First Mazda

If you want a better ride quality lose the 18s. Protgs use a 5x114.3 so you can use Honda/acura wheels if you have some friends with them. You need a higher offset for 17s as in +40-50 would be ideal. 215-45-17 do pretty well but may rub in the rear depending on how much you're lowered

So Bolt Pattern is 5x114.3 but what is stock rim size and offset, also what is stock tire size?

Pretty much everything is interchangeable between the protege 5 and the sedan. Even all the speed stuff including turbo kit will bolt right on
What years are we talking here? And since im not familiar with the mazda terms yet, what model does 'sedan' refer to?

Also head bolts are torque to yield which means they have to be replaced after every use. If you like it and want to keep it get arp studs which are reusable

Is this the correct part? The listing says up to 02, but my P5 is an 03, same motor?

Drinking that much oil it's going to need a full rebuild, bored, machine work etc. if you do everything yourself except machine work it would cost 1,000-1,500 but you would have a brand new motor. Price depends on if you want to throw goodies in

You're looking at , main and rod bearings, pistons, piston rings, head gasket, head bolts, valve seals, valve cover, other misc gaskets, timing belt/ water pump. Etc for shortish list. Granted you don't need everything but the motor is opened up and disassembled may as well do it while your there or do it later

So far I have all new motor mounts, timing belt and water pump kit, DNJ master rebuild kit which includes - rod and main bearings, rings and pistons, freeze plugs, thrust washers, and engine gasket kit- full upper and lower set. These parts come out to $500 with shipping/tax. I think a mazda specific rebuild manual would be nice but i dont know if they are produced. Anything else besides the ARP studs? Should I add an oil pump on for another $80-90?
 
1 stock rim size is 16"x6.5? Not sure of offset but it's around +50 iirc

2 all 3rd gen protgs are the same ( 99-03) 3 body styles 99-00 sedan pre face lift 01-03 sedan and then the protege 5 wagon 99-00 had 1.6 or 1.8 engine. 01-03 had the 1.6 and 2.0, p5, MP3, and msp all got the 2.0. 1.6 was in base model sedan. A little searching will show all the changes made which were a lot, but everything was interchangeable

3 it will fit. They should even work with the early 90s 2.0 in the ford probes and 626's

4 do not use a cheap rebuild kit. Unless you don't plan on keeping the car. Spend the money and do it right. A lot of the time stuff like that is actually cheaper through the dealer especially when it comes to bearings piston rings etc. oil pump is worthless junk in these motors, there's a company that makes aftermarket ones, if you plan on driving the car hard at all I highly advise getting it
 
PCV is fine.

Wheel bearing took a sh!t on me today. Pulled hub off and the ball bearings fell out.
2nd one on that wheel in under 3k miles.
Something else is bent. Hub, knuckle or the ground down caliper bracket. PO's ex smashed a dirt embankment...
Strut is bad on this side as well.
The spline on the hub and axle look fine.

Any tips besides replace it all lol?
 
My oil consumption has gotten much worse. Im at about 1 qt of oil every 100miles or so...

I need to rebuild the engine and would like to do it over the winter break so that I can drive it to school and not mess with it next quarter.

do not use a cheap rebuild kit. Unless you don't plan on keeping the car. Spend the money and do it right. A lot of the time stuff like that is actually cheaper through the dealer especially when it comes to bearings piston rings etc. oil pump is worthless junk in these motors, there's a company that makes aftermarket ones, if you plan on driving the car hard at all I highly advise getting it

I checked out the local stealership and they got me some prices on parts. These arent the exact prices, but pretty close to them.
Gasket set $270
Rod bearings $140
Main Bearings $200
Rings and pistons $110 each ($440 total)
Head gasket with head $900 they wont sell me just the gasket for some reason.

For some reason, all these parts were much more expensive through the stealership.

I think im going to go with the basic kit from rock auto and a water pump/timing belt kit. I already bought the motor mount.
I need to car to last another 3years (60-65k miles) till I finish the current program im in, and then if it lasts longer thats just an extra bonus.

I still need to get new wheels as well... Been pretty busy lately and haven't had a chance to do much.
Thanks for the help
 
My oil consumption has gotten much worse. Im at about 1 qt of oil every 100miles or so...

I need to rebuild the engine and would like to do it over the winter break so that I can drive it to school and not mess with it next quarter.



I checked out the local stealership and they got me some prices on parts. These arent the exact prices, but pretty close to them.
Gasket set $270
Rod bearings $140
Main Bearings $200
Rings and pistons $110 each ($440 total)
Head gasket with head $900 they wont sell me just the gasket for some reason.

For some reason, all these parts were much more expensive through the stealership.

I think im going to go with the basic kit from rock auto and a water pump/timing belt kit. I already bought the motor mount.
I need to car to last another 3years (60-65k miles) till I finish the current program im in, and then if it lasts longer thats just an extra bonus.

I still need to get new wheels as well... Been pretty busy lately and haven't had a chance to do much.
Thanks for the help

Why don't you go with aftermarket parts? In fact for a little extra you can go with forged internals and that will be able to run a lot of boost in case you ever decide to add a turbo.

Check out rock auto for gaskets, unless you only believe in OEM. You can save quite a bit if you check rock auto. Gasket set alone is $111. Or you can get a master rebuild kit for just under $300, thats pistons, crank bearings, rings and gasket set.
 
Yes, Im almost positively going to go with rock auto parts.
I wont be boosting this car, or racing, or driving it hard. Just commuting at 65mph to 70mph.
I am not too much in to pavement, im more of an offroad guy, so this car is just a commuter to me. No crazy mods or stuff like that.

Thanks for the opinions on the parts, that's what I was looking for.
 
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