Looking at Thicker Oil (15W40 Rotella) Alternatives

M

MazdaSpeeder

Member

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Protege5 (5-spd)

• Sep 29, 2014

• #1

Okay, so my P5 burns oil. I believe it has two issues: valve guide seals at startup (billowing blue smoke for 60 seconds or so on some starts) and wearing rings (oil smoke when I get on it, or when I engine brake and then get on it).

I've used 10W40 with little success, and I'm considering running 15W40 Shell Rotella. I know it is heavier than recommended, but I'm thinking it might solve some of my smoking startup problems. I also know it might reduce mileage (don't care) and maybe accelerate engine wear (that ship is already sinking). I know a few guys that have used it as a stopgap measure in other makes of car with some success. Plus, it doesn't hurt that a gallon is CHEAP.

Any thoughts or insight from guys that have run Rotella in their car?

 

L

lvevo

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Protege5, Lancer Evolution IX

• Sep 30, 2014

• #2

I know this doesn't help you, but I get smoke on start up, and I combat it by putting my car in drive(seems you have a manual) right away so the rpms drop enough to stop smoke. My pistons are dry after start up in the mornings so I know it has to be the rings in my case. After reading on BITOG forums, I think I'm going to give Auto RX a shot to see if it can clean my rings enough to lower or stop the smoking at start up.

As for the oil, in theory a 15w40 will be the same thickness as a 10w40 at operating temp. Only difference will be at start up. Maybe try a XXw50 oil instead.

 

M

Maroon

Member

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03 mazda protege 5

• Sep 30, 2014

• #3

I tried either 10W-40 or 15W-40 because I have the same issue. It did not seem to make any difference in oil consumption, and the engine did seem to be more sluggish. That worried me.

As for cheap oil, Wal Mart sells 5W-30 and 10W-30 for $12-13 per gallon.

And some people want to say there's nothing wrong with this engine. How many oil burning threads are on the first page?

 

X

x DeadTaco x

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2003 Mazda Protege5

• Sep 30, 2014

• #4

Maroon said:

I tried either 10W-40 or 15W-40 because I have the same issue. It did not seem to make any difference in oil consumption, and the engine did seem to be more sluggish. That worried me.

As for cheap oil, Wal Mart sells 5W-30 and 10W-30 for $12-13 per gallon.

And some people want to say there's nothing wrong with this engine. How many oil burning threads are on the first page?

Click to expand...

Many people, including me, have no issues with burning oil with these motors. But some will have issues while others will not, its how it always is.

Either that or its just an interesting coincidence haha

 

K

kms1990

Member

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2011 mazda 3 hatchback GT

• Sep 30, 2014

• #5

put some lucas oil treatment in it can help keep the enigine from smoking on start up and may help some with the burning, 15w 40 maybe a little too thick for the protege and the pump may not like it.

 

M

MazdaSpeeder

Member

:

Protege5 (5-spd)

• Sep 30, 2014

• #6

10w40 is the EDM (European) recommendation for oil in the P5, so I'm not concerned about the 40 weight when hot. It's the 15w that I'm after to try and reduce startup smoke. Anyone have an experience with that?

As for "oil treatments" they really just do two things: 1) thicken the oil, resulting in the same effect as a heavier oil or 2) remove deposits and sludge. #2 isn't going to help with burning oil, and may actually make things worse. I'm not super interested in either of those things.

 

C

codex

Member

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2016 Mazda3 Hatchback

• Sep 30, 2014

• #7

EDM does not have the FS 2.0, I believe they have a 1.5 and 1.6, different engine design.

 

M

MazdaSpeeder

Member

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Protege5 (5-spd)

• Sep 30, 2014

• #8

That info comes from Edwin "theMAN" and I'm pretty sure it's accurate, considering the source. Protegefaq.net backs it up.

 

Natey

Moderator

Contributor

Patron

• Sep 30, 2014

• #9

Rotary engines run a little hotter than most, so a lot of us put 20w-50 in in the summertime. If it gets icy where you are, I'd keep the 10-40 tho. Even in California winter, 20-50s a little sketchy.
Think of motor oil like maple syrup. The colder it gets the thicker it becomes. Thin stuff in the winter, and something thicker that coats better in the summer would be ideal. Also remember, with thicker oil comes higher oil pressure.

 

P

Preferio

I break stuff.

Contributor

:

2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6

• Sep 30, 2014

• #10

You're not going to be able to combat this with a heavier weight and higher viscosity engine oil... You just won't.

I run 15w40 in my MSP, but only do so because of notorious FSDE oil pressure issues. It's shown ~8psi difference over a 5w30.

Remember this simple idea: Oil will not replace worn internal components (eg metal)

Also, additives will sometimes have integrated into their formula, an agent that causes gasket and seal materials to become soft and swell. If you've got a damaged seal, this method will not work.

REALISTICALLY the only thing to do is to repair/replace worn components. A stop leak/stop smoke is a waste of money- in my own opinion.

 

P

Preferio

I break stuff.

Contributor

:

2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6

• Sep 30, 2014

• #11

Natey said:

Rotary engines run a little hotter than most, so a lot of us put 20w-50 in in the summertime.

Click to expand...

I ran a European shop for many years and the same goes for air-cooled Porsches and Volkswagens. Either 10w40 or 20w50. Generally speaking, we'd run 20w50 in all of the cars unless someone requested a 10w40.