High Mileage CX-5s - report in

If you havent changed the ATF since new, if I were you I may have some hesitation to change (drain-and-fill) the ATF. If I decided to do it, I may consider taking the ATF pan down to replace the ATF filter cartridge inside.

For serpentine belt and water pump belt replacement, you may want to replace the tensioner even if its not leaking.

You need 2 quarts of Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1 as in addition to 0.45 quarts for front transfer case, the rear differential needs ~0.8 quarts instead of 0.45 quarts specified in owners manual.

Thanks for the response.

I tried to ask the dealer about the ATF change and have the cartridge change as well. It would cost around 500+... man that is expensive. It was never changed since new.

For the belts. serpentine is around 44 and water pump belt is 20. but the labor of each is around 130.

Prices are in Canadian dollars.

Wondering if the oil change for the transfer and differential can be DYI.
 
Thanks for the response.

I tried to ask the dealer about the ATF change and have the cartridge change as well. It would cost around 500+... man that is expensive. It was never changed since new.

For the belts. serpentine is around 44 and water pump belt is 20. but the labor of each is around 130.

Prices are in Canadian dollars.

Wondering if the oil change for the transfer and differential can be DYI.
I thought your 2013 CX-5 GT has 110K miles, but it could be 110K km (68,351 miles) since youre in Canada. If your CX-5 indeed has 68K+ miles, IMO you should do the ATF drain-and-fill without ATF filter cartridge change at this time. At 68K, belt change may be a bit too early depending on the belt condition. Belt tensioner is an item easy to leak, make sure to check or replace that.

If you change your oil by yourself, I believe you can do most of the fluid changes by yourself too with proper tools and good write-up found in this forum. ATF drain-and-fill should be the more difficult one because of the tight space to check the ATF level and ATF temperature needs to be known. Here are a couple of good write-ups for those fluid changes:

Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change: tools parts and links

ATF Drain/Fill
 
Just hit 100K on our 2014 Touring. Replaced all 4 brake pads and rotors a couple months ago. Still need to do a trans drain and refill 3x. Haven't even looked at belts, should I be?

The tires I put on at around 54K are wearing down already. Probably only get another 10K out of them. Will definitely be looking at lighter weight tires this next time around.
 
My serpentine belt on my 2013 looked a little worse for wear with less than 70k miles. Id replace that on your 2014. It was easy to do by removing the passenger wheel as well as the shroud within that wheel well.

The water pump belt was harder to replace but I found a nice zip tie trick. Do you have a 2 or 2.5 liter? I think only the 2.0 had a separate water pump belt. I can track down the pic of my zip tie trick if its something youre going to do on your own.
 
Just hit 100K on our 2014 Touring. Replaced all 4 brake pads and rotors a couple months ago. Still need to do a trans drain and refill 3x. Haven't even looked at belts, should I be?

The tires I put on at around 54K are wearing down already. Probably only get another 10K out of them. Will definitely be looking at lighter weight tires this next time around.
Yeah you definitely want to check your serpentine belt, and the tensioner. The second water pump belt usually lasts longer.

Id do the ATF drain-and-fill and filter cartridge replacement (definitely put the new one on the last if you do 3X) ASAP at 100K miles.

What kind of tires do you have which last about 46K miles?
 
My serpentine belt on my 2013 looked a little worse for wear with less than 70k miles. Id replace that on your 2014. It was easy to do by removing the passenger wheel as well as the shroud within that wheel well.

The water pump belt was harder to replace but I found a nice zip tie trick. Do you have a 2 or 2.5 liter? I think only the 2.0 had a separate water pump belt. I can track down the pic of my zip tie trick if its something youre going to do on your own.
2.5L has the second water pump belt too, and a balance shaft which is not needed on 2.0L.

Didnt know we need to remove the RF wheel and shroud for belt replacement. Yes Id like to know the zip-tie trick for water pump belt without using a stretch belt removing tool.
 
My serpentine belt on my 2013 looked a little worse for wear with less than 70k miles. Id replace that on your 2014. It was easy to do by removing the passenger wheel as well as the shroud within that wheel well.

The water pump belt was harder to replace but I found a nice zip tie trick. Do you have a 2 or 2.5 liter? I think only the 2.0 had a separate water pump belt. I can track down the pic of my zip tie trick if its something youre going to do on your own.

I see some very minimal cracks on the belt when I looked at it. Right now i am just tying to prioritized things to replace because of the expense.

I have a 2 liter. Would really appreciate if you share the pic.
 
