Motor mounts..to do or not to do?

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davemsc

Member
:
mazda protege5
Hey all,

Bought a used P5 (200,000km) manual. Looking at the visible motor mounts, and given the play in the stick on acceleartion etc, I'd say most if not all or torn.

So a couple of questions....

1. If they are all shot, other than play in the setup and perhaps decreased driving fun due to slop, is there any real safety reason to fix them?
2. No way I could do this on my own, so how mlong would this take to do (maybe just the 3 that are easier to do (not the rear one)? Would this be something I have to go to Mazda to get done?
3. What kind should I buy? I was just on ROCKAUTO and they have DEA mounts? Sound right?

Thanks for the input
dave
 
The mounts are easy to replace if you have a clue how to work on your car. All you need is a jack, jack stands and a 1/2 socket wrench with 14 and 17mm sockets. Rear isn't as bad as everyone says but everyone's abilities are different. Cheap aftermarket mounts will make the inside of the car shake as they are made with hard, cheap rubber. OEM mounts are definitely the way to go.
 
Not a safety issue, but it will take care of that annoying wheel hop in the rain...

Car 'launches' better too.

Do all mounts at the same time.
 
If you want to be just a little cheap - do OEM rear and then aftermarket for the rest. Passenger side is probably the easiest to do and costs some $250 OEM and only ~$40 aftermarket..
 
There's no reason you can't do them yourself. Bad mounts could cause the exhaust to fatigue. Really bad mounts could cause severe damage, but that doesn't sound like your case. As long as the engine isn't flopping around to the point that it clunks, bad mounts won't hurt anything.

When I first bought my car I saw that the upper engine mount was bad. After seeing the prices, I thought "hell no", and that was 100,000 miles ago. Maybe prices have gone down since? Can't you buy inserts instead of the entire overpriced mount?

PS - don't ever go to a dealership outside of warranty work. I'd be surprised if you walked out of there with anything less than a $700 bill for all the engine and trans mounts.
 
i have not noticed any more vibration with aftermarket mounts than oem they both seem exactly, if not close to the same on that level
 
filled oems work fine. the only one id absolutely advise replacing is the front or rear. front is much easier and doesnt vibrate the windshield nearly as bad. the side mounts could still be good, so just pull them out and fill em with some silicon in a tube. poor mans inserts heh.
actually worked really well for me in this car heh.
 
thanks for the responses.

Unfortunately, I am not very car saavy and even replacing the easiest one would probably be way beyond my ability unsupervised lol.

As for the engine clunking with really bad mounts, I don't think it does, but there sure is a lot of movement in the gear shift on acceleration and downshifts etc...The funny thing is the guy I bought it from said he had the mounts done not too long ago. That was either a lie or he ripped them pretty quick.

My gf wants to learn how to drive the car but I am leery about teaching her to drive a manual on a car with worn mounts! Can anyone back me up on this so I can tell her it's not just me not wanting her to drive my car but there is an actual chance she could cause more damage lol
 
like if I was in 3rd and then gave it a good amount of gas, the shifter would move. If I suddenly let off the gas, the shifter would move and almsot bounce until it settled down (almost like a vibration forward and back until it stops). MAke sense?
 
I just replaced my motor mounts from Rock auto on thanksgiving. If i were to do it again i would buy an OEM passenger side mount. The one i bought from rock auto was good build i think i got the anchor brrand, but there is a piece that didnt come with it. You have to physically remove it which took me about 45 minutes of heating it up and hammering it. I did save like $70 with doing the rock auto one but if i would have known that it wasnt the same i would have just gone oem. I didnt find this video until I had already removed it. It'll explain what im talking about in the email better than trying to write it out.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCbtluiDZxQ
 
I have personally installed aftermarket mounts into both 626s and proteges and I can guarantee the mounts will shake like crazy until they break in and even after they are broken in they are not as smooth as OEM. This may not matter if you would rather save the money, personally I have full solid mounts that shake ridiculously.
 
So what if I replace all but the rear mount. How long would that take for a mechanic? Ball park....

Thanks,
 
anchor makes duralast and oriellys brand motor mounts as well. anchor mounts are good from my experience with them no matter name over top on box. my rear one was shot at 140,000 miles and i had to replace i did front at same time, sides were just fine though
 
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