Tail and dash lights still don't work after new relay and fuses.

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pcb

The Diagram Dude

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2002 MP5

• Dec 23, 2014

• #21

Do the wire straight from the battery to the top of the fuse first to make sure that your lights will turn on. (your "bad connection" may be some where else)

Then (if the lights work),.. I would take an in-line fuse & holder (15 amp) and wire it straight off the battery,... then to a switch somewhere inside your car,.. then to that exact input in the fuse box and plug it in (remove the fuse,... the circuit is already fused)

I would hesitate to run it off the fog light switch because you could run too much power though that circuit,... (make a completely separate fused circuit)

You can get any simple switch somewhere or go back to the junker and get a second fog lamp switch to run them,.. that would fit in sleek.

 

Last edited: Dec 23, 2014

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pcb

The Diagram Dude

:

2002 MP5

• Dec 23, 2014

• #22

BrockWalls said:

,... because my fogs basically point at the ground.

Click to expand...

If you don't care about your fog lights then just disconnect them and use that switch (cut the wires off and re-wire to the "running lights")

 

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pcb

The Diagram Dude

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2002 MP5

• Dec 23, 2014

• #23

Get something like this to attach to the battery...

 

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Balls

MartyBalls

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03 Protege5

• Dec 24, 2014

• #24

pcb said:

Did your headlights and fog lights work normally before you rewired to the lightswitch ??

Click to expand...

Yeah, it was just the parking lights (running lights if thats what you crazy canucks call them) that weren't working.

 

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pcb

The Diagram Dude

:

2002 MP5

• Dec 25, 2014

• #25

I guess I wasn't using the words "running lights" properly.

 

Last edited: Dec 25, 2014

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BrockWalls

Member

:

Focus SE 1L

• Jan 14, 2015

• #26

So a bit of an update; I've been away for a while so I haven't had time to wire it up (and it's cold as hell right now) but I've noticed all the problematic lights flash as per usual when I lock and a unlock my car with the remote, leading me to believe that the problem is in the steering column.

Have you got a diagram for the headlight stock? Or could I again just bypass the switch in the stock by wiring from the fuse box directly to the battery?

 

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pcb

The Diagram Dude

:

2002 MP5

• Jan 14, 2015

• #27

There is a lot of diagrams missing from the manual because it ties in to the security system.

However I'm almost positive that when you pull that fuse you disable that circuit then you can "bypass" the circuit with a with that jumper wire.

Try pulling the fuse and test the remote,.. I'm thinking they shouldn't work,... Then you can bypass with a jumper to the battery.

 

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BrockWalls

Member

:

Focus SE 1L

• Jan 21, 2015

• #28

Update #2, it all works after testing but now I've run in to a problem (a really nitpicky one, but a problem nonetheless).

I could wire it to a simple "on/off" switch, but that'd be too easy and look a little ugly. I've bought another fog light switch, and the damn thing's got 4 wires going to it!

I looked through the wiring diagram, and it didn't say what wire did what (I know at least two go to the relay that stops the fogs from coming on with the high-beams or the daytime lights) and I haven't got a multimeter so I can't really check. Trial and error it is.

Uggggh.

 

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pcb

The Diagram Dude

:

2002 MP5

• Jan 21, 2015

• #29

BrockWalls said:

,...and I haven't got a multimeter so I can't really check. Trial and error it is.

Click to expand...

You really should get a multimeter. Canadian Tire has a 3 piece multimeter kit on sale this week for ten bucks (till Jan. 22nd)

The trial and error method could end up blowing fuses. (at least one of the wires going to the switch is ground to complete the circuit for the bulb in the switch)