This means I'll have to forge the engine correct? I'll have to do more research on how to do this when I get a bit further along in my modding.

I'm not a fan of the CX racing MSP FMIC kit due to how excessively long the pipe routing is. In my opinion you can build yourself a better setup with CX racing's universal kit for less than half the cost of their MSP one.
Okay, good to know. Again, I'm still relatively new to car modding, so how hard would it be to fit the universal kit? Would I have to do any cutting? Also, would I be able to keep my foglights?

I guess what I really need to ask is, what should my first step/mod be? An FMIC, exhaust, SSAFC, or something else?
 
Me and 505 zoom had the 2 highest stock block. Dyno went with the car. See for anyone that has been here since the beginning has heard of something called a Joe p fpr. It was a fuel pressure reducer for a stock car which I ran until the ssafc was available. Most think the hesitation is too little fuel so they add!(BOOM). And to those of you who think this turbo blows hot air at over 15lbs of boost I would recommend you learn to read a compressor map. Also good products help and like I've said before I ran an ion fmic which is about as rare as a unicorn or mam tubular header.
 
See for anyone that has been here since the beginning has heard of something called a Joe p fpr. It was a fuel pressure reducer for a stock car which I ran until the ssafc was available. Most think the hesitation is too little fuel so they add!(BOOM)
So I assume I should get a wideband o2 sensor and AFR kit to go with the SSAFC?
 
You will need a wideband for sure, I would not worry about the FPR kit if you get the AFC. AFC can actually adjust the fuel maps, the FPR is just a one way valve that bleeds off boost pressure to the FPR and tries to reduce the amount of fuel the car receives to lean it out. Very rudimentary and was a band-aid that was invented at a time when there were no tuning options available for the MSP.
 
Me and 505 zoom had the 2 highest stock block. Dyno went with the car. See for anyone that has been here since the beginning has heard of something called a Joe p fpr. It was a fuel pressure reducer for a stock car which I ran until the ssafc was available. Most think the hesitation is too little fuel so they add!(BOOM). And to those of you who think this turbo blows hot air at over 15lbs of boost I would recommend you learn to read a compressor map. Also good products help and like I've said before I ran an ion fmic which is about as rare as a unicorn or mam tubular header.

I haven't been around since the beginning but I have had my MSP since 2010 and I can't say I have ever heard of anyone attempting to add fuel to an MSP until they were running well over 15psi. It's well known (at least in my opinion) that the hesitation from the stock tune is caused by an overly rich condition, running a wideband when my car was stock made that clear when the car would dip into 9.x:1 AFRs. The efficiency range of the T25 does run out above 16psi, not saying it won't make any more power but it isn't going to do a whole lot once it is out of it's efficiency range.
 
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