just bought a2002 p5

D

davemsc

Member
:
mazda protege5
Hey all

Just got my hands on a fairly good shape p5 5 speed with 200000km on it. I had one a while ago and loved it so I finally found another one... My gf just shakes her head lol

Anyway, is there any resin I should put high mileage oil in it? The guy I bought it from uses 5w30 synthetic (not high mileage) so in wondering if I should just keep it that way. He says there are no leaks.. No burning oil...

Also I believe he put royal purple 75w90 transmission fluid in it.. Doors that sounds OK?

Glad to be back in this form after many years away!

Cheers
Dave
 
i personally do not recommend high mileage oil, it has seal "conditioners" aka swellers in it to stop leaks if you start using it you do not wanna stop as it can cause leaks afterword in absence of those "conditioners" (it happened in my friends old truck he put in high mileage oil 1 oil change and did not the next with no leaks before but a decent one after)

if its not leaking dont force it to start if it is fix the problem and dont add to the problem. high mileage oil is just a patch up for people looking to get rid of old ford tempos and the such that were neglected and leak oil like a new oil well so they dont look as bad to the prospective buyers.

synthetic blend oils not labeled as high mileage are basically the same as high mileage without the high mileage conditioners.

i use castrol syntec 5w30 and it runs great in mine (155,000+ miles) no leaks and not burning a drop!
continue with synthetic there is a reason they cost more, they lubricate and clean/keep the engine clean better and can run for extended intervals (our manual says 5,000-7,500 for oil changes on conventional oil i split the difference and go at every 6,000 some here wont recommend it but its worked in this car and every car i have ever had without any oil related failures or issues.

use a good filter too, i recommend bosch, wix, k &n or mobil 1 i prefer bosch personally because they usually come with the castrol on special and 2 because they filter no different than the 2x as expensive mobil 1 filters (i have used both and notice no difference) oil goes in golden and comes out a little darker but still clean and not gritty just as it should
 
Last edited:
kms1990 said:
i personally do not recommend high mileage oil, it has seal "conditioners" aka swellers in it to stop leaks if you start using it you do not wanna stop as it can cause leaks afterword in absence of those "conditioners" (it happened in my friends old truck he put in high mileage oil 1 oil change and did not the next with no leaks before but a decent one after)

if its not leaking dont force it to start if it is fix the problem and dont add to the problem. high mileage oil is just a patch up for people looking to get rid of old ford tempos and the such that were neglected and leak oil like a new oil well so they dont look as bad to the prospective buyers.

synthetic blend oils not labeled as high mileage are basically the same as high mileage without the high mileage conditioners.

i use castrol syntec 5w30 and it runs great in mine (155,000+ miles) no leaks and not burning a drop!
continue with synthetic there is a reason they cost more, they lubricate and clean/keep the engine clean better and can run for extended intervals (our manual says 5,000-7,500 for oil changes on conventional oil i split the difference and go at every 6,000 some here wont recommend it but its worked in this car and every car i have ever had without any oil related failures or issues.

use a good filter too, i recommend bosch, wix, k &n or mobil 1 i prefer bosch personally because they usually come with the castrol on special and 2 because they filter no different than the 2x as expensive mobil 1 filters (i have used both and notice no difference) oil goes in golden and comes out a little darker but still clean and not gritty just as it should
Click to expand...

I guess that was my question though.....If I can't find out what synthetic 5w30 he used (either NON high mileage or high mileage), would it be ok to put normal synthetic in? I've read once high mileage oil goes in, you can't use NON high mileage. So if I don't know what synthetic he used, what would you recommend?

As for the filter, I usually use K&N but I bought a MOBIL1 extended performance. Should be ok.

