Power Steering Oil Change

igknighted

Member
:
Mazda 5 2008
Hi Guys:

Do you recommend to have power steering fluid changed or flushed? I have Mazda 5 2008, with 85K. Dealrship quoted me $125 + tax for power steering fluid change and 200 + tax for transmission fluid. I know for transmission, I need to take it to mechanic but power steering looks simple enough for DIY.

Any suggestions, also what would be best for Mazda 5 2008 Power steering fluid. Their owner manual doesn't mention a specific brand or grade

thanks
 
Trannny fluid is super easy, like doing oil change.
Power steering I did at the shop.
 
Power Steering uses Mercon V (yes, the ATF fluid but not for this car).

Google and even youtube has some how-tos for the Mazda3. Just as easy as ATF flush (same concept). It is unofficially recommended to be done every 40K as preventative maintenance. I'm at 80K (I've move away from preventative to if it ain't or almost broke...) and plan to do it with Ford Motorcraft Mercon V this weekend.
 
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For me at least, the easiest way to DIY this is to simply get an aquarium hand pump like this:

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from the dollar store or similar place (costs me $2 from the local dollar store), and manually siphon out the PS fluid from the PS reservoir in the engine bay. I just siphon the current stuff out from the PS reservoir, top it off with fresh fluid, turn the car on to let the PS fluid circulate a bit, turn the car off, and go through an extra round or two as you see fit. It doesn't change out all the fluid in one go. But the costs are dirt cheap, and it is very easy to do.

If you can't find an aquarium hand pump, a turkey baster might also work, but it'll take a lot longer.
 
Very easy to do. Some tips.

When removing the power steering hose, (need to unclip first) use a long screwdriver, stick, whatever and use the engine block in the back as leverage to slide the hose off. Once it moves a little, it'll come off easily. Hose slips back on super easy bc you will get fluid on it once you break the connection (acts as lubricant).
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I'm not sure why all of the how-tos suggest siphoning fluid out of the reservoir first.. Once you loosen the hose, all fluid from thr resevio drains straight out; what you pour in comes right out. It also doesn't hold more than a few ounces. The hard line is where the old fluid will come out when you work the pump by steering left and right. Try not to drain too much of it out and turing full lock. That may over exert the pump with no fluid in it. Then again, having the front axle off the ground with wheels off takes the load off. Try to contain how much you drain out. One bottle is enough (I did about 4/5 of a bottle). If possible, try to get some vinyl tubing to slip on the hard line, guessing around .5 inch. My spare hose did not fit so I had to improvise: turkey baster into spare hose into bottle.
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You did it the correct way, Silent. The problem with trying to just take the fluid out of the small reservoir on top is that most of the fluid is actually located in the top of the electric pump and not in the visible reservoir. Fluid doesn't really flow through that reservoir. Due to the design it is very hard to replace a majority of the fluid from the small top reservoir. Most shops use a flushing machine that tries to replace it through the top. On a conventional power steering set up that works fine but not on the 3's and 5's. The only way to truly exchange the fluid is how you did it.
 
For me at least, the easiest way to DIY this is to simply get an aquarium hand pump like this:

20100324103547506.jpg


from the dollar store or similar place (costs me $2 from the local dollar store), and manually siphon out the PS fluid from the PS reservoir in the engine bay. I just siphon the current stuff out from the PS reservoir, top it off with fresh fluid, turn the car on to let the PS fluid circulate a bit, turn the car off, and go through an extra round or two as you see fit. It doesn't change out all the fluid in one go. But the costs are dirt cheap, and it is very easy to do.

If you can't find an aquarium hand pump, a turkey baster might also work, but it'll take a lot longer.

Will the aquarium hand pump reach the reservoir through the bends?
I guess the aquarium hand pump tube needs to contact the surface of the oil to suck it out?
Unless the aquarium hand pump tube is narrow and flexible, it would be harder?
Any advice or product links?
 
Very easy to do. Some tips.

...
One bottle is enough (I did about 4/5 of a bottle). If possible, try to get some vinyl tubing to slip on the hard line, guessing around .5 inch. My spare hose did not fit so I had to improvise: turkey baster into spare hose into bottle.
For me at least, the easiest way to DIY this is to simply get an aquarium hand pump like this:

----.

I removed the the small reservoir on top along with the L-shaped hose.
Then pushed an "air hose" (from parts store) with a syringe attached into the reservoir.
I only removed about 250ml of fluid.
The car has 95k - had the car for 1 yr. It prob the original oil and it is black.

I didn't want to jack up and remove more because worried about air getting trapped and damaging expensive parts.
It looks like at least 3 more tries to get the rest out - I would be driving it in between.

@Traum didn't illustrate siphoning out the fluid.
Syringe wasn't hard - but having to do this 3-5 more times is a pain - but it was easy.

I like doing clean job but these places are asking a lot of money - perhaps there aren't that many Mazdas compared to Hondas.

After filling it with fresh fluid, I turned the steering fully both sides - the fresh fluid is still visible on the top reservoir. It look like the capacity is about 750ml from @Silentnoise713's post.
Having to deal with the blackish oil is the worry - my method would have been ideal if the oil wasn't turned blackish already.

Any recommendations?
 
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I did my 2nd round and it took longer due to more cleanup. This time the black oil took longer to drip out of the syringe!
I replaced approx half quart. 1qt=946ml - have about 500ml still remaining in the bottle.

I believe the last change cleaned up the system and more black deposits on the top small reservoir - which deserved some manual cleaning.

Having seen the black stuff, I am wondering it justifies taking it to a shop?
 
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Power Steering uses Mercon V (yes, the ATF fluid but not for this car).

Google and even youtube has some how-tos for the Mazda3. Just as easy as ATF flush (same concept). It is unofficially recommended to be done every 40K as preventative maintenance. I'm at 80K (I've move away from preventative to if it ain't or almost broke...) and plan to do it with Ford Motorcraft Mercon V this weekend.

Having tried to suck fluid and replace, I find more dirt is coming out as the new fluid get into action. Roughly 50% oil is changed - see post. Car has 100k - it is black.
I called around for price:
- dealer likely $130+tax; Likely they get the color right - might do twice to get the color
- independent shop1 $120 + tax; To get the color right.
- independent shop2 $73 + tax; (AC Delco Synthetic oil) Just one change - color might still be off

Which one should I go to?
 
Seems you've been at this for a little while. I would suggest getting it done once and for all and not have to think about it for a while. If you are seeing dirt/contaimants that's a diffrent -greater concern.

If you can do oil changes, you can DIY. It is not difficult and there are Mazda3 YouTube videos that'll guide you.

If you want a shop to do it, I'd suggest calling first and ask them to clearly explain how they will do the procedure. See post #6 to make sure they actually get the fluid out of the steering rack, not just exchange the reserve fluid in the reservoir (watch them if you have too). Go to the cheapest place. FWIW, jobs like these are not likely done my master techs. It'll be done by a low level service guy anyway.
 
Power Steering uses Mercon V (yes, the ATF fluid but not for this car).

Google and even youtube has some how-tos for the Mazda3. Just as easy as ATF flush (same concept). It is unofficially recommended to be done every 40K as preventative maintenance. I'm at 80K (I've move away from preventative to if it ain't or almost broke...) and plan to do it with Ford Motorcraft Mercon V this weekend.

um, im at 240k lol maybe i should change it
 
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