The first 6 months in my P5

fortworthmatt

Member
:
Mazda Protege 5
Six months ago I had to go back to work in the office after working at home for 5 years and picked up a 2003 P5 with 133k. It was in decent shaped and the owners had all the records for the time they owned the car which is why I bought it. I could tell by the test drive that the wheel bearings were bad but it was clean overall so I bought it for $3k. I wanted a 5sp but I drive in traffic so I settled for the auto and dont regret it, too much anyway.

So when I got the car home I found out that it needed brakes all the way around and the rear bearings were shot. I bought the cross drilled and slotted rotors and cermaic pads at rock auto for $200 and new rear hubs. That was a pretty easy job and I paintd the calipers red beacuase why not. I also changed the spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, throttle body, air filter, etc. I also compounded, polished, and waxed the car as it is silver and had lots of oxidation. Looks much better now but the rear spoiler was too far gone so it still looks , well oxidized. The car runs great and I really like the way it handles and has plenty of power for passing and driving in 70 mph traffic. I have been avaeraging 27-28 mpg in mixed driving or a little less when I beat on it.

When my headlight went out I found out that my headlight clips were gone so I bought some off this sight from a member. So far I have not been able to get them in. I dont know if I need to remove the headlight but I just cant seem to fanagle them in there in the room availble so they are just held in by the boots. Then my ac compressor bearing went out and my mechanic charged me $900 to replace the compressor and rebuild the system which I think I got in the rear on that one. I told him to just buy the compressor off rock auto for $350 but he bought one from Mazda for some reason which was much more but whatever, dont know if I'll use him again.

I recently replaced the front struts with the cheapo $90 each whole strut assembly from rock auto and when I took the car to get aligned the shop advised me that they would have to enlongate the bolt holes to get the correct alignment, which I have not have them do yet. They advised $120 for the job. I guess I will get it done soon as it pulls to the right and I dont want to wear out my tires.

So thats my last 6 months. I really like the car overall and love the usefullness of the 4 door hatchback. If it wasnt for that ac compressor I would be in the car for pretty good money but now I am going to lose a grand when I sell it but thats how it goes with used cars. I will probably keep it another 6 months or so but I am a used car junkie and tend to get a different car every year or so. This forum has been immensely useful in all the DIY work I have done to the car so thanks for all your help guys!!
 
Tough luck man. My car has 228K and I havent had any major problems yet. I just changed out my struts earlier this year thinking that would fix my alignment issue but it didnt. I tested to see if my suspension parts were good by lifting up my car and the tire didnt move but i changed it out anyway. My suspension pieces had cracks in the rubber so thought it wouldn't hurt if that fixed the issue. I changed out the tie rod, stabilizer links, and lower control arms. I forgot to buy the strut mounts so i havent taken it in yet but i feel the difference now. Once i took the parts off i realized how worn out all those parts really were. It cost me like $300 to do all that plus i bought some motor mounts off rock auto. You can always search for a 5% discount code online.
 
I am assuming your car isnt lowered based on you buying pre assembled struts. that being said do the new struts have a small dab of paint or a marker on the top of the strut mount? the originals should have had a mark and i seem to recall when i did mine that the mark is important for an alignment. perhaps someone else can chime in here and correct me if i am wrong but if that mark is off so will your alignment. just something to check before they hack into your car. also was the car ever in an accident? that could cause the issue also.
 
I am assuming your car isnt lowered based on you buying pre assembled struts. that being said do the new struts have a small dab of paint or a marker on the top of the strut mount? the originals should have had a mark and i seem to recall when i did mine that the mark is important for an alignment. perhaps someone else can chime in here and correct me if i am wrong but if that mark is off so will your alignment. just something to check before they hack into your car. also was the car ever in an accident? that could cause the issue also.

I didnt see any marks and the assembly would only go in one way. The alignment was fine before and just as soon as I put in the new assemblies the wheel was cocked a little. Don't see any signs of previous damage. Now I say that they only go in one way due to the position of the bottom bolts lining up with the bottom of the assembly. I didnt try to move anything. I did replace the strut end links as I had to cut them off.
 
i am refering to the top mount. if you open the hood and look at where the strut mounts to the fender you will see the 4 bolts and there should be a dab of paint or a marker near one of the bolts. i think but not certain mine are pointing to the left side bolts closer to windshield. i believe i read somewhere if that paint spot doesnt match the original itll throw off your alignment. hope this helps
 
The nut in the middle of the top of the strut is not dead center. If you look close, you can see.

casterangle_zpsb074d82a.jpg
 
The oem indicators are pink dots. As shown in the diagram above, they should face back of car and both be towards outside of car on both sides or it will have the effect listed above on the alignment. Not sure what indicator an aftermarket complete strut assembly might have but it should have something. Read the instructions or google them and find out online.
 
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I emailed RockAuto to confirm, and there is no markings on these assemblies. So I would not recommend buying them. I guess you get what you pay for but I though at least I would be able to get the alignment done correctly without having to alter the original part.

FCS 1333322R and FCS1333322L
 
I guess I am going to remove the stut assemblies again turn them and hope for the best since there are no markings. I am now getting a loud clunking sound from them.
 
Maybe get a compass set from a dollar store.

You can set it in the middle of the top bolt and spin it to help orient the "wobble".

Maybe yours are dead center and nonadjustable ??
 
Well I never heard back form the manufacturer. I found my problem was the tires. They were worn on the inside edge and making the car pull to the right. I bought new tire as I needed them anyway and now she tracks straight! The clunking sound was from the sway bar end links I put in. I did not tighten them correctly or over tightened them according to the mechanic. New tires make such a differnce and I so glad to get rif of those Khumo Ecsta tires.
 
Well I never heard back form the manufacturer. I found my problem was the tires. They were worn on the inside edge and making the car pull to the right. I bought new tire as I needed them anyway and now she tracks straight! The clunking sound was from the sway bar end links I put in. I did not tighten them correctly or over tightened them according to the mechanic. New tires make such a differnce and I so glad to get rif of those Khumo Ecsta tires.

where in fort worth are you? i live in benbrook a suburb just on the west side of fort worth. what color is your p5? i see a red a yellow and a black one around alot im in a white one
 
Yeah, no more Kumhos for me. I can't believe I bought two sets of them; the second set had tread separation just like the first, on the inside of the tire where it couldn't be seen easily. I'm on Yokohama Avid Ascends now, and they're great for Dallas climate.


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kms1990 I am in north Fort Worth near alliance airport. My car is silver. I dont get down to your area very often. I must say I really like these new Falken Pro4 GS tires. They are not as sporty as some might want but I mainly drive on the highway back and forth to work 60 miles a day so I am fine with that. The ride is so much better it is like a different car.
 
kms1990 I am in north Fort Worth near alliance airport. My car is silver. I dont get down to your area very often. I must say I really like these new Falken Pro4 GS tires. They are not as sporty as some might want but I mainly drive on the highway back and forth to work 60 miles a day so I am fine with that. The ride is so much better it is like a different car.

o cool i think i have seen you up there i was over that way a few weeks ago and saw a silver one i bet it was you. i bought Continental ControlContact Sport AS just recently and theyre great id say they ride and handle just as well as the michelin pilot sport a/s 3s that were on there before my yokohama yk580s(horrible in rain, so bad i bought the continentals after just a year on the yokos) and they do not sell the pilot sports in sizes that fit our cars anymore (i wanted them but all they have now in those sizes is touring, not sport i like sport tires better)
 
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