High Mileage CX-5s - report in

Really makes you wonder what these dealers are doing when they are selling Skyactiv Transmission flushes.

When it was my due time to do the first tranny flush - I actually had some things to fix under warranty at the dealer's and inquired about their prices. Was quoted 300$CAD - which seemed pretty reasonable... until I found out that they weren't bothering with filter replacement. That's one costly drain and refill. Not counting all the gunk and metal shavings collected in the pan...

But yes - general wisdom says that if your tranny hasn't been touched by somebody who actually cares by 200K - don't touch it at all because fresh fluid will dislodge all that gunk and clog everything up. Unless you're ready to pay the price as I was suggesting in my previous post - do a number of flushes with short millages in between and she'll be just fine.
 
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I have about 63K mi on my CX-5. So far it only had one major issue: the high pressure fuel pump failed at around 51K and it was fixed under warranty. Though, not sure if it has always been there or not, when I rev the engine at idle, I can hear an electric motor sound that comes on when I rev past a certain RPM and it's frequency increases with RPMs. Just did the rear brakes where the left side wore down to about 2mm, but the right side had about 3-4mm. Odd that it would wear out like that. Lastly, I own a 6-speed manual and the shifter linkage has been squeaking for awhile now, most predominantly when I go from N to 1st, N to 2nd, between 1st and 2nd, or just going into R from any gear. I already removed the center console and shifter boot and lubed the big ball that the shifter pivots on to no avail.
 
I have about 63K mi on my CX-5. So far it only had one major issue: the high pressure fuel pump failed at around 51K and it was fixed under warranty. Though, not sure if it has always been there or not, when I rev the engine at idle, I can hear an electric motor sound that comes on when I rev past a certain RPM and it's frequency increases with RPMs. Just did the rear brakes where the left side wore down to about 2mm, but the right side had about 3-4mm. Odd that it would wear out like that. Lastly, I own a 6-speed manual and the shifter linkage has been squeaking for awhile now, most predominantly when I go from N to 1st, N to 2nd, between 1st and 2nd, or just going into R from any gear. I already removed the center console and shifter boot and lubed the big ball that the shifter pivots on to no avail.
Your rear brake condition with uneven wear on pads seems to be a typical symptom described in this EPB TSB - Noise from REAR BRAKE/Trace of Rear Brake Dragging. You may need a pair of revised rear calipers to fix the problem.
 
I've got 249,000k on and the vehicle started making a whining noise that gets louder and higher pitched with speed. Just took it in and they think it's tranny related. We'll see how it goes when I take it in to a transmission shop.
 
I've got 249,000k on and the vehicle started making a whining noise that gets louder and higher pitched with speed. Just took it in and they think it's tranny related. We'll see how it goes when I take it in to a transmission shop.

Unfortunate to hear at 150k miles.

Fortunately since so many Mazdas use these same engines & transmissions I'd look at used market to keep costs down. Not sure what repair/rebuild costs are but they usually are like $3-4K+

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
I've got 249,000k on and the vehicle started making a whining noise that gets louder and higher pitched with speed. Just took it in and they think it's tranny related. We'll see how it goes when I take it in to a transmission shop.

At the first sign of this, mine is getting traded. At 150K miles, the dealer's price is bottomed out as it's just an auction car. You can bring it in with worn tires or whatever. All it has to do is "cross the stage" under its own power basically.
 
I've got 249,000k on and the vehicle started making a whining noise that gets louder and higher pitched with speed. Just took it in and they think it's tranny related. We'll see how it goes when I take it in to a transmission shop.


Any update on this. Could possibly just be wheel bearings.
 
I've just hit 100k, have some work to do to bring her to my standards. walnut blasting, belts, and steering link ends soon to come
 
Update! Was definitely the transmission. Replaced with a used one with 30,000km on it so lucked out with an almost new one. Totak ended up being about $3800CDN for parts and labor. Vehicle feels practically new again. Drives smooth and quiet and very responsive.
 
blaznivy, how often was your original transmission serviced and did it include a filter change? Thanks, Jmaz
 
195,000 miles- no transmission issues yet...

Replaced both non-drive side wheel bearings as they had become deafeningly loud. Drive side bearings are good still... oddly.
Replaced the switch unit this afternoon because I couldn't get my accessories to turn off after 30 minutes of wiggling the shifter and taking the console apart. I forgot to plug in some wires that attach to the shifter bezel... what does that plug even do? Is it just the power supply to a light that shows me what gear I'm in at night? That would be nice... but there's no light down there plug-plugged-in or no plug so I may have a burned out bulb. Stupid burned out light...
 
195,000 miles- no transmission issues yet...

Replaced both non-drive side wheel bearings as they had become deafeningly loud. Drive side bearings are good still... oddly.
Replaced the switch unit this afternoon because I couldn't get my accessories to turn off after 30 minutes of wiggling the shifter and taking the console apart. I forgot to plug in some wires that attach to the shifter bezel... what does that plug even do? Is it just the power supply to a light that shows me what gear I'm in at night? That would be nice... but there's no light down there plug-plugged-in or no plug so I may have a burned out bulb. Stupid burned out light...

You may be talking about the switch that tells the computer it is in park and lets it shut down instead of going into ACC mode when you press the start button like it is still in gear and will not turn completely off. Several others have indicated a failure of that switch and difficulty getting it to go to off vs ACC.
 
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