Found it. Forgot I created a separate thread for it. Its the first image attached to my post: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123868710-Water-pump-stretch-belt-zip-ties-FTW

Having the wheel and shroud off was pretty much a necessity for the water pump belt. Need to turn the crank to get it on the pulley. It made the routing the serpentine belt so much easier. Theres not a whole lot of room to do that from above.
Nice write-up and would save me some cash getting a useless stretch belt installation tool for the water pump belt replacement.

Chris_Top_Her should move your write-up to How-To section.
 
There is a filter for the transmission located within it. To replace it would require dropping the pan, popping out the old cartridge, installing a new cartridge, and reinstalling the pan. You have to apply a silicone gasket to the pan to reinstall.

Its not called for in the owners manual nor is replacing the transmission fluid. Ive done the transmission fluid but still not sure if Ill bother with the filter. Its probably more of a boulder catcher type material than a fine filter. Id be more interested in cleaning any sludge that might be present on the magnet in the pan, but of course that requires dropping the pan. Might as well replace the filter if youve dropped the pan I suppose lol.
 
There is a filter for the transmission located within it. To replace it would require dropping the pan, popping out the old cartridge, installing a new cartridge, and reinstalling the pan. You have to apply a silicone gasket to the pan to reinstall.

Its not called for in the owners manual nor is replacing the transmission fluid. Ive done the transmission fluid but still not sure if Ill bother with the filter. Its probably more of a boulder catcher type material than a fine filter. Id be more interested in cleaning any sludge that might be present on the magnet in the pan, but of course that requires dropping the pan. Might as well replace the filter if youve dropped the pan I suppose lol.
+1
 
Yeah you definitely want to check your serpentine belt, and the tensioner. The second water pump belt usually lasts longer.

I*d do the ATF drain-and-fill and filter cartridge replacement (definitely put the new one on the last if you do 3X) ASAP at 100K miles.

What kind of tires do you have which last about 46K miles?

Sumitomo HTR Enhance in stock 17" size. They're okay. I didn't realize until after buying them that they're much heavier than some of the other options out there.
 
Sumitomo HTR Enhance in stock 17" size. They're okay. I didn't realize until after buying them that they're much heavier than some of the other options out there.
Sumitomo HTR Enhance LX2 225/65R17 102H is 28 lbs which is average on weight like most others to me. UTQG 700 A A but lasts only 46K miles which is a little surprise to me though.
 
I never said they only last 46K miles. I have 46K on the tires currently, with probably 4/32 tread left. So I might get 55K out of them, maybe 60K if we're lucky. Either way we'll be getting new tires this next year.

Probably go with the General Altimax RT43 H-rated this time around. Should save 15 to 16 pounds of unsprung weight. And DTD and TireRack are both the exact same price with free shipping, but I'll probably check with the local Discount Tire store, since they have the Hunter road-force balancing machine.
 
I never said they only last 46K miles. I have 46K on the tires currently, with probably 4/32 tread left. So I might get 55K out of them, maybe 60K if we're lucky. Either way we'll be getting new tires this next year.

Probably go with the General Altimax RT43 H-rated this time around. Should save 15 to 16 pounds of unsprung weight. And DTD and TireRack are both the exact same price with free shipping, but I'll probably check with the local Discount Tire store, since they have the Hunter road-force balancing machine.

Not to mention free tire rotations/balance and repairs.
 
Not to mention free tire rotations/balance and repairs.
I like Discount Tire Store too and have been getting my new tires from them for past 30+ years. If Costco price is lower, they always match the price for me. And I can get any tires I want, including Radar Dimax AS-8 225/55R19 103V tires matching Walmart's sale price for $85 each. Yes their Hunter tire mounting and balancing machines are better than Costco's, and that's why I choose Discount Tire Store over Costco.

The other good thing getting the new tires from Discount Tire is they provide nationwide service. I took my Honda CR-V to San Jose, and still get tire rotation, balance and repair for free from local America's Tire.

Wife's CX-5 had flat 3 times so far (the last two was within a week), she took the CX-5 to Discount Tire for repair and they didn't charge her even though the tires are factory Toyo's.

But I wouldn't say those tire rotation, balance and repair are actually free. We paid for them which are included in $20 installation fee when we bought the new tires from them.
 
2016 GT now at 118,000 miles. ZERO issues ever. I do oil changes every 5K, changed transmission fluid drain and fill only at 45K, 75K and then 110K. At the 110K mark I changed the transmission filter too. Battery was replaced last summer at around 114K miles. On my second set of brakes. Just did a drain and refill with antifreeze a couple weeks ago.

It has been an extremely reliable car.
 
^^ Boland, got a Q on Transmission Filter - for this you had to drop the pan? And do you feel it was worth it. How did your Tx fluid look at 45 / 75 and 110? This is kind of different interval then what most owners do here which is 5000 miles apart.
 

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