So the royal purple manual trans fluid (75w90) should be fine for the manual? What is the recommended change interval for that? And would you doa flush or just a drain?

thanks:)

oh one more thing.....he was doing the MVI and they found a strut that needs replacing. He is only replacing that one. Shouldn't struts be replaced in pairs? If they do only replace that one, what trouble might happen with the suspension having one new and one old strut?
 
mobil1 = K&N with a different sticker

Yes, struts are replaced in pairs. If you really think about it, you will have a weird ride hight, un-even tire wear, pulling issues, etc.. But then again, my friend replaced only 1 and had no such problems, so it depends on how lucky you get.
 
Is it weird I am pretty friggin' excited to get my hands back on a 12 year old P5 lol as opposed to driving our new SUV?
 
use any synthetic brand you like i am a castrol fan boy but all of the name brands are just fine (pennzoil, castrol, mobil 1, valvoline, royal purple) 75w90 gear oil (any brand) is fine.

yes always replace struts in pairs (on a 12 year old car as such if you can afford it get all 4) and either kyb or tokio blues. he most likely did not use high mileage synthetic as there is only 1 or 2 out there labeled as such. any synthetic should be just fine.

check the coil packs (for damage to the rubber boots) and monitor for them failing, a common issue. check the radiator cap(hell for $10 just replace it) i would flush the coolant as well just to be sure it not too old.

200,000km is roughly equal to 125,000 miles do you know if the timing belt has been done? if not or you do not know i would do it or have it done and replace the water pump as well while your in there (water pump is under the timing cover and driven by the timing belt) so makes since to replace it. check the a/c charge as well be sure its within spec especially if your in a warm area.

check the suspension really well when you do the struts (ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings ect. as well as cv axle boots) for rips tears and looseness. replace as necessary
 
kms1990 said:
use any synthetic brand you like i am a castrol fan boy but all of the name brands are just fine (pennzoil, castrol, mobil 1, valvoline, royal purple) 75w90 gear oil (any brand) is fine.

yes always replace struts in pairs (on a 12 year old car as such if you can afford it get all 4) and either kyb or tokio blues. he most likely did not use high mileage synthetic as there is only 1 or 2 out there labeled as such. any synthetic should be just fine.

check the coil packs (for damage to the rubber boots) and monitor for them failing, a common issue. check the radiator cap(hell for $10 just replace it) i would flush the coolant as well just to be sure it not too old.

200,000km is roughly equal to 125,000 miles do you know if the timing belt has been done? if not or you do not know i would do it or have it done and replace the water pump as well while your in there (water pump is under the timing cover and driven by the timing belt) so makes since to replace it. check the a/c charge as well be sure its within spec especially if your in a warm area.

check the suspension really well when you do the struts (ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings ect. as well as cv axle boots) for rips tears and looseness. replace as necessary
Click to expand...

Timing belt was done about 120km or so he said and I beleive the water pump as well.

He bought it used but I know HE has never done anything with the clutch. It seems to drive fine (no slipping) but the pedal is fairly stiff. He said it was like that since he got his hands on it. He said the motor mounts have been done (didn't ask if all were).

It doesn't rattle over bumps and is fairly responsive. RPMS are where they should be (I owned one 5 years ago) and this is very similar...isn't overheating (temp gauge is where it should be..)

I'm hoping I can get a year or two out of it.

Also, i know stock tires are 195 50 16. Would 205 50 16 be any issue other than the speedo off a bit?
 
205 50 16s are fine i have those on mine and have had no noticeable issues with speedometer. if the pedal is stiff inspect the clutch the pedal is supposed to be shift (mine was stiff and i replaced the clutch and now it moves very free and easy to the floor)(responds quicker for easier shifting) at that mileage the clutch is probably worn most of the way down (clutches work like giant brake pads) mine started to be stiff at about same mileage (km for you) as your is at and i got another 25,000 miles out of it before it became too hard to shift it on the fly driving down the road. repalce now if you have the money to.
 
I forgot to ask about winter tires. What alternate size would work other than 195-50-16? i obviously don't want to go wider for winter.
Thanks,
Dave
 
i cannot answer you there i am in texas and if you know about it we stay warm year round and may get ice 1 time a year if even that much
 
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